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!';;-' • "A^s.' 



ERALD S. DOORLY 




Glass GStTO . 
Book /^^Z 



m 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING 



Frontispiece 




THE ' MORNING ' IN McMURDO SOUND 



THE VOYAGES 
OF THE ^MORNING' 



-1^^^ BY ,M 



CAPTAIN GERALD S^ DOORLY, R.N.R. 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP 



LONDON 

SMITH, ELDER & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE 

1916 

[411 rightt reservtd.] 



// 









TO MY CHUM 



I 

J 



c 



INTRODUCTION 

When Sir Clements Markham's life was cut 
short by the unhappy accident of Sunday, 
January 30, 1916, he was on the point of 
writing an introduction to the present book. 
The proofs had reached this office on the 
Saturday afternoon, and were to have been 
sent him on the Monday. 

No one else could so appropriately have 
written a word of introduction. Sir Clements 
had a friendly hand for every Polar explorer, 
and his friendship, once given, was true and 
lasting. It was through him that ' The 
Voyages of the Morning ' sees the light to-day, 
just as it was through him that the good ship 
herself was sent to relieve the Discovery. 
To him, as the friend and guide of the 
expedition and all concerned in it, the MS. 
was sent last summer, and on July 19, 1915, 
he wrote to Mr. Reginald Smith : — 

' I have just received a narrative of the two 
voyages of the Morning ; from New Zealand, 
vii 



INTRODUCTION 

The author was one of the junior officers — 
Gerald Doorly. He now commands a steamer 
out there, but he was a boy when he was in 
the Morning. The narrative is pleasantly 
written — first impressions of a keen observer. 
He was on board the Discovery and tells 
how Scott was constantly looking after the 
sick — bringing them tit-bits, &c. The whole 
story is well told. It occurred to me that it 
might form a sort of supplement to Turley's 
admirable book ' \i.e. ' The Voyages of Captain 
Scott,' by Charles Turley]. 

In this sense, at least, he felt that the 
book would not be belated, ' just as a boy's 
book and an uncommonly good one — capital 
book for a prize,' though, owing to the pressure 
of a busy life, it appears long after the events 
it records. The boy is the eternal lover of 
adventure, and in this guise, moreover, lives 
on in many a grown-up. Assuredly there 
will be many to welcome such a record as 
this, for the story of the Morning has never 
been told, and it is worthy of being told to 
complete the tale of Antarctic adventure 
and the cycle of Scott's own travels. 

L. HUXLEY. 

March 191 6. 

viii 



PREFACE 

Many stirring accounts have been written 
during the last few years of voyages to 
the South Polar Regions — stories filled with 
fine geographical and scientific records, won 
by gallant deeds, unselfish devotion and, 
alas, also at the expense of valuable lives. 

The voyages of the Morning as relief 
expedition to the Discovery, 1 902-1 904, have 
hitherto remained unpublished and the object 
of this book is therefore to fill the gap. The 
Morning was commanded by Captain William 
Colbeck, R.N.R. — an able and skilful seaman 
— to whom the greatest credit is due for the 
complete success of the Discovery^s relief 
expedition. He was held in the highest 
esteem by the authorities, and by the late 
Captain Scott, and those who sailed with 
him have none but the happiest memories 
of his splendid leadership. 

ix 



PREFACE 

Commander Evans, C.B., R.N., who gained 
distinction in Captain Scott's last glorious 
but fatal expedition, was an officer on the 
Morning, and it was mainly through his 
affectionate endeavours that I became a 
member of the Relief Expedition. We 
started our sea career together on the train- 
ing ship Worcester on the Thames, and this 
narrative is partly in the nature of a record 
of our many years friendship. 

On the completion of the Morning's 
voyages, Evans was urged by Sir A. Conan 
Doyle to write and publish an account of the 
Relief Expedition, and he asked me to join 
him in this work. Circumstances arose, how- 
ever, which prevented the arrangements being 
then carried out. I have always felt that 
the story of the Relief Expedition should be 
on record, and ten years having now elapsed 
since its conclusion, I have endeavoured to 
tell it before the vividness of the experience 
fades from the memory. 

I last saw Evans in Lyttelton two years 
ago invalided from the Antarctic. He had 
spent the winter in the South, and in the sledg- 
ing season following he was Captain Scott's 

X 



PREFACE 

right-hand man in carrying out the work of 
laying depots and supporting the main party. 
He left Captain Scott in latitude 87° 35' S., 
and was the last man to see the ill-fated 
polar party alive. 

Every generation will send out its ex- 
peditions, journeying to the grim and lonely 
Antarctic. The adventurous men of future 
days will sail the icy seas we sailed upon, 
and gaze with fascinated interest at the 
great white lands, awe-inspiring and silent. 
Far away on the western shores of McMurdo 
Sound, they may see rising from the glacier- 
filled valleys, Mount Evans and Mount Doorly 
— a monument to a close friendship and 
affectionate association of those after whom 
they are named. 

I tender my thanks to Mr. J. D. Morrison, 
chief engineer of the Morning, for supplying 
the photographs illustrating the story, to 
Captain D. Wilson-Barker, R.N.R., for the 
photograph of the Worcester and his interest 
in the welfare of his old cadet, and to the 
Royal Geographical Society for the accom- 
panying map. 

I especially extend my appreciation to 

xi 



PREFACE 

Mr. T. W. Whitson and Mr. Malcolm Ross, 
F.R.G.S., for friendly and valuable advice 
in regard to the publication of this book. 

Last, but not least, I am deeply indebted 
to the late Sir Clements R. Markham, K.C.B., 
F.R.S., for his ever ready assistance and 
generosity. His memory is an inspiration 
to those who knew him. Through his 
kindly interest in, and encouragement to 
us all, he was truly named by the gallant 
Captain Scott : 

* The Father of the Expedition and its 
most constant friend.' 

G. S. D. 

DUNEDIN, 

February 1916. 



Xll 



mA^ 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 



H.M.S. Worcester — My early associations with 
Evans — Ambition to go to sea together — 
Boyish incidents — Obtaining the Worcester's 
two most coveted prizes .... 



CHAPTER II 

Temporary separation — Merchant Service and 
Royal Navy — A happy meeting — Astonishing 
telegram to join Antarctic Relief Expedition 
— First visit to the Morning — Difficulties in 
being appointed — Interviews with Captain 
Colbeck and Sir Clements Markham — Sus- 
pense — Meeting Mulock — Evans pleads our 
cause — Both appointed to Expedition . . 13 



CHAPTER III 

Delight in new work — Preparing for the voyage — 
Endeavours to obtain a piano — Doubtful 
hopes — Piano ultimately supplied by Sir 
Clements — Departure from East India Docks 
— Cheering ships — Sailing down Channel — 
Farewell to England ..... 29 
xiii 



i 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER IV 

PAGE 

Bay of Biscay — Unique experience of a piano — 
Morrison, a lyric writer — Coaling at Madeira — 
Regrettable result of ' chain lightning ' — The 
Equator — Court of Neptune • • • 35 

CHAPTER V 

First taste of bad weather — Run across the 
Southern Ocean — Concerts and nigger minstrel 
entertainment — Sighting New Zealand — A 
beautiful dawn — Arrival at Lyttelton — 
HospitaUty of New Zealanders — Preparing 
for the Antarctic — Sailing day — Humorous 
incident at farewell service — An impressive 
send off . . . . . . -43 

CHAPTER VI 

Southward ho ! — The stormy Southern Ocean — 
First experience of ice — The midnight sun — 
Beauties of Antarctica — Christmas Day — 
New island discovered — Ship strikes an out- 
lying rock — Captain's skilful seamanship — ' 
The ice pack — Seals — Exercise and sport — 
Dangerous gale on edge of pack . . -56 

CHAPTER VII 

First glimpse of polar continent — Cape Adare — 
Plans of Relief Expedition — The humorous 
penguins — ' Southern Cross ' Expedition hut 
— First Discovery record found — Along the 
coast of South Victoria Land — Immense 
tabular bergs — Possession Islands — Coulman 
Island — Impenetrable ice pack — Futile efforts 
to reach Wood Bay — Compass error — Strange 
ski impressions — Desperate attempt to reach 
Franklin Island — Providential escape from 
insetting pack ...... 68 

xiv 



. .aaiiflftdt* .iri«iaiKv 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER VIII 

PAOI 

Difficulties attending our undertaking — Cape 
Crozier and Mount Terror — Depots to be estab- 
lished if no record found — Party at Cape 
Crozier — Discovery located — Delayed a week 
in heavy pack — Mount Erebus — The deadly 
stillness — Beaufort Island — A sailor's venture 
— Subsequent humorous sequel — Exciting 
steam up McMurdo Sound — Sighting Dis- 
covery's masts ...... 80 

CHAPTER IX 

Ten miles of field ice — Experiments with ice-saws 
— First visitors — Return of sledge parties — 
A curious sight — Return of Captain Scott's 
southern party — First visit to the Discovery 
— The winter harbour — Meeting Scott, Wilson, 
and Shackleton — Banquet ! — Captain Scott's 
speech — Astonishing hunger after sledging — 
An incident both humorous and pathetic . 96 

CHAPTER X 

Weather-bound — Sluggish ice field — Differences 
in seasons — Sledging over supplies — A coal 
depot — Sound freezing over — Farewell dinner 
on Morning — Modest requests — Discovery held 
for second winter — Departure of the Morning 
— A sad parting — ' The Ice King ' — Heavy 
new ice — Morning nipped — An anxious night 
— Our narrow escape — Sailing north — Days 
close in — Unpleasant weather — Arrival at 
L)rttelton . . . .111 

CHAPTER XI 

Winter in Lyttelton — Expedition taken over by 
Admiralty — Terra Nova purchased — Inci- 
dents, humorous and otherwise — H.M.S. 

XV 



CONTENTS 



FAGS 



Phoebe assists in Morning's overhaul — Second 
departure from New Zealand — Tasmania — 
Terra Nova at Hobart — A unique tow — Tran- 
shipping stores — Sixty-third anniversary of 
Erebus and Terror at Hobart — ^Hospitality — 
An original dancer — Scuffle with a sailor — 
H.M.S. Royal Arthur supplies gun-cotton — 
Departure from Hobart . . . .125 

CHAPTER XII 

Southward — Terra Nova and Morning in company 
— ^A narrow shave — ^The ice pack again — 
Second Antarctic Christmas — Scott Island 
sighted — ' Dead reckoning ' — Admiralty 
Range — ^Deceptive distances — Fascination of 
the Antarctic — ^A quaint group — Sea-leopard 
hunt — View of South Victoria Land — Franklin 
Island — ^Difference in pack distribution — 
McMurdo Sound — Sighting Discovery — Exten- 
sive sheet of field ice — Hopeless prospects . 141 

CHAPTER XIII 

Captain Scott and Dr. Wilson — ^Astonishment at 
two ships — Doubtful chances of freeing Dis- 
covery — Evans and I at Scott's camp — An 
appetising ' hoosh ' — Charm of an apple — 
Dangerous moving pack — Preparing to 
abandon Discovery — Sledging valuables to 
relief ships — Anxious days — Blasting opera- 
tions — Snow bUndness — Sailing orders issued 
— Depressing thoughts — Gale in Ross Sea — 
Extensive break-up of field — Visit to Discovery 
— Infiuence of swell at Discovery — Strenuous 
blasting — Sudden break-up of ice — Exciting 
rescues — Stirring hours — A struggle for 
priority — ^Dramatic arrival in winter harbour . 153 

xvi 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XIV 

PACB 

Preparations for freeing Discovery — Morning 
adrift — Terrific explosions — Discovery 
released — Thrilling scene — A severe blizzard 
— Discovery driven ashore — Heavy weather — 
Trying experiences — Ships alongside glacier 
snout — Transhipping coal and stores — ' Follow 
me ' — Start of homeward voyage . .173 

CHAPTER XV 

A beautiful Antarctic scene — Ships in company — 
Impressive coast-line — Morning parts com- 
pany — Terra Nova escorts Discovery — 
Boisterous Southern Ocean — Engines break 
down — An anxious month — Reverses making 
Auckland Island — Arrival Port Ross — A 
peaceful contrast — Discovery and Terra Nova 
at rendezvous — Pleasant days — Ballasting 
ship — News of outer world — Departure from 
Auckland Island — A fine slant — Return of 
National Antarctic Expedition . . .188 

CHAPTER XVI 

A great welcome — Evans's wedding — Departure 
for England — Around Cape Horn — The Falk- 
land Islands — Last run of voyage — Depressing 
head winds — Change off Cape Finisterre — 
Running before a gale — The dear Homeland 
— Morning, steamer or sailer ? — Plymouth 
Sound — The end of the cruise , . .201 

CHAPTER XVII 
Morning laid up at Devonport — Our diminutive 
floating home — Dividing the ' spoils ' — Crew 
paid off — Sailors' affection for their ship — The 
last of the Morning — Homeward-bound crew 
— Our unconscious humorist — The Great City 
— Home, sweet home . . . . .210 

xvii 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XVIII 

PACK 

Expedition functions — Captain Scott's lecture at 
Royal Albert Hall — Graceful tribute to Cap- 
tain Colbeck — Reception of Morning's crew 
at Hull — Royal Corinthian Yacht Club's 
dinner — Captain Colbeck 's wedding — The sad 
farewell ....... 217 



XVlll 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



The ' Morning ' in McMurdo Sound 

H.M.S. * Worcester ' 

Morrison's Scheme — 'at once Sur 
PRISING AND Original ' . 

The Author .... 
Evans and England 
Observation Hill 
Part of Scott Island and Haggitt's 
Pillar .... 

An Antarctic Pillar-Box 

Delayed for a Week . 

Captain Colbeck Reading ' Dis- 
covery ' Records found at 
Cape Crozier .... 

' Every Movement was keenly 
Watched ' . . . . 

Approach of our First Visitors . 

Captain Scott Leaving the ' Morn- 
ing '..... 

' Discovery ' in Winter Quarters 

Sledging Gear and Supplies to 
' Discovery ' . 

Coal Depot on Glacier Tongue . 

xix 



Frontispiece 
Facing page 8 

36 
42 

44 
59 

59 

74 

74 

84 

98 

98 

104 
104 

112 
112 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Shackleton on Arrival at Lyttel- 

TON. . . . . . Facing page 126 

' England's Downfall ' . . „ 134 

Captain Scott and Captain Colbeck ,, 154 

Captain Scott's Tent, Cape Royds ,, 158 

Arrival of Mail from ' Discovery ' ,, 158 

An Occasional Incident — Adrift 

ON THE Sea Ice ... „ 168 

MUSIC 
Southward .... Between pages 38, 39 
The Ice King . . . ,, 116, 117 

MAP 

Showing Track of the S.Y. 

' Morning ' . . . . At end of text 



XX 



THE VOYAGES 
OF THE 'MORNING' 



CHAPTER I 

H.M.S. Worcester — My early associations with Evans 
— Ambition to go to sea together — Boyish incidents 
— Obtaining the Worcester's two most coveted 
prizes. 

When passing up or down the Thames be- 
tween Erith and Gravesend, one cannot help 
noticing a number of old wooden fighting ships 
moored on each side of the river. A century 
ago these were the pride of the British Navy, 
and upheld the glory of the nation in many 
conflicts and on many seas. Now they are 
spending a peaceful old age as training-vessels 
for the British youth of every class. 

Off Greenhithe lies the Arethusa, used as a 
training-ship for poor boys of good conduct. 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

These are generally drafted into the Royal 
Navy and become seamen. 

About a mile distant, and moored off the 
historic Ingress Abbey, lies that excellent 
training-ship * for young gentlemen de- 
sirous of becoming officers in the Mer- 
cantile Marine,' known as the Incorporated 
Thames Nautical Training College, H.M.S. 
Worcester. 

The Worcester and her complement, the 
Conway, on the Mersey, during their many 
years of existence as training-vessels, have 
turned out some of the finest men; and in 
almost every corner of the globe 'old Wor- 
cester s' and 'old Conways' are to be found as 
captains of great liners, officers of ships of all 
descriptions, while not a few hold prominent 
shore appointments in various parts of the 
world. A certain percentage have also passed 
into the Royal Navy through the Admiralty 
granting several nominations from these ships 
annually. 

Boys from all parts of the world have been 
trained on the Worcester, hailing not only from 
the British Possessions, but from many foreign 
countries as well, so that it is not to be won- 



ON THE ' WORCESTER ' 

dered at that old boys are to be found in the 
most unexpected places. 

A number of years ago now, two boys — both 
under fifteen years of age — joined the Worcester 
as cadets within a few months of each other. 
One, the son of a barrister practising in Lon- 
don, had joined the ship for the purpose of 
passing into the Royal Navy. The other was 
the son of a clergyman, and hailed from Trini- 
dad, in the British West Indies. The former 
was Evans, affectionately known as ' Teddie,' 
and the latter was the writer of these notes. 
Coming as we did from opposite corners of 
the world, so to speak, we met as strangers 
knowing nothing of each other; but it hap- 
pened that we were placed in the same ' top ' 
(or section), and slept in hammocks slung 
next to one another. Boys thrown together 
in such a way soon get to know each other 
favourably or otherwise. In the course of 
a very few weeks we became inseparable 
chums, and, as boys do, swore eternal friend- 
ship. My memory takes me back to the 
many happy times we spent in each other's 
company. During holidays we frequently ex- 
changed visits, and our boyish escapades were 

4 B a 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

quite in keeping with a certain spirit of ad- 
venture which, is so dear to most boys, and 
particularly so to the budding sailor, who 
holds ever before him the ideal of endeavouring 
to live up to the great and glorious traditions 
of the sea. 

Evans was a sturdily-built boy, heavier, 
but a trifle shorter than myself, and was a 
splendid muscular specimen, whilst I belonged 
to that type known as wiry. We used to put 
in many a half-hour at horse-play, which, 
speaking for myself, was very hard work. 
Our wrestling bouts were terrific struggles, and 
although I was frequently the loser, I think 
that Evans will admit that for a light-weight 
I put up a very good fight, and made him 
exercise his muscles to their utmost. We ran 
about equally well, and have gone for miles 
together, each, no doubt, not caring to give 
in to the other. We were also well up in 
gymnastic and athletic feats. 

I remember on a holiday once riding a 
tandem bicycle with him through some of 
the busiest thoroughfares in London, ob- 
livious of the fact that he had never been 
on a bicycle before. He stated that he 

4 



BOYHOOD^S ADVENTURES 

would supply all the ' horse-power ' necessary 
if I did the more scientific work of steering 
and ringing the bell. We rode for miles, 
and, marvellous to relate, escaped accident. 

In boyish fashion we often competed in 
odd feats of endurance. One wet evening, 
after a performance at the Gaiety Theatre, 
there was the usual rush and scramble for 
'busses. Evans's parents were with us, and 
they succeeded, after several reverses, in 
getting standing room only. As the stream 
of packed 'busses rolling by offered little 
prospect for us, we decided to run home. 
I am not sure how far it is from the Strand 
to Regent's Park, but in the bleak, muddy 
night it seemed quite a long way. We stuck 
to the game, overtook the 'bus, and had 
a cheerful fire going and supper ready to 
greet the others. 

Evans stayed with me one night. We 
arrived late, and found that the family had 
gone to bed and had locked us out. We 
did what any active boys would do, I suppose, 
in like circumstances. By standing on his 
shoulders I wriggled through a dense creeper, 
shinned up a drain-pipe, and reached the 

5 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' 

bedroom window. My brother awakened 
with a start, but, being used to our playful 
ways, he turned over with a grunt and was 
soon snoring again. I let Evans in respectably 
by the front door, but, in spite of stealth, 
the stairs creaked horribly. 

We were at Margate one Easter, and 
went out for a pull on a bitterly cold day. 
To my surprise, when we were some distance 
from the shore, Evans suggested a swim. 
I shuddered at the thought, but I couldn't 
be outdone by my chum. We stripped 
and dived in. It was awful ; Evans 
was enthusiastic over its * loveliness ' ; I 
agreed with a gasp, but was never more 
thankful than when we were dressed and, 
with chattering teeth, were pulling back to 
the pier. 

We made a boat excursion one day from 
Ramsgate to the Sandwich River, a few 
miles away. Evans' mother and brothers 
accompanied us. Evans and I considered 
ourselves expert seamen, but we had a lot 
to learn. We ran the boat into a creek 
off the main stream, and, as it was raining, 
we improvised a tent with oars and sail. 

6 



STRANDED ON THE EBB 

There was nothing to do but to dig into the 
provisions. We became so engrossed in this 
pleasure that the tide gradually ebbed away 
and left us stranded in a slough of mud : 
* Women and children first,' of course ; in a 
few moments feet were bared, and, sinking 
to the knees in mud, we gallantly landed 
the lady of the party. After some bargain- 
ing at an adjacent inn, we obtained a trap, 
in which she was ignominiously despatched 
in the approaching night to Ramsgate. It 
was impossible to move the boat from the 
muddy bed, so we decided to ' stand by ' 
and keep ' watch and watch ' through the 
gloomy night — for what reason I cannot 
remember now. We had a hazy idea, I 
think, that when a vessel was stranded it 
was necessary for the crew to suffer certain 
hardships and discomforts. Fortunately for 
us some coast-guardsmen happened to pass by 
early in the evening. When we explained our 
predicament they laughed good-humouredly 
and told us to go home. They offered to 
look after the boat when the tide made enough 
to refloat her. As our enthusiasm had been 
on the wane, we gladly accepted their assist- 

7 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

ance, and being cold and wet, we did a five- 
mile non-stop run home. 

We found the boat afloat next morning, 
and with pangs of anxiety concerning the 
owner's feelings, we sneaked back with humilia- 
tion to Ramsgate. An unexpected welcome 
awaited us. Another Worcester boy — possessed 
of an extraordinarily inventive mind — was 
on the pier surrounded by a crowd of trippers. 
Quite unusual interest seemed to be centred 
in our arrival at the steps. We soon heard 
that this imaginative wag had spread a yarn 
that a battleship was wrecked in the Downs, 
and that we were alleged to be two midship- 
men who had effected a daring escape ! 
Our Worcester uniforms lent the necessary 
colour to this absurd story. 

Among the many quaint customs on 
the Worcester, is a recreation known as 
* slewing,' which comprises walking round 
and round the upper or main decks, arm in 
arm with any particular friend during ' stand 
easy ' times. It was amusing to see, perhaps, 
150 boys walking round and round the decks 
in this fashion in twos chiefly, but occasion- 
ally in threes. There was always a proper 

8 



' SLEWING ' 

decorum to be adhered to before ' slewing,' 
very similar to requesting the pleasure of a 
dance in a ballroom. It was not conducted 
quite as politely, perhaps, though the ' Come 
and slew ' produced a more or less similar 
effect. 

Needless to say, Evans and I put in many 
an hour's ' slewing ' during our terms on 
the ship, and, as may be imagined, all our 
hopes and ideals were discussed, and it 
can safely be stated that no two boys ever 
knew or understood each other better than 
we did. At one period, our ambition was 
to go to sea together, and we speculated as 
to its likelihood. One arrangement was that 
if he failed to pass into the Navy, we should 
apprentice ourselves to some sailing-ship 
firm ; but much as I should have appreciated 
this, I always felt that his heart was set upon 
the Navy, and consequently encouraged him 
in that direction. 

I recall to mind most vividly one evening 
towards the end of our stay on the Wor- 
cester, just before prayers and ' pipe down ' 
(turn into hammocks). We were ' slewing ' 
together as usual. Evans, who was working 

9 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

hard, and doing many extra hours for the 
Naval Examination, seemed rather de- 
spondent. He was continually harping on 
the subject of the examination and its con- 
sequent results — dreading failure. There were 
seven or eight other Worcester boys to compete 
with him, and a similar number from the 
Conway, I believe, out of whom perhaps only 
the first two or first three would get through. 
I felt in my own mind that Evans was good 
enough for any of them. The hard work 
and long hours had doubtless caused him 
fatigue and anxiety. I cheered him up as 
much as I was able, and assured him that 
I had confidence in him and felt certain 
that he would pull through swimmingly. 

Now, at the after end of the main deck 
on the Worcester are two large panels under 
glass, one on either side. One contains the 
Ten Commandments printed in gold lettering 
on a black background, and the other has, 
also printed in gold, the list of the cadets 
who have obtained the Worcester's two most 
coveted prizes since the establishment of 
the ship as a training vessel. These are 
the two prizes granted by Her late Majesty 

10 



LINKED NAMES 

Queen Victoria, and continued by the late 
King Edward, and by King George. The 
first is the Queen's Gold Medal, awarded 
annually to the boy who shows qualifications 
likely to become the finest sailor, decided 
by a ballot of the cadets ; and the second 
is the cadetship into the Royal Navy. The 
two prizes are regarded as ideals, and I 
don't suppose there has been a boy who has 
passed through the Worcester who has not 
known, almost by heart, the printed regula- 
tions on this board, and the names of the 
successful prize-winners, printed in gold, as 
far back as 1869. 

At each turn of the deck we made on 
this evening, these printed records confronted 
us, and Evans, after gazing at the prize 
board for some moments, suddenly remarked : 
' I wonder if my name will ever be printed 
there.' I replied that I considered it quite 
likely, whereupon he squeezed my arm and 
said, rather impulsively, ' Dear old chap, 
I'll wager that if mine is put there, yours will 
be printed on the opposite side.' This com- 
pliment came as a wonderful surprise to me, 
as I had never in my wildest hopes ever 

II 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

thought that I should have the remotest 
chance of being selected even to be voted 
for, or against, by my shipmates. Evans 
had no idea either; how could he ? But 
he felt that it would be a fitting conclusion 
to our career on the dear old Worcester. 

A month or two passed, and the results 
of the Naval Examination being published, 
it was seen that Evans had passed very 
creditably first, above all competitors from 
both ships. A few more months passed, 
and I was voted ' Queen's Gold Medallist.' 
Evans was indeed prophetic : our names 
are printed in gold abreast each other on 
that coveted scroll of fame. It was an 
impressive end to our training-ship days, 
and in keeping with our close friendship. 



12 



CHAPTER II 

Temporary separation — Merchant Service and Royal 
Navy — A happy meeting — Astonishing telegram 
to join Antarctic Relief Expedition — First visit 
to the Morning — Difficulties in being appointed — 
Interviews with Captain Colbeck and Sir Clements 
Markham — Suspense — Meeting Mulock — Evans 
pleads our cause — Both appointed to Expedition. 

As the steam vessel has largely superseded 
the now almost obsolete sailing ship, few 
are the openings left for sailors to pick up a 
satisfactory freight. The chief line of business 
left to sailing ships appears to be carrying 
coal from West of England ports to the West 
Coast of South America, and, by way of 
securing return cargo, loading nitrate of 
soda on the Chilian coast, or proceeding 
in ballast to the Western States of America 
for wheat. 

During my apprenticeship ports on the 
West Coast of the two Americas were visited, 
and it was at Antofogasta in Chili, while I 

13 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

was engaged in the dirty but unavoidable 
occupation of shovelling coal> that a letter 
was thrown to me in the hold. It bore a 
Maltese stamp and postmark, and the writing 
was unmistakably that of Evans. We were 
fast friends, yet what a contrast was there 
in our callings ! We were both becoming 
seamen, but by very different methods. 

At this time Evans was a midshipman 
on a first-class cruiser in the Mediterranean 
Squadron. His letter was not written in a 
cheerful strain ; he complained of being 
unhappy and discontented, and that ' for 
two pins I'd chuck the Navy, and apprentice 
myself with you.* Now, I could not claim 
much worldly knowledge, and comparatively 
little of the sea, but it was quite clear to 
me that whatever Evans's life might be, it 
surely was not as unpleasant as mine. Reflect 
upon it as I would, I could not understand 
how he could willingly desire to exchange 
a position in the service of his country for 
the back-aching, rough-and-tumble existence 
that I was carrying on. 

As perhaps he did not realise the nature 
of my life as well as I could picture his, I 

H 



A SUFFERING MIDSHIPMAN 

wrote off immediately urging him to stay 
where he was, and not for a minute to entertain 
such a foolish idea. I learned later on that 
Evans was just passing through that juvenile 
stage in the Navy where one has to be sub- 
servient to the officer told off to keep the 
middies up to the mark, and the officer in 
question was evidently tactless and generally 
unpopular with the midshipmen. Evans, 
being physically the officer's superior, strongly 
resented his alleged bullying, and would 
willingly have thrashed him were it not that 
such insubordination would most probably 
result in dismissal from the service. 

Whether my letter played any part in 
influencing the irate midshipman or not, 
I never really enquired ; suffice it to say 
that he did not resign from the Navy, and 
the next time I heard of him he had become 
the life and soul of his ship, and was con- 
sidered one of the smartest and most popular 
midshipmen on the station. 

After the fashion of boys, we kept in touch 
with each other by corresponding about once 
a year ; but we frequently heard of each other. 
Whilst in San Francisco on one occasion, I 

15 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

heard with regret that poor Evans had been 
dangerously ill with fever, and that, after 
being laid up at Malta until convalescent, he 
was invalided home. Except that I knew 
of his subsequent recovery, I lost track of 
him for a brief period. 

Several years had now passed, and at the 
termination of one voyage I remained on 
shore in order to undergo some training in 
the Royal Naval Reserve on the drill ship 
H.M.S. President, lying in the West India 
Docks, London. I had received a nomination 
as midshipman in the R.N.R. on leaving the 
Worcester. 

Residing at that time near Blackheath, I 
travelled to and fro daily to drill. On return- 
ing from drill one afternoon, just as my train 
was drawing up at London Bridge station, 
I noticed another train moving out. My sur- 
prise and delight knew no bounds when I 
suddenly caught sight of my old pal waving 
frantically out of the carriage window of the 
departing train. 

There was no means of communication, 
but he pointed wildly to the superscription 
* Greenwich ' on his train, indicative of his 
i6 



REUNION 

whereabouts. I formulated a plan for the 
next day, and after drill returned home via 
Greenwich, and called at the R.N. College. 

Our reunion was emphasised by a warm 
embrace. There was so much to tell that it 
was difficult to know where or how to begin. 
We went to his room, which he proudly in- 
formed me was a post captain's. He had 
been rather run down in health, and having 
assured the Captain of the College that the 
Sub-Lieutenant's quarters were damp and 
draughty, he was accordingly allotted this 
luxurious apartment. 

We arranged to meet ' under the clock ' at 
Charing Cross that evening, and from 7.30 p.m. 
until 10.30. P.M. we dined, or, more correctly, 
talked, with intervals for food and drink, at a 
restaurant in the vicinity of Leicester Square, 
of which Evans was an occasional patron. A 
lady and gentleman were sitting on the oppo- 
site side of our table when we arrived, sipping 
their coffee and liqueurs, and it was evident 
that our breezy and animated conversation 
must have completely absorbed their attention, 
because they didn't leave until we did, and 
had consumed, for appearance's sake presum- 

17 c 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' 

ably, innumerable cups of coffee and glasses 
of liqueurs. 

We met occasionally after this. Evans 
was working for his lieutenant's examination, 
and a great deal of his time was occupied in 
study. Before I went off to sea again he had 
passed the first two sections of his examina- 
tion, obtaining a ' one ' in each. 

I was now a junior officer in the P. & O. 
S. N. Co., and had been appointed to a trans- 
port vessel, temporarily fitted and employed 
as a hospital ship during the South African 
War. The voyages were from Southampton 
to the Cape, conveying detachments of troops 
to the Front, and returning with a pathetic 
human freight of sick and wounded soldiers. 
Arriving at Southampton one voyage, about 
the middle of June 1902, a great surprise 
awaited me. 

Amongst my letters was a telegram from 
my friend Evans, containing the astonishing 
query : ' Would you care join Antarctic Re- 
lief Expedition ? Ship Morning sailing early 
July. Friends quite agreeable. Reply at 
once or place will be filled.' 

I went to my cabin to consider this most 
18 



FIRST SIGHT OF THE ' MORNING ' 

unexpected and almost startling proposal. 
Why a relief expedition ? To relieve whom ? 
It dawned upon me that it must necessarily 
be connected with the Discovery Expedition, 
which had sailed twelve months before for 
the Antarctic. But what did I know of such 
things ? Was I suitable for such an under- 
taking ? Then it suddenly flashed across my 
mind that by joining this Expedition the 
greatest wish of our lives would be gratified. 
Evans and I would at last sail in the same 
ship, unusual and extraordinary though that 
ship and voyage might be. 

My mind was soon made up, and, obtain- 
ing leave from the captain, I proceeded to 
London. My thoughts and feelings on the 
subject were naturally somewhat mixed, 
as I was working more or less in the dark ; 
the only satisfaction I seemed to feel was 
that, as Evans was there, all must be well. 

Proceeding directly to the East India 
Docks, I found after a little search and 
enquiry the object of my quest, and I have 
to confess to a deep sense of disappointment. 

The ship I had just left at Southampton 
was a P. & 0. liner of some pretensions ; 

19 C2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

the eye was accustomed to such dimensions ; 
but the object I now gazed upon seemed so 
ridiculously insignificant that for a moment I 
wondered if there hadn't been some mistake. 
It was only too true, however, that this 
small barque-rigged vessel of 290 tons, with 
a quaint little yellow funnel in the after-end, 
and a strange-looking tub at the mainmast- 
head, was the steam yacht Morning, in the 
course of preparation for her adventurous 
voyages. 

As there was no visible sign of life about 
the ship, it appeared to me that my hurried 
journey to the docks had been unnecessary, 
and I was deliberating as to my next move, 
when up popped my friend's head from the 
one absurd little hatch the Morning possessed, 
and seeing me he gave vent to an outburst 
of joy with his * Hello, Jose ' (a fancy term 
of endearment). * Welcome to the Dread- 
nought.' 

I wondered at the zeal and enterprise 
of my old chum. About three months 
previously he was going through the torpedo 
and gunnery course at Whale Island, when 
one day, during ' stand easy,' he chanced 

20 



A THIRD OFFICER WANTED 

to read in a daily paper that the Arctic 
whaler Morning had been purchased from a 
Norwegian firm in Tonsberg, and after over- 
hauling and equipping her in London, it 
had been decided that she would sail for 
the South Polar regions as a relief ship to 
the Discovery. The energetic Evans pro- 
ceeded at once to London and personally- 
interviewed Sir Clements Markham, then 
the President of the R.G.S., with a view 
to joining the Expedition. He was intro- 
duced to the captain, who recommended him 
there and then as second executive officer. 
His good physical appearance, his frank and 
zealous manner, and his enterprising offer 
to man the ship with blue-jackets from 
Portsmouth if necessary, no doubt appealed 
very strongly to the organisers. 

As the time drew on, and it was neces- 
sary to consider the appointment of a third 
executive officer, Evans, being by this time 
much thought of by the authorities, suggested 
emphatically that they could not do better 
than appoint me to the position ! 

This, as will have been seen, was done 
totally without my knowledge ; but knowing 

21 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

me as he did, and remembering our early- 
desire to go to sea together, he was positive 
that I would not only accept the position, 
but would be a keen and useful officer to 
the Expedition. This was indeed the acme 
of friendship. There were already over 
fifty applicants for the position, but by 
the time I arrived on the scene, through 
Evans's enterprise and affection, these had 
been reduced to a possible two, of whom I 
was one. The other applicant was a young 
naval officer, Mulock, who had surveying 
experience amongst his recommendations, 
and was altogether on a better footing than 
I was for the appointment. 

Evans was perplexed as to how the 
decision would go, for although extremely 
-keen for me to join, he was nevertheless 
generously disposed toward his brother 
officer, who was in all respects equally suit- 
able, and by his credentials appeared to be 
even better qualified than I was. 

I met Captain Colbeck on board. Though 
quite a young man, he impressed me as 
being the ideal type of commander; and, 
as I subsequently learnt, he had already 

22 



SIR CLEMENTS MARKHAM 

experienced an Antarctic voyage, being one 
of the first party to spend a winter in the 
frozen south. He explained that Evans's 
telegram to me was rather premature, there 
being much difficulty in deciding on the 
officer to be appointed ; but in spite of this, 
he held out a hope for me, and even went 
so far as to describe the nature of my 
duties, in the event of my being appointed. 
This sounded cheerful and encouraging, but 
there was nevertheless the uncertainty, 
which gave rise to conflicting emotions. He 
promised to see Sir Clements on my behalf 
that evening. 

Returning to town in this unsettled 
frame of mind, I decided to anticipate the 
captain, and called personally on Sir Clements. 
As a boy on the Worcester I remembered 
Sir Clements coming on board occasionally 
during the winter terms and delivering 
very interesting lectures to the cadets on 
Arctic exploration. One of our old boys 
was at that time in the Arctic, with the 
Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition, and Sir 
Clements himself had been, as a young naval 
officer, on one of the search expeditions 

23 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

to the Arctic in quest of the fatal Franklin 
Expedition. 

Somehow I felt that in Sir Clements 
I should find a friend, and I knew that he 
took an interest in the welfare of Worcester 
boys. The interview could not have been 
more pleasant, although no decision was 
arrived at regarding my appointment. 

I was astonished to learn how much he 
knew of me and my record, and it was quite 
clear that my good chum had painted me 
in the most favourable colours. The difficulty 
of making a selection from so many apparently 
excellent men was pointed out, but I left 
convinced that my only rival was the young 
naval officer before mentioned. I was also 
informed that the decision would be conveyed 
to me in a few days' time. 

Now, although Sir Clements had com- 
municated with the P. & O. Company 
about granting me the necessary leave should 
I be appointed to the Relief Expedition, 
I found on calling at the Company's office 
that I had been promoted, and appointed 
to a ship sailing in a few days for Bombay. 
On enquiring as to their knowledge of my 

H 



SUSPENSE 

joining the Expedition, it was stated that 
such communication had been received some 
time before, but as no information on the 
matter was forthcoming from me, it was 
taken for granted that I had either been 
unsuccessful or had decided not to go, and 
had been promoted in the ordinary course 
of events. 

As a matter of fact, as I had only that 
very day known of the possibility of going 
in an expedition, I could hardly have com- 
municated earlier. Seeing that my chances 
were favourable, I applied for, and was 
granted, the necessary leave. This was 
perhaps what one might term a sporting 
stroke on my part, but had I sailed away 
to Bombay my even doubtful chance would 
have been lost. 

One long anxious week passed by, and 
no information was forthcoming. The sus- 
pense was trying, for the fascination of the 
adventure was gripping me, and I was in 
that frame of mind that to join the Ex- 
pedition was my greatest ambition, even 
were I to serve in any subordinate position. 

Saturday arrived, and I could contain 

25 



. THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

myself no longer. To wait over the week- 
end seemed an eternity. Hiring a bicycle, 
I rode with all haste through Blackheath 
and Greenwich, and finding a short route 
through the Blackwall tunnel, soon arrived 
at the Morning. A scene of much activity 
now centred in the little ship ; running 
rigging was being rove off, sails bent, accom- 
modation fittings placed, extra houses and 
lockers being constructed, and dray-loads 
of stores and gear were continually arriving 
and being stowed away expeditiously. 

Evans was in the thick of it, and I longed 
to be giving him a helping hand. I had hoped 
that he would be able to tell me the best, or 
worst, regarding myself, but he knew nothing. 
I explained everything that I had done in the 
matter, and there did not seem to be anything 
more to do. 

Whilst chatting on the little poop-deck, 
Evans, who was looking towards the dock 
gates, suddenly exclaimed, ' Well, here's the 
other man, Jose,' and in a few minutes my rival 
stepped on board. Evans introduced us, and 
although we assumed a nonchalant attitude, 
each had heard of the other. Mulock stated 

26 



TAKE BOTH! 

that although he had not heard definitely, he 
was given to understand that he would be 
appointed, and that his commission was on 
board. 

My chagrin may be imagined. Here was 
I within an ace of being accepted to sail with 
my best friend, and yet it certainly appeared 
as though all my fond hopes and air castles 
were to be ruthlessly demolished at the 
eleventh hour. 

The position was discussed thoroughly, and 
each displayed such a keenness to go in the 
ship that Evans considered it pertinent to 
offer the suggestion that both of us be ap- 
pointed. This was characteristic of him — 
somewhat impulsive and wholly original — but 
I did not for a moment entertain in my mind 
any likelihood of this scheme taking effect, 
for the reason that the Expedition funds were 
low, and every extra man must, of necessity, 
be an additional expense. Evans, however, 
was optimistic, and having invited us to his 
half-built cabin, he presented us with some 
liquid in a tin pannikin, out of which we drank 
in turns success to the Antarctic Relief 
Expedition. 

27 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING* 

This rite being duly performed, he stated 
that he himself would plead our cause to Sir 
Clements that very day, and as an after- 
thought, before leaving, in the event of both 
being appointed, he tossed a coin for the re- 
spective ranks of third and fourth executive, 
which fell favourably to me. 

More or less jubilant, I returned home, 
but looking at the bare facts fairly, my chance 
of success did not seem hopeful. Just before 
turning in that night a telegram arrived 
for me. It read : * Cheer up ; both going. 
— Teddie.' 



28 



CHAPTER III 

Delight in new work — Preparing for the voyage — 
Endeavours to obtain a piano — Doubtful hopes 
— Piano ultimately supplied by Sir Clements — 
Departure from East India Docks — Cheering ships 
— Sailing down Channel — Farewell to England. 

It is difficult to describe exactly one's feelings 
when some deep sorrow or great joy suddenly 
overtakes one, and the joyous impression made 
by that telegram is hard for me adequately to 
express. For a considerable time I had been 
living in a perplexing state of doubt — the last 
few days, indeed, had been almost unbearable 
— and now, literally at the eleventh hour, 
came this very gratifying information. 

How it came about I did not at the time 
stop to consider ; the main fact was that all 
anxieties and doubts were dispelled, and I 
was now to join the Expedition. Through 
it all, however, was the feeling of a deeper 
esteem for my good chum, without whom 

29 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ^MORNING' 

my appointment could hardly have been 
secured. 

My duties commenced at once, and the 
work was absorbingly interesting. Evans and 
I were boys again, extremely happy, and the 
more we laughed and jested, the harder we 
worked. It was an ideal experience. We 
lunched together each day at a neighbouring 
hotel, and it was during these pleasant re- 
treats that I learned the nature and extent 
of our undertaking. Evans was thoroughly 
conversant with the minutest details of the 
programme mapped out for our voyages, and 
in a very short time I was well posted in the 
intricacies of the proposed work of the Relief 
Expedition. 

The last week was naturally a very busy 
one, the days being fully occupied, and the 
evenings devoted to many farewell functions 
which were especially entertaining and inter- 
esting. The day before sailing the equipping 
was practically completed, the only noticeable 
omission being a piano for the ward-room. 
There are some who would perhaps regard 
this item as an unnecessary luxury, but I can 
assure them that it is quite an important ad- 

30 



THE GIFT OF A PIANO 

junct, in that it undoubtedly tends to improve 
the feeling of camaraderie, so essential in an 
undertaking of this nature, and it is acknow- 
ledged that most sailors are true lovers of 
music. As a piano was not included in the 
specifications, Evans and I conferred as to a 
means of obtaining one. Some ladies visiting 
the ship one afternoon remarked on this de- 
ficiency, and the situation being explained 
(which, by the way, we never forgot to mention 
to any likely donor), one girl, carried away 
with enthusiasm, said that there was a spare 
piano at her home which she thought we could 
have. This generosity was quite touching, 
but we subsequently heard that when the 
suggestion was proffered, this well-meaning 
lady's parents politely but firmly refused to 
entertain any such extraordinary idea ! As 
the time drew on it seemed that our hopes in 
this direction were doomed to disappointment, 
until, the evening before departure, Evans 
volunteered, as a last resource, to approach 
Sir Clements on the matter. The night was 
far advanced when he arrived at Eccleston 
Square — so far, indeed, that Sir Clements was 
in the act of going to bed. A call at this late 

31 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' 

hour naturally caused surprise, and Evans, 
with profuse apology, explained the object of 
his nocturnal visit. As a friend in need 
Sir Clements was pre-eminent, and, realising 
how keen we really were, he arranged to present 
us with his own spare piano. This kind and 
generous action was in keeping with the whole- 
hearted interest he always displayed in the 
welfare and comfort of each member of the 
Expedition. 

Early next morning a van was dispatched 
to convey the piano to the docks, but the day 
wore on and no piano arrived. Owing to a 
mistake in the address, or the stupidity of the 
driver, no van arrived at Sir Clements', and 
there was now no time for it to reach the docks 
before the ship sailed. Here, indeed, was a 
sad disappointment for us, and with small 
comfort and less eifect, we hurled grave 
epithets at that carter's ancestry far back 
into the dark ages. 

A crowd had now gathered on the dock 
side, a bravery of bunting streamed from a 
hundred masts, the last fond farewells had 
been taken, cheers were ringing, and whistles 
were tooting their messages of * Good luck ' and 

32 



THE START 

* Bon voyage,^ ' Stand by ' had rung, and the 
picked crew were assembling at their allotted 
stations, when a commotion in the crowd,which 
gave way, permitted a van to range hurriedly 
alongside with the jangling of harness and 
panting of horses. In a trice the back was 
thrown open, a piano revealed, and with many 
willing hands, this last item in the Morning's 
equipment was unceremoniously dragged on 
board. This was Sir Clements' farewell kind- 
ness. On learning that there was no hope of 
conveying his piano in time, he had despatched 
a servant with all haste towards the docks to 
purchase one at the nearest piano establishment, 
and this prompt and kindly action enabled 
the Morning to sail complete in every detail. 
The day was not attractive as far as the 
weather was concerned, but the good cheer 
extended from every quarter was impressive. 
Steamer after steamer passed by, tooting their 
whistles and dipping their ensigns. Each 
training-ship sent up a ringing cheer as we 
passed, and the lusty cheering that greeted 
us as we approached the old Worcester was 
not likely to be forgotten. It was a proud 
moment for Evans and myself. 

33 D 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

It is true that the sailing barges over- 
hauled and occasionally passed us during our 
progress down the river, but what of that ? 
They could not face the tempests of oceans, 
nor the rigours of Antarctica ! 

It is true also that the tide turning caused 
us to come to anchor off Gravesend, and next 
day, owing to a headwind, it was found ad- 
vantageous to anchor again off Deal. But 
our enthusiasm enabled us to overlook such 
drawbacks. 

A fresh fair breeze making, we eventually 
got under way, and setting the brand new suit 
of sails for the first time,the little ship bowled 
merrily down Channel, while we cheered and 
exchanged signals of good luck with ships of 
all nations. It was good to be alive ! 

Rounding to off Start Point, our pilot and 
the few good friends who had accompanied 
us thus far bade us a hearty farewell, the last 
cheers were given, and the Morning, heading 
for the open sea, sailed away into the unknown 
future. 



34 



CHAPTER IV 

Bay of Biscay — Unique experience of a piano — Morrison, 
a lyric writer — Coaling at Madeira — Regrettable 
result of ' chain lightning ' — The Equator — Court: 
of Neptune. 

The Bay of Biscay enjoys a bad reputation, 
storms are of frequent occurrence, but for us 
it had no terrors, having donned its Sunday 
apparel of calm, sunny, and peaceful weather. 
Owing to the more important work of getting 
everything ship-shape during these early days, 
the piano had been left in undignified associa- 
tion with various marine stores, ice-picks, and 
sledging equipment. Its turn of recognition, 
however, duly arrived, and an attempt was 
made to transfer this valuable asset to its 
permanent and more suitable environment. 
I use the word 'attempt,' because it was soon 
discovered, to our utter perplexity, that neither 
door leading down to the ward-room was wide 
enough to permit of its passage. Here was 

35 D2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

an obstacle which demanded much ingenuity 
to overcome. It was inconceivable to think 
that after all the carefully wrought schemes 
to procure this useful and ornamental article 
for the ward-room, it would possibly have to 
spend its days in the obscurity of the sail 
locker on deck. 

The absurdity of our dilemma caused us, 
for a moment, to laugh outright. We were 
' up against ' a proposition, however, which 
even the resourcefulness of the ' handy man ' 
failed to solve. 

Leaving the piano on deck, we went below 
to lunch, during which every practicable (and 
impracticable) suggestion was put forward to 
overcome the difficulty, but to no avail. It 
was not until after the meal that Morrison, the 
chief engineer, who had remained unusually 
reticent over the matter, submitted a scheme 
which was at once surprising and original. 
Rather apologetically, he assured us that he 
was no musician, but after carefully examin- 
ing the inner construction and mechanism of 
the piano, he could not see that the instru- 
ment would suffer any material detriment by 
being cut in half ! 

36 



THE PIANO DISSECTED 

This astonishing suggestion was received 
with wonder and incredulity, but as there 
seemed to be no other feasible solution, and 
as we had already begun to regard our chief 
engineer not only as a shrewd, but as an ex- 
tremely practical and capable member, we 
eventually approved of his idea, and with much 
interest, witnessed his unique demonstration. 

The keys were easily unshipped, and each 
side of the key-board was carefully sawn 
through — the cook's meat-saw proving the 
most useful implement by reason of its ser- 
viceable shape and general greasiness. The 
key-board was now detached from the main 
body of the piano, the parts passed down to 
the ward-room, and with the aid of some glue 
and a few wooden dowls, the key-board was 
once again neatly secured, the keys re-shipped, 
and, to celebrate the great achievement, a 
concert with the full crew was held that even- 
ing. That piano was a blessing not to be over- 
estimated, and we often wondered how we 
should ever have done without it. On Satur- 
day nights in fine weather concerts were held 
for the crew, hymns were sung on Sunday 
evenings, and many a sweet memory of home 

37 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

and loved ones was awakened by a hundred 
familiar melodies. 

The chief engineer, among many other ac- 
complishments, proved to be a writer of more 
or less topical verses. Being of a musical turn, 
I arranged music for these, and my modest 
efforts at composition were, at any rate, a 
source of much pleasure to me. When one 
of these songs was to be inflicted upon the 
company, Evans always volunteered to give 
it what he termed * a steam trial ' by singing 
it, and, if the trial were successful, the song 
was allowed the freedom of the ship. 

The following is the first song written, and 
may be of interest : — 

SOUTHWARD. 

As I fly on the wings of the Morning o'er the sunny 

tropic seas, 
When laughing waves dance round the ship and 

there's love in the song of the breeze, 
At night on deck, 'neath the starlit sky, when only 

the gods can hear, 
I think of a girl in the far Northland, and I wish 

that my love were near, 
And wish that my love were near me now, when 

only the gods can see. 
Lazily loving the hours away on the sunlit summer sea. 

38 



I As I ri.t ON THE K/INM OF THC f^aHMlHi', O'eH THt SON'NY XRO-PrC 

1 As I FLY WITH THE WiNCS OF THE "MoRNiNt, Oeh The. CoLD J>ARK IC£-3ou(MO 




J"J | J J ^ J J^. J J J-3' I 



:^=a 



SCAS 
SEAS 



WHEN LAOCHINt WAVES 3>ANCe "RoUMD THE SHIP AnDTHEHE'S 

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A SHIP'S LYRIC 

As I fly with the wings of the Morning o'er the 

cold ice-bound seas, 
When shouting waves rush past the ship, and the 

storm-fiend rides on the breeze, 
On the wave-washed deck 'neath the murky sky, 

when only the gods can hear, 
I think of a girl in the far Northland, and I wish 

that my love were near, 
And wish that my love were near me now, when 

the westerly breezes blow. 
Driving along o'er the southern sea through the 

blinding sleet and snow. 

We vi^ere fast settling dov^n to our new 
life, and becoming more or less accustomed to 
the limited capacity of our little vessel by 
the time we arrived at Madeira. This visit 
was decided on through a generous offer of a 
supply of coal by the Union Castle Company. 

Our stay of three days was enjoyable, and 
Evans and I spent some happy hours on shore 
rambling about among the beautiful hills, rich 
in sub-tropical foliage. Having discovered the 
most pretentious hotel, we indulged in the 
luxury of a hot bath — on the ship only a 
comfortless necessity — after which we dined 
well and, I take it, wisely. 

On the afternoon of our departure some 

39 



[THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

trouble arose over a stoker's refusing duty, and 
demanding to be put on shore. It is to be 
regretted that he had indulged in some of that 
fiery concoction procurable in such places, 
and known amongst sailors as * chain-light- 
ning.' This horrible stuff appears to madden 
rather than to intoxicate, and judging by his 
maniacal outpourings, he must have sampled 
a considerable quantity. He was so over- 
bearing and desperate that he was put in 
irons and locked up in the sail-room. 

The clink of the windlass in heaving up the 
anchor seemed to madden him afresh, as the 
gist of his threats was to the effect that he 
was determined not to proceed further in the 
ship, and if forced to, there would be whole- 
sale murder, and not a single man's life was to 
be spared. In his madness he armed him- 
self with an ice-pick and proceeded to demolish 
his prison door. Seeing that this must neces- 
sarily happen, for he was a powerful man, 
the captain directed Evans to take the two 
strongest men he could pick, and guard the 
door. Evans was always a peace-loving fellow, 
but, when there was fighting to do, he could be 
extremely useful and ugly. 

40 



* CHAIN-LIGHTNING ' QUELLED 

The stout door at length fell, in a more or 
less splintered wreck, out on to the deck. The 
infuriated man, with nostrils dilating and 
bloodshot eyes, and holding an ice-pick aloft, 
dared anyone to approach on peril of his life. 

In a flash Evans leapt through the half- 
open door, and rapidly throwing his right arm 
round the madman's neck, squeezing it as 
though in a vice, he dragged the astonished 
wretch on to the deck, threw him flat, and de- 
livered such physical punishment that in a 
very few moments all thoughts of murderous 
intentions had vanished. 

The man spent that night shackled, with 
arms behind him, to a stanchion, and before 
noon next day, being stiff, sore, much bruised, 
and extremely hungry, he expressed the desire 
to be released, and promised that he would 
return to work. That man became one of the 
hardest workers in the ship, and was always 
most respectful and civil to all, especially to 
Evans. 

After several days' sail the Line was ap- 
proached, and as a considerable number of 
our crew had not in the course of their journey- 
ings penetrated into the realms of the southern 

41 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

hemisphere, it was deemed imperative that 
they should be initiated into its mysteries by 
being presented to the Court of Neptune. The 
usual medical treatment and shaving opera- 
tions were officially carried out, and the pro- 
ceedings culminated in the recognised rough- 
and-tumble aquatic chaos of both victims and 
officials. 

Among the more stubborn victims to under- 
go treatment was our friend Evans, who was 
captured in a lifeboat with a rope round his 
neck after an exciting chase by the constables. 

With the advent of steam, however, these 
old customs of the sea, so religiously carried 
out in the old wind-jammer, have had their 
day, and are fast fading into oblivion. 



42 




THE AUTHOR 



CHAPTER V 

First taste of bad weather — Run across the Southern 
Ocean — Concerts and nigger minstrel entertain- 
ment — Sighting New Zealand — A beautiful dawn — 
Arrival at Lyttelton — Hospitality of New Zealanders 
— Preparing for the Antarctic — Sailing day — 
Humorous incident at fairewell service — An impres- 
sive send off. 

The passage through the tropics was enjoy- 
able, and it was not until rounding the Cape 
of Good Hope that any heavy weather was 
encountered. 

Now, I had always regarded my chum 
as an exceedingly capable and efficient officer, 
but at the same time his sailing experience 
had been confined to naval training brigs, 
manned by a working crew, numerous 
enough to perform any manoeuvre with 
rapidity. 

As our crew comprised only five men 
in a watch, I hinted that he would have 
to make allowances for the proportionately 

43 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

slower work, and not be tempted to carry- 
sail too long with approaching bad weather. 
It was a friendly suggestion on my part, 
having experienced in sail the capabilities 
of a limited crew. The following incident 
will serve to illustrate how easily one may 
be taken unawares. 

It occurred some days after rounding 
the Cape. The wind had freshened all day 
from the north, and in the evening, during 
my watch, it had veered to the N.W., and 
was blowing very strongly. The sky was 
overcast, and there was a spitting rain at 
times. The top-gallant sails were set, but 
all light stay-sails had been taken in. The 
sea was roaring and hissing up on the port 
quarter, and the little ship bowled along 
at nine knots. The wind, although so strong, 
was steady in force during the whole watch. 

Evans relieved me at midnight, and 
expressed delight at the strong fair wind. 
We were both enthusiastic at the pro- 
gress being made, and filled with that 
exhilarating feeling which prevails under 
such conditions. For what sensation can 
be compared to a ship driving before a 

44 




EVANS AND ENGLAND 



A SUDDEN SQUALL 

turbulent and seething ocean, with the wind, 
like an infuriated fiend, shrieking through 
the rigging ; the sails, discernible only against 
the scudding vault as dark oblong shapes, 
bellied out to their utmost limit ; the heaving 
vessel burying her lee in the foaming waters ; 
the startling crack and creak of braces and 
sheets with the extra strain ; the gunlike 
bangs of the wash ports with the escape 
of the lee water ; in short, the animated 
wilderness of the environment ? Those who 
go down to the sea in ships appreciate these 
things, and can realise the majesty of the 
mighty ocean. 

I had not been an hour below, after my 
watch, when a violent lurch of the ship 
startled me from my sleep and, quickly judging 
by the redoubled fury of the wind that a 
gale was upon us, I hurriedly put on a pair 
of slippers and rushed on deck in my pyjamas. 
The night was wild to behold ; the wind 
roared in its violence, a stinging storm of 
hail was beating the ocean into a boiling 
spume, and hard-driving spray was madly 
breaking over the entire ship, even up to 
the lower yards. The stout little craft was 

45 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

straining heavily before the elements, with 
lee-rail completely engulfed in the angry sea. 

There was no sound or sight of human 
being, and I had quickly noticed that the 
top-gallant sails were still set. Groping my 
way aft as quickly as possible by clinging 
to the weather rail, I reached the poop, 
and, faintly through the fury of the night, I 
heard a familiar voice. * Is that you, Jose ? ' 
it said ; ' give me a pull with the weather 
top-gallant brace.' 

It was pathetic. Here was poor Evans 
all on his own, struggling with practically 
the impossible under such conditions. But 
it was the only thing to do then. A sudden 
blinding squall had broken over the ship. 
He had fortunately seen its approach in 
time to place an extra man at the lee wheel, 
and in so doing had only narrowly averted 
broaching to. One man was on the look 
out, and the other two of his watch had been 
despatched to let fly both top-gallant halliards, 
to call all hands, and, if possible, to brace 
the fore top-gallant yard round to spill 
the wind out of the sail. Owing to the 
excessive violence of the squall, however, 

46 



FRIENDSHIP IN PYJAMAS 

the sails, holding so much wind, would not 
permit the yards to come down until four 
or five men, after much struggling and 
straining, managed to point them to the 
wind. 

Evans and I stuck to the main top- 
gallant brace, and practically had the yard 
round before help arrived. He was ex- 
ceptionally muscular, and I also apparently 
succeeded in doing herculean work, as it 
was only by almost superhuman efforts to 
retain circulation that I could possibly have 
withstood the rigours of such a night in a 
pair of cotton pyjamas ! 

The captain was, of course, soon on the 
scene. Anticipating a shift of wind, and 
the glass being very low, he ordered the 
mainsail and upper topsails to be taken in 
also. We worked away with a will, and 
before the watch was over, the ship was 
* snugged down ' and prepared for the worst. 

The strain was now over, and compara- 
tive peace reigned. At 4 a.m., as soon as 
he had handed over the watch, Evans and 
I went below, drenched to the skin, dirty 
and sore, especially about the hands and 

47 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

arms. Having clothed ourselves in comfort, 
we brewed some stimulating hot rum toddy, 
and completed the luxury with cigars. We 
sat thus for a considerable time, chatting 
over the strenuous evening's entertainment. 
Evans U3ed often to relate this experience 
in after times, and elaborated on my assist- 
ance. ' That's what I call friendship,' he 
would say. * Fancy a chap turning out in a 
howling gale in his pyjamas to give me a 
hand.' But it was, after all, my duty, and 
besides, it was a pleasure to be able to help 
my good friend, who had already done so 
much for me. After this night's experience 
I never needed to consider Evans's resources, 
which were quite equal to anything that 
might befall a ship even with a limited crew. 

Gales of varied duration and intensity 
were more or less conspicuous along the 
Southern Ocean. The engines were seldom 
needed as the breezes blew the ship along 
a great deal faster, and economy of coal 
was thereby effected. 

A fair amount of hard work, interspersed 
with a variety of entertainment, caused 
the days and weeks to pass merrily by. 

48 



' NIGGER MINSTRELSY ' 

When the weather was favourable, concerts 
were held, and to celebrate Evans's birthday 
(in October) he and I, aided by a young 
midshipman, inflicted a nigger minstrel 
entertainment on the company. The ward- 
room table was removed and chairs and 
camp-stools arranged to represent stalls 
and pit. The performers were attired in 
white mess jackets, dark trousers, and red 
cummerbunds, with the usual eccentric and 
extravagant stick-out collars and ties. Faces 
were, of course, blackened with the amateur 
make-up, burnt cork ; oakum wigs adorned 
the heads ; and the result was effectively 
ludicrous. 

The items rendered were more or less 
topical, and Evans, being a good mimic, 
was especially happy in his humorous Dago 
stories. A stump speech on Geography gave 
opportunity to discourse nonsensically on 
the Antarctic and its uses, and a few humor- 
ous and chorus songs exhausted our reper- 
toire. The audience seemed to enjoy the 
tomfoolery as much as we did ourselves, 
and a vote of appreciation was moved by 
the captain, who complimented our efforts 

49 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

by remarking that he had paid money to 
listen to a very much inferior entertainment ! 

Possibly for our good, this flattering 
speech was at this point suddenly curtailed 
by the visit of a heavy squall, and the en- 
tertainment broke up unceremoniously with 
a wild exit of both audience and performers 
to take in and furl the top-gallant sails. 

With time so fully occupied, there was 
no room for monotony or ennui, in spite 
of the fact that the outward voyage occu- 
pied four months. Early in November the 
Morning, true to her name, arrived at the 
first streak of dawn off Lyttelton Harbour, 
New Zealand. Here, after a period of three 
and a half months of eternal sea and sky, 
was the good land once more, and the breaking 
day displayed a beautiful and peaceful picture. 
The little ship, steaming through the placid 
water with yards squared to almost mathe- 
matical precision, sails snugly furled with 
an extra neat harbour stow, the burgee of 
the Royal Corinthian Yacht Club fluttering 
at the main, and the Blue Ensign at the 
peak, gradually approached the bold head- 
lands of the harbour entrance. 

50 



NEW ZEALAND HOSPITALITY 

On the one hand, along which we were 
steaming, were the hill-slopes of Banks 
Peninsula, indented by numerous picturesque 
bays, and on the other, in the grey distance 
across a vast expanse of low level plains, 
rose imposing snow-clad mountain ranges, 
partly wreathed in the morning mists, their 
roseate, sun-kissed peaks rising above. 

Lyttelton, the picturesque town nestling 
on the slopes of the Port Hills, was soon 
reached, and in spite of the early hour, a 
welcome in the shape of hooting whistles, 
dipping flags, and much cheering was accorded 
the little ship's arrival. Thus the initial 
part of the Morning's programme was brought 
to a successful conclusion. 

It would take many pages to attempt to 
describe the great kindness and hospitality 
extended to us by the people of Christchurch 
and Lyttelton, of every class. It was as- 
tonishing the interest displayed in the Ex- 
pedition, and one and all seemed imbued 
with a similar enthusiasm for its success as 
we ourselves. The Discovery had, of course, 
materially paved the way twelve months 
before. 

51 B2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

Time was limited, and a great deal of 
work had to be done finally to equip the 
vessel for her southern voyage. The evenings 
were mostly given up to social entertain- 
ment, which was liberally showered upon 
all members. Evans and I went every- 
where together, and were known as the 
* Doorvans Brothers,' until a friend with 
a waggish turn, suggested as an improve- 
ment, ' The 'Evanly Twins,' which was 
forthwith adopted ! 

It was remarkable what contrasts were 
experienced in evening entertainments ; one 
evening we might be driven out in a carriage 
and pair to dine and stay the night at one 
of the most sumptuous and beautiful palatial 
residences, whilst the following evening there 
might be a hospitable welcome to coffee 
and cakes in the kitchen of a modest working 
man's family. We enjoyed these evenings, 
in whatever social sphere, because of the 
frank and genuine hospitality extended by 
all, both rich and poor, with whom we came 
in contact. 

By the first week in December, the 
Morning was ready to proceed to the Ant- 

52 



A FAREWELL SERVICE 

arctic in quest of the Discovery. The vessel 
had been docked, cleaned, and painted ; 
rigging and gear carefully overhauled, and 
the hold laden to its utmost capacity with 
coal and stores. Every available locker and 
recess was likewise filled, and the large and 
interesting-looking mail for the Discovery 
occupied a room in itself. 

Sailing day was perfect, ships were gay 
with streamers of bunting, and an immense 
crowd had assembled to express their last 
wishes of good cheer and God-speed. Just 
before departure, an impressive farewell 
service was held on deck by the Bishop of 
Christchurch. It was a simple and touching 
ceremony, but, even at the gravest moments, 
humour occasionally can be found lurking 
in some odd corner. Evans and I, sharing 
a hymn-book, were singing lustily, when one 
of the crew who, through misdirected kindness, 
had been given too much liquor ashore, and 
had been sleeping the effects off, appeared 
on deck somewhat stupefied. Seeing the 
group on deck, and evidently thinking that 
he was missing something, he edged himself 
between Evans and me. Respectfully, but 

53 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

unfortunately audibly, he asked : ' Ain't I 
going to 'ave me photo taken too ? ' This 
was a passing indiscretion ; he was otherwise 
a very good man. 

At length the moment of departure 
arrived, ropes were cast off, and the brave 
little vessel steamed slowly out of the har- 
bour, amidst a perfect furore of cheering and 
handkerchief-waving. Whistles were blown 
from all directions, guns fired, and flags 
were flying gaily. On the tug which escorted 
the ship down the harbour were gathered 
all the good friends who had so generously 
assisted the Expedition in innumerable ways, 
and a band on board played appropriate and 
stirring tunes, until the final parting at the 
Heads, when, as a climax to an impressive 
send off, ' Auld Lang Syne ' was solemnly 
played. 

There was a sense of loneliness after all 
this excitement, and the whole-hearted re- 
sponse and affection of the many friends 
left behind had made a deep impression 
on us. 

Gradually the land receded, and slowly 
the shadows of night crept over a peaceful 

54 



DEPARTURE FOR THE SOUTH 

ocean. With thoughts of home and loved 
ones, and with high hopes for the future, 
our good ship gathered way, and through 
the lowering pall of night, she steered for 
the Frozen South. 



55 



CHAPTER VI 

Southward ho ! — ^The stormy Southern Ocean — First 
experience of ice — ^The midnight sun — Beauties 
of Antarctica — Christmas Day — ^New island dis- 
covered — Ship strikes an outlying rock — Captain's 
skilful seamanship — ^The ice pack — Seals — Exercise 
and spori:— Dangerous gale on edge of pack. 

There are few oceans so tempestuous as that 
globe-encircling expanse to the southward of 
the South Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans, 
usually known as the Southern Ocean. During 
all seasons stormy conditions prevail, and in 
spite of its being midsummer, the Morning 
encountered her full share of buifeting from 
the elements on her southern voyage. Being 
very heavily laden, the great seas broke con- 
tinually over the ship, and one night during 
a gale one of the quarter boats was dragged 
out of its tackles and swept away. 

Owing to these persistent westerly dis- 
turbances, the vessel was driven to leeward 
of the intended longitude for entering the ice 

56 



CHRISTMAS DAY 

pack, and when the first drift ice and stray- 
bergs were met, the ship was approaching the 
Antarctic Circle on the i8oth degree. 

This was Christmas Eve, 1902. The night 
was calm and wonderful. Here for the first 
time was perpetual sunshine, the sun just 
skimming the southern horizon at midnight. 
The peaceful ocean was dotted with innumer- 
able masses of detached ice ; the oblique rays 
of the sun cast weird shadows across the jagged 
bergs, and reflected through their fissures and 
weather-worn caves the most superb tints of 
sapphire and azure. New and beautiful bird 
life now abounded, the pretty brown-backed 
and silver-grey petrel, and the graceful snowy 
petrel, which so perfectly matches the ice 
that when flying low its dark bill alone is 
discernible. 

Christmas Day was even more perfect, the 
sky being cloudless. The calm sea, strewn 
with bergs of the most erratic shapes, and 
with denser drift ice, displayed in the intense 
sunshine a truly wonderful and dazzling effect. 
It was interesting, and indeed exciting at 
times, working the little ship through this icy 
archipelago. 

57 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

The ward-room was decorated with gaudy- 
coloured sledge flags, and the numerous parcels 
labelled ' Not to be opened until Christmas 
Day ' were duly laid out, and, after breakfast, 
investigated with all the customary eagerness 
and joyous abandon associated with Christmas. 

Evans received four Christmas puddings, 
and in a parcel from his mother were calendars 
for himself, the captain, and me. There were 
also boxes of sweetmeats, including crystallised 
fruit, and a large and handsomely designed 
Christmas cake from New Zealand. 

It was such a beautiful day that there was 
no such thing as worry or anxiety. We were 
a joyous party, and kept Christmas in the true 
British fashion. During the afternoon, Evans, 
who was on watch, added greater interest to 
the day by sighting an island, of which no 
record could be found in books, journals, or 
charts. With great pride, therefore, we claimed- 
the discovery of an unknown island. In the 
distance, with so many bergs about, it might 
have been a large discoloured berg itself, but 
it was soon observed to be a typical Antarctic 
island, a portion being covered with the usual 
heavy ice-cap. 

58 




OBSERVATION HILL 




PART OF SCOTT ISLAND AND HAGGITT's PILLAR 



A NEW ISLAND 

Early in the evening the island was reached, 
and was estimated to be two miles in length, 
with a remarkable cone-shaped islet close off 
it. The ship being stopped, a boat was lowered 
and a party, after some difficulty, landed and 
officially claimed the island in the name of 
Great Britain. Three cheers were given by 
the shore party, which were responded to 
with enthusiasm from the ship. A record was 
left on the island stating the discoverers and 
date. The ship lay off the land for the night, 
and a keen discussion arose that evening as to 
its naming. Christmas Island was, of course, 
the most appropriate, but there were already 
several Christmas Islands in the world. It 
was eventually decided to call it Markham 
Island, after Sir Clements ; but this was 
subsequently altered to Scott Island. 

Next day the forenoon was devoted to 
making a rough survey, and to plotting the 
geographical position of our discovery. Here 
was an opportunity for our surveyor, Mulock, 
who kept us all busy taking sextant angles, 
altitudes, chronometer times, soundings, and 
speed registers. It was arranged that lines 
of soundings be taken from close in shore 

59 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

direct out to sea on the four cardinal points, 
to ascertain the receding depths. 

These were carried out successfully from 
east to west, but, steaming about four knots 
along the land to get into position for the run 
out to the southward, the Morning very un- 
fortunately struck on an outlying rock. This 
was a most embarrassing situation, especially 
at an unknown island in a desolate ocean, and 
we all admitted afterwards having enjoyed 
brighter moments. 

* Full astern ' was immediately rung down, 
and the feeble engines in response struggled 
bravely, but with no effect. In an instant 
all hands were available, and set about 
their work with vigour and alacrity. A slight 
swell caused the vessel to bump with heavy, 
sickening thuds on the rock, which appeared 
to be under the main mast. The ship shivered 
and shook with the continuous jarring, and, 
being wooden, yielded in a remarkable manner 
to the concussion. A steel vessel would 
simply have foundered. Masts and yards 
quivered like aspen leaves, boats being pro- 
visioned swung in the davits, and the whole 
scene was as animated as it was awesome. 

60 



STRIKING A ROCK 

Our cool and collected commander lost not 
a minute. He was an able man, and well 
trained in the sailor's foremost qualification 
— resourcefulness — which now meant to think 
quickly, act promptly, and that rightly. A 
light breeze blew along the land. The order 
was given for all square sail to be set aback. 
The sails were set aback with wonderful 
rapidity, Evans and I competing as to who 
could get the sheets home first. The engines, 
working continuously, now acquired material 
acceleration by the leverage from the breeze 
against the spread of canvas. Just as a 
few crushed and splintered pieces of oak 
shot ominously from the bottom and fell 
with a splash on the surface of the water, 
sternway was perceptible, and after a few 
moments of suspense, the ship was boxed 
off the hidden danger, and slid into the 
gratefully deeper water. Yards were swung 
round willingly, and with the favourable 
breeze, the ship headed away from our 
treacherous discovery, and sailed for the 
southern pack. The captain calmly picked 
up his camera and took a final snap-shot 
of the island, ' to show there was no ill- 

6i 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

feeling,' he said, and also remarked that the 
line of soundings to the southward could 
await a more favourable opportunity ! 

In a few hours' time the dense ice pack 
was encountered, and varied progress was 
made through the night ; but on the following 
day the ship was brought to a standstill in an 
ice-covered sea. As far as eye could discern 
from the crow's-nest, there were blocks of 
every conceivable shape — large flat floes, 
and bergs packed together in one im- 
penetrable mass. There appeared to be no 
way onwards in any direction, nor, indeed, 
was there any trace to show how the ship 
had arrived thus far, all wake-tracks being 
completely obliterated. 

This great belt of ice, which has to be 
penetrated for one to two hundred miles 
before gaining the comparatively open sea 
once more, is the result of the winter's ice 
on the outskirts of the Antarctic shores, 
which drifts to the north until, reaching 
the warmer latitudes, it ultimately melts 
away. Owing to this drift, the entire sea 
of ice is continually on the move, and even 
if a ship is so beset at one moment that it 

62 



IN THE PACK 

seems apparently hopeless ever to get free 
again, in the course of a few hours, perhaps, 
the aspect may be so altered that long 
water ' lanes ' open out in many directions 
through which the ship can work for miles 
at times, until she becomes temporarily 
beset again. 

And so it goes on for days on end, with 
the ship ever straining and quivering, similar 
in effect to a traction engine struggling over 
a stony roadway, the roar along the sides 
sounding from below like incessant distant 
rumbling thunder, with occasional dull thuds 
when an ice block, smashed down by the 
ramming bow, bumps along under the ship 
before refloating. 

The pack varies in intensity and area 
according to close or open seasons. In the 
vicinity of land, the pack is generally very 
heavy, and owing to this obstruction, it is 
banked up, and much pressure arises. This 
is a source of grave danger, as a vessel runs 
the risk of being squeezed, and perhaps 
utterly crushed. Well out to sea, however, 
navigating in the ice pack is interesting, 
though at all times it sorely taxes the patience. 

63 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

When beset, we always embraced the 
opportunity to take exercise on the large 
floes ; ski-running, foot races, or football 
being always popular forms of recreation. 
Watering ship was done from time to time, 
and there was always a standing occupation 
of capturing seals and penguins. The crab- 
eater, or white seal, and the Weddell seal 
abound in the pack, and at rare intervals 
a sea-leopard is secured ; the latter are 
formidable creatures, measuring as much 
as twelve to thirteen feet in length, with a 
girth of six feet, and demand much energy 
on tackles to hoist on board. The penguins, 
however, always afford much amusement 
by their quaint antics, and with their black 
backs terminating in the funny little tails, 
spotlessly white breasts, and flippers akimbo, 
humorously caricature little men in evening 
dress suits ! A fit of the blues could readily 
be dispelled, I should imagine, by just watch- 
ing these unconsciously humorous creatures. 

The New Year was brought in in the 
authorised manner by blowing the whistle, 
ringing the bell, and general noise. Evans 
relieved me as usual at midnight, and after 

64 



AN EARLY NEW YEAR 

firing off a lumbering rifle known as 'The 
Arquebus,' with a report resounding enough 
even to cause the drowsy old seals to move 
their heads slightly, we wished each other 
the usual good things, apropos of New Year, 
and talked of the dear ones at home, knowing 
full well how they too would be thinking of 
us at this time. As the ship was practically 
on the one hundred and eightieth degree, 
we contended that we were bringing in the 
New Year before any other people in the 
world ! 

After four days of battling, having worked 
into the middle of the pack, a gale set in 
from the eastward, but only by the whistling 
of the wind through the rigging could one 
realise that such was the case. The ship 
lay motionless among the heavy floes, as 
quietly as at a wharf, and it was difficult 
to imagine that the ocean was, at this point, 
two thousand fathoms deep. No sea can 
rise, nor swell assert itself, owing to the 
presence of such masses of densely-packed 
ice. 

Progress to the south was made as oppor- 
tunity offered, and after three more days, 
65 F 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' 

the pack was noticeably looser. The gale, 
however, had blown persistently, and was 
even increasing in violence. It was clear 
that the southern edge of the pack was 
being approached, and the experience of a 
gale there was not cordially welcomed. 

The heavy floes and hummocked blocks, 
so beautiful and peaceful - looking only a 
few days before, now assumed a totally 
different aspect. The sea was gradually rising, 
a swell perceptible, and the ship bumping 
with increasing thuds against these rolling 
spur-projecting dangers. The full force of 
the gale soon threatened to overwhelm the 
stout but weak-powered little ship. 

In a very short time the whole ocean 
was a seething mass of storm-tossed ice 
derelicts, and the fury of the wind did not 
permit of any canvas being set. The engines 
were kept going for every pound they were 
worth — which power, however, hardly accom- 
plished steerage way. It was a tight corner, 
but it had to be faced, and with as much 
skill as possible. Among such numerous 
heaving dangers, it was impossible to avoid 
occasional collision, and there would be a 

66 



A STORM IN THE PACK 

truly sickening shock, when a great berg, 
sobbing and seething as it rolled, with the 
water hissing and belching out of its fissures, 
would be dashed from the wave's very crest 
with a terrific crash against the almost 
helpless vessel. 

However, by dint of constant vigilance 
in endeavouring to weather the more for- 
midable masses, and by giving way to others, 
though anxious in mind, weary in body, 
eyelids drooping, and faces cut by icy blasts, 
we succeeded in conning our little ship safely 
through a seeming eternity of four awful 
days and nights. 



67 



F 2 



CHAPTER VII 

First glimpse of polar continent — Cape Adare — ^Plans 
of Relief Expedition — ^The humorous penguins — 
— ' Southern Cross ' Expedition hut— First Dis- 
covery record found — ^Along the coast of South 
Victoria Land — Immense tabular bergs — Possession 
Islands — Coulman Island — Impenetrable ice pack 
— ^Futile efiorts to reach Wood Bay — Compass 
error — Strange ski impressions — ^Desperate attempt 
to reach Franklin Island — Providential escape 
from insetting pack. 

The tempest abating, nature, by way of 
contrast from her recent raging, smiled 
peacefully, and once more bathed the world 
in sunshine. Upon the smooth waters, the 
broken floes and weather-beaten bergs, 
floating listlessly, sparkled in the sunlight. 
Wide waterways were now revealed in many 
directions — black tracks against the dazzling 
snowy glare. The prevailing stillness was 
only disturbed by the movement of the 
ship or by an occasional penguin's caw. 
68 



CAPE ADARE 

Steaming ever southward, the ship charged 
at times through loose areas of ice, ploughing 
her way onwards with little reverse. In the 
far distance to the South, loomed, gradually, 
the first glimpse of the polar continent, and 
by midnight the lofty, ice-covered Admiralty 
Range of mountains stood boldly silhouetted 
against the golden blaze of the southern 
horizon. Cape Adare slopes to the north 
from this range, and forms the eastern side 
of Robertson Bay. 

After one full day's steaming, without 
unusual incident, the ship arrived at this 
point. On the flat, stony foreshore thousands 
of penguins could be seen, and, on closer 
observation, a dwelling hut, standing in 
the middle of the rookery. The ' Southern 
Cross ' Expedition, of which our captain 
was a member, had, some years previously, 
erected this hut, in which a winter was 
spent. 

The boat being lowered, a party, after 
negotiating a way through some stranded 
ice, landed, and with much interest wended 
its way through the rookery to the hut. 
They were greeted with a perfect bedlam 

69 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

of cawing penguins, making a really deafening 
and bewildering uproar. The breeding season 
was in full swing, and there was much anima- 
tion in the settlement, especially after the 
intrusion of strangers. The young penguins, 
little grey, fluffy blobs, squeaking in their 
terror, excitedly sought the parents' pro- 
tection ; whilst the adult birds in turn, 
with head comb raised angrily, gave vent 
to a persistent shrieking caw, and, in perfect 
paroxysms of uncontrolled temper, lashed 
out viciously at the men's legs with their 
hard little flippers. What quaint angry little 
things they are ! When a desperately irate 
penguin rushed at one with eager trembling 
flippers, one had simply to put a foot out, 
and the foolish creature, mad with rage, would 
hurl itself blindly at the point of the boot. 
The momentum, thus unexpectedly checked, 
would cause the unfortunate bird to describe 
an undignified backward somersault ! Strug- 
gling to its feet again, and for a moment ap- 
parently stupefied, it would reel as though 
tipsy ; then, with redoubled energy, another 
blind charge would be made at the boot, 
with the same upsetting result ! These pen- 

70 



THE FIRST CLUE 

guins seem to lose control of themselves 
through anger, actuated, no doubt, by fear ; 
but whatever they do, they display wonderful 
determination, and always appear to be in 
deadly earnest. 

The outer door of the hut being securely 
nailed, was, we considered, an ominous sign, 
but by means of a crowbar it was levered 
open, and on the top of an old cask standing 
in the porch, was a red painted tin cylinder 
with the name Discovery roughly painted on it 
in white letters. Thfs first clue in our search 
for the Discovery was opened with much 
eagerness in the living-room of the hut. It 
proved to be the first record left by that ship 
after leaving New Zealand, and was placed 
in the hut exactly twelve months before 
our visit. The only information gleaned 
was the fact that the Discovery had reached 
Cape Adare safely, having negotiated the 
ice pack in six days ; all on board were in 
excellent health and spirits, and the ship 
was proceeding on her voyage south the 
same day. A number of letters from staff 
and crew were also found in the cylinder. 

Before leaving England, it was arranged 

7^ 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

for the Discovery to leave records at certain 
points along the coast, and the Mornings 
duty, following twelve months afterwards, 
was, if possible, to find these records, and 
thereby locate the Discovery. This scheme, 
however, could not be otherwise than crude, 
by reason of the limited knowledge of the 
various points of vantage. Cape Adare was 
a certain mark, because of its hut, but other 
points and islands, being of considerable area, 
with undefined marks, rendered a search for 
so small an object about on a par with looking 
for a needle in a haystack. Still, the Morning 
had thus far penetrated the main ice pack, 
reached Cape Adare, and had found, in spite 
of its meagreness, the first clue of her search. 

The hut at Cape Adare is interesting, being 
a strong, well-built protection. Articles of 
clothing and stores lay about the living-room, 
and everything was in such good preservation 
that it was hard to realise that the place had 
been for several years uninhabited. After a 
few pleasant and interesting hours at Robert- 
son Bay, the ship proceeded to sea, and 
rounding Cape Adare, steered to the south-east. 

All day long the most imposing and 
72 



TABULAR BERGS 

stupendous tabular bergs were passed. These 
bergs of barrier formation are peculiar to the 
Antarctic, and are so vast as to be termed ice 
islands. The length of some observed was 
estimated at four to five miles, attaining a 
height of one hundred to one hundred and fifty- 
feet. The Morning, steaming five knots, would 
often take an hour to pass one of these im- 
mense floating masses, and the top surfaces 
could just be seen from the crow's-nest at the 
mast-head. 

A group of small islands, known as the 
Possession Islands, was next visited, and a 
landing effected on the largest island, where 
the most conspicuous mark was also a penguin 
rookery. A thorough search of the beach was 
made, but no trace of a record was found. 

Coulman Island, a large round-backed, ice- 
capped island, was next steered for. The 
island lies close off the mainland, and a vast 
quantity of ice was densely packed all round 
it for miles. For four days repeated efforts 
were made to reach the island from every avail- 
able quarter, but it was found impossible to 
effect a landing, the nearest approach being 
about fifteen miles. 

73 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

Seeing that it was futile to think of reach- 
ing the island, and as valuable time and coal 
were being expended, an attempt was made 
to get into Wood Bay, a pretentious inlet in the 
mainland some miles south of Coulman Island. 

Wood Bay was considered a likely place 
for the Discovery to winter, being apparently 
free from ice pressure, and having the advan- 
tage of closer proximity to the south magnetic 
pole than any then known haven. The mag- 
netic pole, or southern extremity of the earth's 
magnetism, being approximately two hundred 
miles inland, affected the Morning^ s compass 
to the extent of 147° deflection to the eastward, 
or, roughly speaking, if a true south course was 
to be steered, the compass pointed N.E. by N. 
This fact should be of unusual interest to 
nautical men. 

A determined effort was made to force 
the ship through the outlying pack, and into 
the bay, but it was a forlorn hope. An abso- 
lutely impenetrable ice pack extending twenty 
to thirty miles out to sea, confronted the ship, 
and for two days, skill, energy, and coal were 
expended in vain. Discussion arose as to the 
feasibility of dispatching a party to sledge 

74 



.J*C.'»' l~.7fi 




.4^ii'*4^ucr ^ 




STRANGE SKI-MARKS 

across the ice, but owing to the vagaries of ice 
packs in opening out unexpectedly, or drifting, 
the risk entailed was considered too great, and 
the idea therefore abandoned. This was now 
the third disappointment in our efforts to obtain 
tidings to direct our difficult search voyage,and it 
was discouraging and perplexing in the extreme. 

Needless to say, everyone was at high ten- 
sion, and keenly on the alert for any possible 
sign to identify the Discovery' s whereabouts. 
One day, off Wood Bay, a large floe was 
passed with two deep ruts, equi-distant apart, 
over the entire length of the floe. This exactly 
coincided with the impression made by skis on 
the snow surface, and for a considerable time 
it was a matter of exciting speculation. How- 
ever, it was discovered that penguins, although 
seldom employing this method, do occasionally 
travel along the snow on their breasts, pro- 
pelling themselves with their feet, and the 
result is a very close resemblance to the im- 
pression made by skis. 

Visible some miles to the southward, and 
well off shore, was Franklin Island — a long, 
narrow island, partly covered with the usual 
ice-cap — which, from its central situation and 

75 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

comparatively easy access, was the most likely 
place for a record to be left. 

All hopes of reaching Wood Bay being 
abandoned, the ship was forced well out to 
the eastward to clear the heavier land pack, 
and Franklin Island steered for. It was soon 
discovered, however, that the pack surrounded 
even this island, and extended several miles out 
to sea. The time had now arrived, though, for 
drastic steps to be taken to gain some infor- 
mation. A desperate attempt was, therefore, 
made to reach Franklin Island. 

The pack, composed of exceedingly heavy, 
hummocky floes, rendered the forced passage 
doubly trying, and the ship, charging against 
such obstacles at full speed would receive 
frequent severe shocks, and be brought up 
all standing, quivering with the concussion. 
Many hard hours were spent in this determined 
struggle, and even when about one mile dis- 
tant from the island, the prospects of success 
were doubtful, the ice being heavier and closer 
packed, and, worse still, a lane of open water, 
perhaps half a mile wide, lay between the 
pack and the island. If the ice had extended 
to the shore, one could safely have walked across 

76 



TO FRANKLIN ISLAND 

it and landed. The smallest ship's boat was 
too cumbersome to drag across the hiimmocked 
surface, otherwise this would have solved the 
problem. 

It was a tantalising situation, but as the 
ship was now in such a position that to proceed 
or retreat was equally arduous, it was decided, 
after an hour's adjournment for lunch, to 
adopt the former move, and endeavour to push 
through the intervening half-mile. This was 
no easy matter, as may be imagined, and the 
ship suffered perhaps the most excessive 
buffeting she was ever to experience. By 
going astern, the rudder would bring the ship 
up against the ice, then ' full ahead ' for a few 
seconds, and the sheathed bows would crash 
into a veritable wall, bringing everything to 
a standstill. Then astern again, and again 
ahead, and so on without cessation. 

It was bold and desperate work, but it was 
crowned with success, for after two hours of 
hard going, we had the satisfaction of seeing 
the last floe yield, and the ship gather way 
into the narrow water-lane. Ice-anchors were 
placed, and the ship moored against the inner 
side of the last troublesome floe. 

n 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

A boat was soon away, and the party 
landed on the long sloping stony beach, occu- 
pied as usual by thousands of penguins. 

The ship had been in this position for about 
an hour when a very unexpected and unwelcome 
change occurred. A dark, threatening cloud 
bank rose from the south, the whole sky soon 
became overcast, and the general outlook ap- 
peared extremely gloomy. As a blizzard might 
evolve suddenly, signals were made to recall 
the shore party, who were, however, so en- 
grossed in their search that the signals were 
unobserved. The whistle was blown and de- 
tonators fired, but to no purpose. Then the 
whole ice pack, for some unaccountable reason, 
commenced moving gradually and eerily to- 
wards the land, and it seemed inevitable that 
the ship would very soon be set broadside on 
to the rocky shore. Every effort was made 
to attract the shore party, who, fortunately, 
noticing the ship's predicament, hastened back 
on board. They were only just in time ; in- 
deed, the ship was under way before the boat 
was hooked on for hoisting. A strong breeze 
was now blowing, and the driving snow 
threatened to obscure everything. It was 

78 



A NARROW ESCAPE 

imprudent to attempt to force a way through 
an incoming ice-field, and the only chance of 
escape, risky though it appeared, was to steam 
as quickly as possible along the edge of the 
island, before the ice banked up against it. It 
was a touch and go, and the odds were against 
the ship, which was forced to skirt the shore 
ever closer and closer as the ice encroached 
on the limited water lane. Outlying reefs or 
sunken dangers, if there were any, could not be 
reckoned within the dire predicament, and the 
points of the island were narrowly skimmed, as 
there was only bare room then for the ship 
to pass. 

After running this anxious gauntlet for the 
entire length of the island, to our intense relief 
the pack became looser, and soon several exits 
in the shape of narrow water lanes providen- 
tially presented themselves. In a few hours' 
time the ship was pushed through this looser 
pack, and with much delight the open sea 
was once more welcomed. The hardest fea- 
ture of this trying ordeal was that, in spite 
of its exertions, anxieties, and risks, no record 
was found. 



79 



CHAPTER VIII 

Difficulties attending our undertaking — Cape Crozier 
and Mount Terror — ^Depots to be established if 
no record found — Party at Cape Crozier — Discovery 
located — ^Delayed a week in heavy pack — ^Mount 
Erebus — ^The deadly stillness — Beaufort Island — ^A 
sailor's venture — Subsequent humorous sequel — 
Exciting steam up MacMurdo Sound — Sighting 
Discovery's masts. 

It may now be understood how very difficult 
and arduous a matter it is to track a vessel in 
these more or less unknown regions. So much 
has to be reckoned with that the most carefully 
prepared schemes, combined with the utmost 
resourcefulness and ingenuity, are only too 
frequently doomed to disappointment and 
failure. 

When the excitement of the hair-breadth 
escape from Franklin Island had subsided, the 
resume of the search voyage so far had to be 
summed up as disappointing and unsatis- 
factory. The places visited had produced no 

80 



CAPE CROZIER 

information, and the inaccessible points might, 
or might not, possess some clue. All that was 
possible had been done to obtain tidings, and 
the result was — perplexity. 

The only remaining course now was to 
investigate the last definite point, which was, 
as far as we knew, the most southerly land 
known. 

Having been extricated from all pack, the 
Morning was steered south again in the open 
waters of the Ross Sea, passing a few enormous 
bergs, and occasional drift ice, but nothing in 
the nature of a pack. 

. By nightfall, after steaming all day from 
Franklin Island, the dark outline of Cape 
Crozier could be seen ahead, and above, through 
breaks in the overhanging clouds, glimpses of 
Mount Terror were disclosed. Cape Crozier 
forms the termination of the eastern slopes of 
Mount Terror, immediately behind being the 
commencement of the Great Ice Barrier, which 
trends for miles to the eastward. 

If no record were found at Cape Crozier 
the Morning's programme would be materially 
affected. In view of this eventuality, instruc- 
tions had been issued for the ship to follow 

8l G 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

along the Barrier to the eastward as far as a 
certain indentation in its face known as the 
Bay of Whales ; and if no record were dis- 
covered even there, a depot of fuel and pro- 
visions must be established. The ship would 
then retrace her tracks and establish large 
depots of fuel, provisions, and clothing at all 
the points visited on the outward voyage, 
namely, Cape Crozier, Franklin Island, Wood 
Bay, Coulman Island, Possession Island, 
and Cape Adare ; on the completion of 
which, as the navigable season would be 
over, the ship must forthwith return to New 
Zealand. 

To perform this depot-laying scheme would 
necessarily entail much solid work, and, judg- 
ing by the recent experience of the difficulties 
attending some of the points, not a little risk. 
Cape Crozier was therefore approached with 
longing hopes for deferred information. 

On drawing up to the land, the unfolding 
midnight scene was as impressive as it was 
beautiful. The sea was smooth, the air still, 
and the scene was tinted a purply grey. The 
heavy overhanging clouds gradually lifting 
revealed Mount Terror in its magnificence, 

82 



A RECORD FOUND 

rising abruptly from the cape in a towering 
ice-clad cone of eight thousand feet, with 
hummocked, extinct volcanic craters along 
its steep slopes. Behind the cape rose the 
Great Ice Barrier, whose miraged surface 
scintillated dazzlingly in the sun's slanting 
rays. A reddish coloured slope from the cape 
indicated a penguin rookery, the prearranged 
mark for the Cape Crozier record. 

A boat was soon away from the ship, 
and the eager party, on landing, scattered 
in search in all directions over the rookery. 
The ship cruised a short distance from the 
shore with an equally interested group, every 
movement of the shore party being observed 
through telescopes and binoculars, and to 
the men anxiously awaiting this almost vital 
result the search seemed interminable. 

As a matter of fact the shore party, after 
the first hasty search, were becoming somewhat 
anxious themselves, when the captain, sight- 
ing a post standing well up in the rookery, 
raised an excited yell, and rushing wildly 
through the rookery, oblivious of the abject 
terror created amongst the unfortunate pen- 
guins, reached the post first, followed rapidly 

83 G2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

by an excited and eager party. This 
smart movement was, of course, noticed from 
the ship, and a lively discussion arose as to 
its meaning. 

In a few minutes a semaphore signal was 
made from the shore, and, almost breathless 
with suppressed excitement, this grateful and 
thrilling message was^pelt out : — 

' Found three records. Discovery in Mc- 
Murdo Bay. Latest news only three months 
old. All well.' 

It is not hard to imagine the feelings of 
the little ship's company. After all the 
reverses and disappointments of the past 
weeks, with their accompanying anxieties and 
doubts, finding such news at this final point in 
the search was altogether delightful. Lusty 
cheers were exchanged in an outburst of pride 
and thankfulness. The search party soon 
returned to the ship, and keen indeed were 
those who gathered round the ward-room 
table to learn the contents of these historic 
and interesting documents. 

The first record, twelve months old, was 
left at Cape Crozier when the Discovery 
was on her way to the eastward. It stated 

84 




CAPTAIN COLBECK READING ' DISCOVERY ' RECORDS KOUND AT 

CAPE CROZIER 

(Lieut. Mulock on right) 



NEWS OF THE 'DISCOVERY' 

that, after leaving Cape Adare, twelve months 
before, the ice-pack was too dense to effect 
a landing at the Possession Islands, but 
records were left at Coulman Island and 
Wood Bay. Franklin Island had also to 
be omitted owing to excessive pack ice. It 
was interesting to note, by comparing the 
two seasons, the difference in the ice-distri- 
bution along the coast, the previous season, 
as can be seen, being totally different. 

The second record, eleven months old, 
was left on the Discovery^ s return, and con- 
tained an interesting account of the journey 
to the eastward along the Great Ice Barrier, 
when, after several days of steaming and 
penetrating some heavy ice-pack, a new land, 
named King Edward VII Land, was discovered. 
As the ice showed signs of much pressure, 
and as no inlet could be found for wintering, 
this inhospitable looking locality was left 
and the ship returned to South Victoria 
Land. 

The third, and most interesting record to 
us, was left by a sledge-party the following 
spring, who, after leaving the Discovery^ s 
winter quarters, had found a route over 

8s 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

the Barrier to Cape Crozier. The record 
stated that, after leaving Cape Crozier, the 
Discovery steamed along the Mount Terror 
shore to its western extremity, passing 
between this termination, known as Cape 
Bird, and Beaufort Island, a few miles to 
the northward. Proceeding still to the west- 
ward, across the entrance of McMurdo Bay 
(as it was then termed), a suitable winter 
harbour on the mainland was discovered, 
and named Granite Harbour, its only dis- 
advantage being its exposure to the east- 
ward. However, in the event of nothing 
better offering, this harbour could be availed 
of. 

As McMurdo Bay appeared comparatively 
ice-free, the Discovery proceeded due south, 
and after steaming about forty miles up 
this inlet, the mountainous ranges of the 
mainland to the westward, and Mounts 
Terror and Erebus to the eastward, a small 
well-sheltered bay was discovered at the 
extremity of a narrow neck of land sloping 
to the south-west from Mount Erebus. 
To the south of this, again, a continuation 
of the |Ice Barrier was found to cross the 

86 



SAILING DIRECTIONS 

bay, and this revealed the surprising fact 
that this inlet, hitherto considered a bay, 
was in reality a strait, and Mounts Erebus 
and Terror formed a large island. The strait 
was subsequently called McMurdo Sound. 
Attaining such a high latitude as ']^'^ \%' south 
in the ship was eminently satisfactory, and 
the small bay at the termination of the 
Erebus slope was utilised by the Discovery 
as the winter quarters. ' A comfortable 
winter was passed,' the record added, ' the 
only real inconvenience being the persistent 
and severe blizzards from the south-east.' 

With the advent of spring sledging was 
commenced, and one of the first journeys 
undertaken was along the Barrier surface, 
following the southern shores of the Erebus 
and Terror Island, and a way discovered to 
the eastern extreme of the land, terminating 
in Cape Crozier, where this last record was 
left. 

The * sailing directions ' in the record 
recommended following the Discovery's route 
from Cape Crozier, along the Terror shore, 
between Cape Bird and Beaufort Island, 
and up McMurdo Sound. There was also 

87 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

a rough chart of the sound, showing the 
more prominent and conspicuous landmarks, 
and a sketch of the aspect of the land and 
winter quarters from a distance of ten 
miles. 

The information and instructions in this 
record were naturally read with the greatest 
interest, and, as the distance to the Dis- 
covery could not exceed ninety miles, hopes 
ran high that before another day had passed 
the long-looked-for meeting of the ships would 
eventuate. 

The ship now headed to the westward, 
and, with extra willing hands, there was no 
difficulty in maintaining a full head of steam. 
Cape Bird and Beaufort Island were already 
visible in the grey distance, and a course 
was set to pass between these points. 

The Morning had only been steaming for 
about two hours from Cape Crozier, however, 
when an ice-pack was observed ahead, into 
which she ultimately ran. For a few hours 
varied progress was made on a more or less 
westerly course, but the pack getting heavier 
and more compressed eventually brought the 
ship to a full stop. As far as could be seen from 
88 



A FINE-WEATHER CHECK 

the crow's-nest was an endless pack, extend- 
ing even to the northern horizon. This was 
a delay not allowed for in our calculations, and 
it now seemed that the ninety miles to the 
Discovery would not be accomplished in one 
day. 

One day ? Why, this day passed, and the 
next, and the next, and the progress made is 
not worth recording. It was extremely disap- 
pointing, and quite evident that more pack 
remained this season than the previous one, 
in which the Discovery had sailed unchecked 
over this very track. 

The weather was very fine during those 
days, which perhaps accounted for the slug- 
gishness of the pack. The scene, though 
growing exceedingly monotonous, was never- 
theless striking. Ahead were Cape Bird and 
Beaufort Island, between which points, and in 
the dim distance, the mountainous coastline 
of the mainland could be seen. To the south, 
now opened clear of Mount Terror, loomed 
the imposing ice-capped Mount Erebus, for 
ever emitting steam from its crater, thirteen 
thousand feet above sea level. The days were 
sunny, with variable breezes, but at night, the 

89 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

world seemed to stand still. The sun, passing 
low behind the darkened mountains, caused 
the diffused light to cast a weird gloom over 
everything, and the deadly silence, intense 
enough almost to be felt, produced indeed an 
eerie effect. Standing in the crow's nest, the 
pervading stillness was oppressive, and a 
' chink ' of the wheel chains even would sound 
startling. Occasionally, miles distant, the 
sharp reports of breaking ice resounded alarm- 
ingly, like rifle cracks, showing that at any 
rate Nature toils ceaselessly though the world 
seems dead. 

Although small progress was made with 
the ship as far as human skill was concerned, 
yet it was plainly visible that a ' set ' of some 
sort was forcing her along to the westward. 
Nature again assisted and saved much anxiety. 
By the fifth day the ship was but a mile or two 
from the channel entrance, and remained fast 
in very heavy pack, the current seemingly 
weaker. 

One of the sailors, embracing this oppor- 
tunity, jumped from floe to floe, and succeeded 
in landing on Beaufort Island, about one mile 
away. It was a risky venture, as, in the event 
90 



*NAME THIS CHILD' 

of the pack's loosening, it might have been 
impossible to get to him. He returned safely, 
however, and received a reprimand for his 
pains. By digressing for a few moments the 
sequel to this incident may be related. 

This sailor lived in New Zealand, and, one 
day after our return to Lyttelton, he con- 
fidentially informed Evans and me that his 
wife had recently presented him with a 
daughter, and he would be grateful if we could 
advise a name for the child, and would also 
esteem it a great favour if one of us would be 
godfather. We were then in Evans's cabin, 
the table and walls of which were decorated 
with photographs, including those of some 
pretty girls. The sailor was invited into the 
cabin and asked to choose the face he liked 
best among the photographs. Selecting one, 
Evans informed him that his choice was a girl 
named Myrtle, and he could, therefore, do no 
better than to suggest that name for his small 
daughter. For a second name Evans strongly 
emphasised the appropriateness of Beaufort, 
being, as he explained, not only a ' high-class ' 
name, but, as the child's father was the only 
man, alive or dead, who had ever landed on 

91 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

the island of that name — and in so doing had 
incurred a severe censure ! — it was only fit- 
ting that the name be adopted in his family, 
even if only as a reminder of his indis- 
cretion. The child was therefore christened 
' Myrtle Beaufort,' and Evans stood as god- 
father. 

But to continue the narrative. During 
the afternoon the current became noticeably 
stronger, and the ship, together with the pack, 
was set rapidly, by this unseen power, through 
the narrows between Cape Bird and Beaufort 
Island. As soon as the channel was passed 
the pack loosened, and from the crow's-nest 
came the welcome report that open water was 
visible to the south. The engines were soon 
going their hardest, and in a very short while 
the pack was cleared and the ship, heading to 
the south, at last steamed into McMurdo 
Sound. 

As far as could be seen the sound was 
apparently ice-free, and this, after six days' 
imprisonment, was a delightful change. Coal 
was piled into the furnaces, and the little ship, 
steaming a possible seven knots, trembled with 
the propeller's throb. The night was calm, 
92 



ENTERING THE SOUND 

and lowering clouds hung over the higher 
land. To the westward the mainland of 
mountainous ranges revealed at intervals their 
bare granite sides of reddish-grey colouring 
and glacier-filled valleys. The whole of the 
eastern shore was bounded by the majestic 
Erebus, whose smooth slopes could be seen 
ever higher and higher through the overhang- 
ing clouds, with an occasional glimpse of the 
lofty steaming crater itself. To the south- 
west mountain peaks stood in bold relief against 
the midnight sky, and the southern horizon, 
over the Barrier, was veiled in the softest 
purple haze. 

But greatest attention was directed to the 
southern slopes of Erebus, where point after 
point along its shores was keenly picked 
out, and verified on the rough little chart. 

A prominent cape was passed, then some 
conspicuous dark islets, and a peculiar glacier 
tongue sloping well off shore ; next a re- 
markable landmark. Castle Rock, protruding 
darkly from the narrow ice ridge off the 
south-western slope of Erebus. The excite- 
ment was now intense, the sighting of the 
Discovery being momentarily expected. Every 

93 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

available telescope and glass was brought to 
bear on the slowly unfolding scene. 

The aspect now practically coincided 
with the sketch found in the record, and, 
by carefully following along the slope from 
Castle Rock, we noted the ridge terminating 
in a low, icy projection, named on the chart 
Hut Point ! The Discovery must surely be 
there ! 

An extra keen sailor, who had been for 
six hours in the crow's-nest, suddenly 
began cheering, and pointed excitedly ahead. 
Through the most powerful telescope on the 
bridge, and with eyes straining, the trucks 
of two of the Discovery^s masts were just 
discernible immediately behind Hut Point ! 
The whole ship's company rushed eagerly 
on to the bridge, glasses were directed at 
this long-looked-for sight, and through sheer 
excitement and thankfulness a spontaneous 
stirring cheer rent the night air. 

But if there were thoughts that the ship 
would steam close to the Discovery^ they 
were doomed to disappointment ; for in a 
few minutes an extensive ice-field was seen 
stretching across the entire width of the 

94 



FOUND AT LAST 

sound, which soon brought the ship up 
at a distance of, approximately, ten miles 
from the long-looked-for goal ! 

Still, the arduous search was over : the 
Discovery had been successfully tracked in 
seven weeks after leaving New Zealand; 
and at midnight, through the quivering 
mirage, as a proof that we also were observed, 
a large Union Jack fluttered out a welcome 
from the staff at Hut Point. 



95 



CHAPTER IX 

Ten miles of field ice — Experiments with ice-saws — 
First visitors — Return of sledge parties — A curious 
sight — Return of Captain Scott's southern party 
— First visit to the Discovery — ^The winter harbour 
— ^Meeting Scott, Wilson, and Shackleton — Banquet ! 
— Captain Scott's speech — ^Astonishing hunger after 
sledging— An incident both humorous and pathetic. 

Perhaps only those who have experienced 
weeks on end in an unknown and uninhabited 
region can thoroughly appreciate the peculiar 
sensation created by gazing intently once 
more upon some sign of civilisation. Although 
quite anticipated, yet the actual sighting of 
the Discovery's masts, such mere specks in 
this eternal desolation, was both fascinating 
and impressive. 

Much eagerness was displayed to sledge 
the mail promptly over to the Discovery^ but 
the ice in the immediate vicinity appeared 
too unsafe to risk the transport of such 
valuable stuff. 

96 



ICE SAWS 

Early the next morning tripods were 
rigged on the ice ahead of the ship, and 
ice-saws were tried with a view to cutting 
a way through to the solid field about two 
miles in. The ice was, however, in such a 
honeycombed and rotting condition that 
very soon the sawing party got into a sorry 
plight by frequently slipping through the 
slushy surface up to their knees, and, at 
times, to their waists. Finally, as the tripod 
itself threatened to perform the disappear- 
ing act, sawing operations were hurriedly 
abandoned, and, with difficulty, both men 
and gear were hauled on board. 

The ice, although in such a rotting con- 
dition, was, nevertheless, so slushy and sticky 
as to check effectively all efforts to push 
the ship through it. Two miles in, it was 
several feet thick, and apparently continued 
solid to Hut Point, or further. It was 
decided, therefore, that patience was the 
only plan to adopt for the present : the 
rotten ice would soon break away, and the 
ship could then be secured to the solid field. 

A constant watch was, of course, kept 
in the direction of Hut Point, and by noon 

97 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

came the welcome report that a sledge party 
had rounded the point, and was heading for 
the Morning. 

Ten miles is a long way in these regions, 
but to the uninitiated and inexperienced 
this party seemed to travel all too slowly. 
About 3 P.M. a halt was observed, and two 
tents pitched — for afternoon tea, as we learned 
later ! Re-packing the sledges again, every 
movement of our visitors was keenly watched, 
and gradually and steadily they approached. 
About ten men were counted, dragging two 
sledges, and the few dogs accompanying 
them seemed to enjoy their freedom in 
scampering for miles out of the way at times 
to yap at and torment any sleepy old seals 
unfortunate enough to be in the vicinity. 

A signal was made from the ship warning 
the party of the rotten ice area, and although 
the message was received, their progress 
was little retarded. A leader, testing the 
strength of the ice with his ski staff, piloted 
the others in a most skilful manner to within 
a few yards of the ship. 

Then a great cheering burst forth and 
much animation prevailed. By means of 

98 




' EVERY MOVEMENT WAS KEENLY WATCHED 




Al'l'KOACH OF OIK ilK>l \l^^llOk^ 



A MEETING EFFECTED 

ropes and planks thrown out, these intrepid 
weather-beaten explorers were expeditiously 
hauled on board. As soon as the last man 
reached the deck, another spontaneous cheer 
rang out, and with the warm-hearted hand- 
shakes, the cheering, and the yapping of the 
dogs, the incident could not have been more 
thrilling. 

Here, then, were the men we had come 
out to assist — men hardy, and tanned, and 
sturdy of frame. Officers, scientists, and 
seamen, each assisting the other in the one 
common cause — men of simple bravery, who 
could modestly and unaffectedly tell of ter- 
rible hardships, privations, and hair-breadth 
escapes, enough to make one's blood tingle 
with pride. 

This party, under Armitage (an old 
Worcester boy), had only returned four days 
before from the pioneer journey up the 
western mountains, occupying two months. 
All other members of the ship were still 
away on various sledge journeys. 

Captain Scott and Dr. Wilson — whose 
subsequent tragic and heroic deaths, after 
reaching the South Pole during their later 

QO H 2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

expedition, so completely shocked the civilised 
world — were away, in company with Lieut. 
Shackleton (now Sir Ernest Shackleton), 
on the first southern journey ever attempted. 
They had set out early in November for 
the south, Captain Scott expecting to return 
during the first week in February. If, how- 
ever, through unforeseen circumstances, they 
were delayed, and had not returned by the 
first week in March, the hut (on Hut Point) 
was to be well provisioned, a search party 
left at the base, and the Discovery, with 
the relief ship, was to return forthwith to 
New Zealand. 

During the next few days the rotten ice 
broke away, and the ship was secured to the 
main field. 

Sledge parties were now returning, each 
with its fund of thrilling adventures and 
discoveries, and in turn they also visited the 
Morning, to welcome fresh faces, to engage 
in new conversations, and to learn the news 
of the outside world. A great demonstration 
always greeted the return of a sledge party. 
When sighted, parties would rush out to 
meet them, and amidst cheers and con- 

100 



KILLER WHALES 

gratulations, they would harness in, and 
assist to drag the sledges home. 

By the last day in January all parties 
were back at the base, with the exception 
of the southern party. A constant lookout, 
both night and day, was kept to the south- 
ward over the great wastes of the Ice 
Barrier. Fresh provisions and clothing were 
sledged over to the Discovery from time to 
time, the New Zealand mutton and potatoes 
being especially relished. Since an unfortu- 
nate outbreak of scurvy during the winter 
the entire company had lived on seal meat, 
discarding all canned meats as the seeming 
cause of this dreaded disease. 

One evening a very extraordinary thing 
was pointed out by Evans, who had been 
scanning the southern horizon with a telescope. 
On the snow surface, about two or three miles 
south, were two conspicuous dark objects with 
rounded tops, similar in shape to large tor- 
pedoes. No one could hazard a guess as to 
what they were. Even if distorted by mirage 
they could hardly be men or seals, because 
the height of these strange shapes must have 
been twelve or thirteen feet, and they were 

lOI 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING * 

also of bulky circumference. They were seen 
to be moving continuously from side to side. 
Through the most powerful telescope these 
weird-looking things proved to be the heads of 
two killer whales ! Just in this vicinity were 
two or three seal holes which we had previously 
noticed when sledging, and the whales had 
presumably found these beneficial to obtain 
air, or more likely still, they may have been 
on a seal quest. They remained swaying 
monotonously for a long time, and Evans 
made a sketch of this unique sight, which I 
daresay he still has in an old diary. It is 
known, I believe, that killers do attack 
seals ; at any rate it has been proved that 
seals have an enemy of some sort in the 
water. We never trespassed near these seal 
holes again, in case a sportive killer, seeing 
the dark reflection through the ice, might, 
in all innocence, mistake one of us for a 
seal, with a result not at all pleasing to 
think of. 

While we were at breakfast on the morning 

of February 3 a report was sent below that 

the Discovery^ s masts were dressed with flags. 

A few of that ship's members being on the 

102 



RETURN OF SCOTT 

Morning at the time, immediately assumed 
that the cause for this display must be the 
possible return of the southern party. 

Hastily finishing the meal, all was soon 
animation and bustle. A couple of sledges 
were loaded, wind-suits and the usual sledging 
apparel donned, and a party of ten set out for 
the Discovery. The day was fine, and the 
travelling comparatively easy, though few 
of our crew were as yet so expert on ski 
that a trip-up and fall were not momentarily 
expected. However, the journey was pleasant 
and invigorating, and fair progress was made 
across the snow-covered ice. 

When about one mile from Hut Point an 
excited party of perhaps twenty men came 
ski-ing rapidly out to us, and hailed us with 
the news that the southern party had just 
returned safely, having reached 82° 17' south 
latitude. They had suffered much from 
scurvy, and all dogs had either perished or 
been killed. 

This was the pioneer sledge journey to the 
south, and a remarkable feat under such ad- 
verse conditions, the three men being absent 
over ninety days from the ship. Lusty cheer- 
103 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

ing was exchanged between the parties, and, 
hitching themselves to the traces, the Dis- 
covery men gave us a grateful help-in with the 
sledges. 

Rounding Hut Point, here, at last, was the 
Discovery, completely frozen in. The little 
bay formed an ideal winter harbour, having, 
when ice-free, just swinging room for a ship at 
anchor. 

The * settlement ' was quite animated and 
civilised looking. On Hut Point stood the 
roomy hut, with the magnetic huts close by. 
Adjacent to the ship were various rough 
shelters and dog kennels, and astern, the 
meteorological screens and anemometer. 
Sledges and ski stood near the gangway, or 
' front door,' and sundry discarded cases, 
casks, and empty tins gave a homely aspect 
to the scene. 

The southern party had received a tre- 
mendous ovation on arrival. They were 
sighted the night before, insignificant black 
specks on the Great Barrier, and a party 
went out to accompany them home. By the 
time we arrived at the Discovery they had 
indulged in a welcome bath, the luxury of a 
104 




CAPTAIN SCOTT LEAVING THE 'MORNING* 




DISCOVERY IN WINTER QUARTERS 



SCOTT AND HIS COMRADES 

shave, and the comfort of a change from their 
dilapidated sledging gear. 

In the ward-room we met Captain Scott, 
that gallant officer and ideal leader, to have 
known whom was a privilege. Even after all 
his recent hardships, sickness, and almost 
starvation, he was already interesting him- 
self in the comfort and welfare of the others, 
and received us with affectionate hospitality. 
He was overjoyed to be ' home ' once again, 
and delighted to know that the relief ship had 
arrived safely. After hastily glancing through 
his imposing looking mail, and learning also 
that the whole company had received good 
news, he said that it was a blessing to be 
able aptly to quote that * joy cometh in the 
morning.' 

Poor Wilson and Shackleton were con- 
fined to their bunks, so severely had the 
scurvy served them. The former's leg was 
badly swollen, and had not been improved 
by a fall in a crevass. Shackleton was very 
ill, and was, on the return journey, in a dying 
condition, but through dogged determina- 
tion and indomitable spirit they had pulled 
through, and accomplished a journey which, 
105 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

for sheer pluck and endurance, was difficult 
to surpass. 

The whole world now knows of the sub- 
sequent tragic end of two of this party, who 
are justly ranked with the heroes of our 
nation. I shall never cease to be thankful 
for the great privilege of meeting and knowing 
such noble men. 

But at the time of this narrative there 
was no lurking tragedy of sorrow and death, 
and that evening of February 3, 1903, was 
one of utmost thankfulness and extreme 
joy. Had not all sledge parties returned 
without disaster ? Was not a furthest south 
record established ? Were not all the re- 
sults of the Expedition successful ? Were 
not hopes high that in the course of a few 
months all would be home again amongst 
their nearest and dearest ? And the relief 
ship had brought only good and cheerful 
tidings. Among such splendid men the 
feelings could not be happier. 

In keeping with the prevailing joyous 
abandon, a ' banquet ' was held in the even- 
ing ; that is to say, an extra * whack ' of 
New Zealand mutton was permitted, and 
106 



A FEAST AND A SPEECH 

the fattest plum puddings were produced ! 
The menu comprised canned soup and fish, 
mutton and potatoes, plum pudding, canned 
fruit, savouries, coffee, and a generous supply 
of wine and liqueurs, topped off with cigars. 
There were some who sipped their champagne 
from tin pannikins, and somewhat worn 
enamelled plates had to be occasionally 
introduced, but this jerseyed and mufflered 
party did not eat or drink the less because 
of these irregularities. The good cheer so 
predominated that even poor Shackleton 
made an effort to take his place at the table, 
although he could not sit a course through. 
Wilson did not attempt it ; but the two 
did remarkable justice to the good things 
served in their cabins. 

Stirring speeches were, of course, delivered, 
and Captain Scott, in reply, was almost 
overcome with the joy of it all. Think 
what it was to be suddenly surrounded with 
such luxury and relief after that awful 
ninety days' sledge journey ! Even now, 
so impressed was I at the time, I can 
practically remember word for word his 
manly, modest response. ' You are all such 
107 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING 

jolly good fellows,' he said, * that I can't 
thank you enough for the words you have 
spoken, and I can't hope to explain what 
it is to me to have men like you with me. 
But you can understand my feelings, I dare 
say, and I ask you to let me off speechifying, 
as there'll be no end of it to do when we 
get home, I expect. I should like to add 
that, under the circumstances, we cannot 
be too thankful that we have the relief 
ship with us.' 

By this last allusion, it had evidently 
dawned on Captain Scott that, owing to 
the presence of so much ice so late in the 
season, it was possible that the Discovery 
would be detained for another winter. 

It was astonishing the amount of food 
the three members of the southern party 
consumed ! (Perhaps it was rude to notice 
this, but it was almost painfully apparent !) 
After a severe and lengthy sledge journey 
on reduced rations the longing for food is 
naturally great, and when it can be obtained 
in plenty the result is usually a gorge ! 
Men get very sick after it, but go on eat- 
ing and eating, until in a few days' time 
lo8 



HUNGER AFTER SLEDGING 

the digestive organs return to their normal 
condition, and the ravenousness moderates. 
One was apt to entertain alarm at this awful 
gorging, and expect some terrible upset, 
but the doctors said that it was only- 
natural after starvation, and no harm could 
result. 

The evening was devoted to music and 
song. I could not help observing Captain 
Scott, who appeared restless in his happiness. 
One minute he would be comfortably lounging 
in an armchair smoking a large cigar and 
enjoying the music ; the next he would 
suddenly disappear into his cabin to read 
some of his mail ; then he would return 
again to the ward-room, remarking at each 
reappearance, ' By Jove, this is relief abso- 
lutely ! ' But he only too frequently visited 
the pantry to have another go at the remnants 
of the dinner ! Then he'd surreptitiously 
steal into Wilson's and Shackleton's cabins 
with fresh supplies from the pantry ! He 
was duly observed, but, knowing that this 
craving for food had to be satisfied somehow, 
no one pretended to notice the determined 
and continuous efforts he made to satisfy 
109 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

the inner man, not only in his own case but 
also in that of his companions. 

At midnight I went up to Hut Point 
with one of the officers, and, with two flags 
tied to broom handles, we managed to get 
the news through by semaphore to Evans, 
who was on the Morning. Although there 
was much mirage, he received the signal 
and replied, ' Heartiest congratulations from 
all on the Morning.^ 

We slept any and everywhere that night, 
the surplus hands in sleeping-bags on the 
cabin floors. I had not been asleep more 
than perhaps an hour, when I was awakened 
by hearing Captain Scott rousing Shackleton, 
whose cabin was next door. 

' Shackles ! ' I heard him call. ' I say, 
Shackles, how would you fancy some sardines 
on toast ? ' In a little while the smell 
of toasting bread at the ward-room fire 
permeated the place, and a few minutes 
later I heard Wilson thanking the captain 
for the luxury ! This continued at intervals 
during the early hours, and struck me as being 
at once humorous and pathetic. 



no 



CHAPTER X 

Weather-bound — Sluggish ice field — DiflFerences in 
seasons — Sledging over supplies — A coal depot — 
Sound freezing over — Faxewell dinner on Morning 
— Modest requests — Discovery held for second 
winter — Departure of the Morning — A sad parting 
— ' The Ice King ' — Heavy new ice — Morning nipped 
— An anxious night — Our narrow escape — Sailing 
north — Days close in — Unpleasant weather — 
Arrival at Lyttelton. 

We were weather-bound for two days on 
the Discovery, which was a blessing in disguise 
from one point of view, in that it afforded 
an opportunity to learn, at first hand, the 
interesting details of the splendid work 
accomplished. 

The ice field remained disappointingly 
sluggish during the following weeks, and only 
on one occasion was there any decided 
break-up, when for some unaccountable 
reason three miles of ice broke away in as 
many hours. The dense pack across the 
III 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

head of the sound still remained, and could 
often be seen miraged above the northern 
horizon. Its presence there effectively pre- 
vented a swell from rolling in, which was 
now the only means of breaking up the 
five miles of solid ice between us and Hut 
Point. It was assumed that as long as the 
head of the sound was blocked the chances 
of its breaking away that season were small. 

It will be remembered that in the pre- 
ceding year, the Discovery encountered very 
little pack in this vicinity, which explains, 
no doubt, why the sound had been so free, 
and the ship had been able to penetrate, 
without difficulty, into her snug winter har- 
bour. The theory put forward, that if the ship 
could get into the bay one year she ought 
to get out of it the next, was upset by 
this difference in ice-distribution. Therefore, 
although much optimism was evinced that the 
break-up would eventuate sooner or later, 
it was decided, after Captain Scott's return, 
to sledge over from the Morning the extra 
provisions, fuel, and clothing brought out for 
the Discovery. 

Sledging, then, became the order of the 

112 




SLEDGING GEAR AND SUPPLIES TO ' DISCOVERY 




COAL DEPOT ON GLAriER lONGLE 



LANDING STORES 

day, and continued strenuously through most 
of February. As coal supplies would be 
short after another winter, and as it was 
impossible, in the limited time, to sledge 
this commodity over as well, the Morning 
steamed alongside the handy glacier tongue 
off the Erebus slope, and deposited thirty 
tons, which stock could be drawn from, if 
necessary, the following spring. Evans, Doctor 
Davidson and I, and another party of three 
seamen, formed the transport, and sledged 
bags of coal all day to the upper ridge of 
the glacier. Dragging up the slope was 
stiff work, but the competition was keen, 
and we never permitted the others to out- 
pace our record. 

By the end of February no more ice 
had broken away, and as the open water 
had commenced freezing over at nights, 
it was expedient for the Morning to leave 
before she also got nipped. Our ship could 
do no more now. The Discovery had been 
re-provisioned and amply supplied with fuel. 
Under existing conditions only Nature could 
destroy the imprisoning ice, but as the head 
of the sound remained apparently blocked, 
113 I 



. THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

all hopes for the Discover'fs release were 

practically dispelled. 

Captain Scott held that blasting operations 
on an extensive scale might solve the diffi- 
culty, and in his dispatches he recommended 
strongly that a large supply of gun-cotton be 
sent south the following season in the Mornings 
provided, of course, that the Discovery was held 
for the winter. 

The day fixed for the Mornings departure 
was March 2, which is as late as a vessel of 
limited power can remain in the sound. The 
season closes in very rapidly, and the sea now 
showed marked signs of freezing, with young 
ice forming regularly at nights. 

The evening before sailing the entire Dis- 
covery staff, captain, officers, scientists, and 
crew, sledged over to bid us farewell. A large 
mail was brought, and of the staff of forty-six 
men ten were to return home. Shackleton, 
being considered not fit enough to remain, was 
to his great disappointment included among 
the passengers. 

The combined crews made rather a crowd 
on the little Morning, but by dint of ingenuity 
in improvising extra accommodation, all sat 
114 



A CHOICE OF GIFTS 

down to dinner together. After the repast 
music and singing passed away a pleasant 
evening. Outwardly all assumed happiness, 
but deep down was a feeling akin to melancholy 
in the knowledge that the parting wrench was 
so close at hand. 

Towards the end of the evening chums 
forgathered in the various cabins, and the 
Mornings endeavoured to glean from the Dis- 
covery s what little gifts they would like to 
have brought back to them from the civilised 
world. They thanked us for the kindly 
thought, but, of course, no one required any- 
thing, and implied that they were amply 
satisfied with what they had. We would 
not be turned off like this, however, and after 
insisting, we eventually elicited the most 
modest and extraordinary requests. One man 
suggested a box of crystallised fruit. Another 
fancied a ' cadge ' pipe — ' the largest one avail- 
able, to use only when visiting a neighbouring 
cabin mate.' These and similar desires were 
subsequently gratified. 

The following day was dull and overcast, 
with a biting wind and driving snow. This 
did not tend to enliven one's feelings. After 
IIS I 2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

an early lunch the Discovery party got over 
on the ice with their sledges and dogs, and 
the ice-anchor was hauled on board. Then 
the Morning turned, and amidst stirring 
cheers steamed north. Cheer upon cheer 
went out, the whistle was blown, and the 
ensign dipped ; but it was, nevertheless, a 
truly sorrowful parting. How small the little 
group looked, cheering at the ice edge ! We 
were going back to friends and the comforts 
of civilisation in New Zealand. They were 
remaining to face the dreary Polar night, and 
for twelve long months they would be com- 
pletely cut off from the outer world. But 
they cheered and cheered again, that plucky 
little band, until at length, as the ship pro- 
ceeded northward, the cheering could no 
longer be heard. Then, harnessed to their 
sledges, after one pathetic final wave, they set 
off on their lonely way, and, marching south- 
wards towards their winter home, were soon 
lost to view in the gloom and drift. It was a 
sorrowful parting, sad enough for those who 
went to the north, sadder still for those left in 
the lonely wastes. 

Inspired by this parting, a song, * The Ice 
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^ 



THE ICE KING 

King,' was written, and fittingly conveys the 
impression of that sad time : — 

THE ICE KING 

I 

Down in the deadly stillness, cut oflF from the world, 

alone ; 
Held in the grasp of the Ice King, on the steps 

of his crystal throne ; 
Waiting returning sunshine, waiting the help we'll 

bring. 
Wearily Watching the hours go by, till the Morning 

comes with the spring. 

II 

Bearing the flag of England far o'er the frozen sea, 
Their watchword and their haven, Discovery still 

shall be ; 
Watching the stars in their courses, watching the 

needles swing. 
Doing their duty, not counting the cost, till the 

Morning comes with the spring. 

REFRAIN 

Far away in that cold white land, in the home of 

the great Ice King, 
Braving his fury, daring his wrath. 
When honour and glory are showing the path ; 
God will keep them from harm and scathe — 
Till the Morning comes with the spring. 

117 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

Here, then, was the Morning homeward 
bound, but, alas, without the cherished hope 
of her consort's company. The plans of the 
Expedition had now been materially altered. 
It was supposed that both ships would return 
to New Zealand, and, after the necessary re- 
pairs had been effected, that they would sail 
for England. Fate, however, decreed other- 
wise. 

Owing to the Discovery^s unavoidable de- 
tention, aifairs assumed rather an embarrass- 
ing complexion, as the Expedition funds were 
not sufHcient to meet the unexpected expense 
of at least another year. It was evident that 
under the unfortunate circumstances assist- 
ance must, somehow, be forthcoming to enable 
the Morning to return the following season, 
and if it were impossible even then to extricate 
the Discovery, her gallant crew, at any rate, 
had to be rescued. Nature was so subtle in 
her workings that even at this advanced stage 
in the season there still remained a chance of 
the ice breaking sufficiently to free the Dis- 
covery, but it was such a slender hope that little 
weight was attached to it. 

The gloomy day wore on, and the Morning, 
Ii8 



THE FROZEN SOUND 

after steaming through extensive sheets of 
young ice, arrived at the head of the sound, 
to discover that more intense freezing had 
taken place there. The entrance, or, more 
correctly now, the exit, across from the Erebus 
shore to the western land presented an alarm- 
ing looking sea of smooth new ice about six 
inches in thickness. 

The Morning struggled bravely into this, 
but was soon brought up. With pack ice, 
comprised of brittle, broken-up floes and 
blocks, there is always a hope of chance 
openings to work a ship into, but with newly 
formed ice the smoothly frozen sea presents 
a sludgy and sticky substance which, by 
its adhesive nature, effectively arrests a 
ship's progress. 

Efforts were made all night and the 
following day to push north, but with little 
result. With engines going full ahead for 
half an hour at times, the only appreciable 
effect was a raised mound under the bows 
of forced-up stuff, very similar to thick 
porridge. It was exasperating work, and 
our old bugbear, Beaufort Island, standing 
abruptly out of this smooth surface, two 
119 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

miles distant, seemed like a stolid sentinel, 
jealously guarding the sound. The ship was 
stopped for several hours and remained fast 
in the freezing sea. 

Passing thoughts were neither cheerful 
nor encouraging. Had the ship been nipped 
there she would have suffered certain de- 
struction, as our earlier experience of the 
dangerous currents in this locality only too 
clearly indicated. Granite Harbour was 
abeam, but so far distant as to be practically 
impossible to make under existing conditions. 

But the gravest anxiety was the fact 
that nearly all fuel in the shape of oil, candles, 
and matches had, in sympathetic generosity, 
been given to the Discovery, so that the 
reflection of perhaps a forced winter in 
the Antarctic was inclined to be depressing. 
The position, certainly, did not have a bright 
outlook, and Nature alone had to be relied 
upon to solve the difficulty. 

During the afternoon of the second day 
a blizzard could be seen approaching from 
the south, with drift driving before the 
wind in great clouds over the icy surface. 
The captain considered that, in our em- 

X20 



NATURE'S SUBTLETY 

barrassing situation, this opportunity should 
be embraced, and, risky though it seemed, 
ordered all sail to be set, and await results. 
In a few moments the wind moaned 
fitfully, and rapidly increased into a strong 
steady breeze, with hard driving snow. With 
the first gusts the ship heeled slightly, and 
as the wind strengthened, the sails, bellying 
to their utmost, caused the braces and sheets 
to crack alarmingly with the strain, but 
the ship remained stationary. The engines 
were now making maximum revolutions, 
the masts bending like willows under the 
severe pressure of canvas, and as the blizzard 
grew fiercer and fiercer, with the ship straining 
terribly, headway was just perceptible. It 
was a desperate risk, but it was a tight 
corner. The ship forged ahead slowly, only 
too slowly, churning through the stodgy 
ice, and in the intensity of the anxious 
strain it was momentarily expected that 
the sails would blow out of the bolt-ropes, 
or, worse still, that the entire masts might 
go by the board. 

Indifferent headway was made through 
one fearful hour ; then Nature demonstrated 

121 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

her subtlety in an eerie and unseen power, 
whicli caused the ship, regardless of the 
terrific forward strain, to go astern ! 

This has to be experienced to be realised. 
Imagine the force exerted by a driving gale 
against a full spread of canvas, accelerated 
by a forward thrust of the engines, to be 
thus calmly ignored by some fearful hidden 
agency! Man, undoubtedly, forms a part 
in some almighty scheme, but he cannot fail 
to realise how infinitesimal a unit he really 
is in this mysterious universe. Nature then 
permitted the breath to come freely once 
more by allowing the ship slowly to gather 
headway again. 

A * lane ' of open water being discernible 
along the Beaufort Island shore, the ship 
was gradually and with much difficulty 
worked into it, and, repeating the Franklin 
Island evolution, by narrowly skirting the 
land, the north end of the island was safely 
passed, and, with utterances of heartfelt 
thankfulness from us, the new ice then 
encountered became appreciably thinner. 
For days a sea of filmy young ice of pancake 
formation was steamed through, unmistak- 

122 



MEETING WITH MR. WILSON 

ably proving that the Morning's escape 
was only just accomplished in the nick of 
time. 

The days were now closing in rapidly, 
and the presence of bergs in the darkness 
caused some anxiety; but, provided the 
weather was clear, these great floating dangers 
could readily be detected in the darkest 
night by the weird luminous effect they 
cast. Happily, the ship made good progress, 
and was soon clear of the Antarctic and its 
accompanying terrors. 

Unpleasant weather conditions prevailed 
on the way north, but that was only the 
common lot of the seafarer ; after experiencing 
the rigours of the Polar regions, gales in 
the more civilised latitudes appeared to 
have lost much of their dreaded sting. 

In three weeks' time the Morning once 
again arrived at Lyttelton. A large passenger 
steamer was in company up the harbour, 
and, edging closely, a voice from her bridge 
hailed us saying that Mrs. Wilson was on 
board, and asking that her mail be detained. 
She had journeyed out to New Zealand to 
meet her husband, and it was rather odd 
123 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

that her arrival should coincide with the 
Morning's. 

As may be imagined, a great ovation 
greeted the little vessel, and the genuine 
expression of good cheer and welcome home 
from all quarters was in itself ample com- 
pensation for the trying experiences of the 
past months. Thus, the Morning's im- 
portant mission of seeking and finding the 
Discovery was accomplished, and, although 
that ship herself had not returned, any 
feelings of doubt and anxiety regarding 
the welfare of her brave little band could 
now be dispelled. 



124 



CHAPTER XI 

Winter in Lyttelton — Expedition taken over by 
Admiralty — Terra Nova purchased — Incidents, 
humorous and otherwise — H.M.S. Phoebe assists 
in Morning's overhaul — Second departure from 
New Zealand — Tasmania — Terra Nova at Hobart 
— A unique tow — Transhipping stores — Sixty-third 
anniversary of Erebus and Terror at Hobart — 
Hospitality — An original dancer — Scuffle with a 
sailor — H.M.S. Royal Arthur supplies gun-cotton 
— Departure from Hobart. 

The Morning spent the winter months at 
Lyttelton. Our cabled news caused mixed 
feelings : delight that the Discovery and crew 
were all well and had performed such good 
work, but disappointment at her detention 
and the consequent urgency for funds. The 
cabled reports from England were so con- 
flicting and unsatisfactory that, soon after 
our arrival, the captain proceeded home 
to explain the situation and advise on the 
best means to meet the difficulty. 

125 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

The British Government ultimately took 
over the Expedition, and, under the direction 
of an Antarctic Committee formed at the 
Admiralty, purchased the Newfoundland seal- 
ing vessel ^erra Nova to act as an extra 
relief ship. On the theory that two ships 
are safer than one, this ship was sent to 
accompany the Morning, and Captain Col- 
beck of the Morning was placed in command 
of the Relief Expedition until its arrival 
at McMurdo Sound, when all ships would 
be under Captain Scott's jurisdiction. This 
is the same Terra Nova that was employed 
on Captain Scott's last expedition seven 
years later. 

Our officers stayed for some time at a 
hotel in Christchurch, where we received 
the greatest hospitality from the proprietor 
and his family. One section of the hotel, 
allotted to us, was known as the Morning 
corridor. An institution was formed, for tea 
and toast to be brought up to Shackleton's 
room every morning, and each man met 
there for this eye-opener. Apropos of this, 
we had been to a dance one evening, and one 
of the officers had intended returning to 
126 




SHAC KLKTON ON AKRIVAI. AT l.V T TKI.TON 



A STRANGE TOILETTE 

the ship to sleep, because his various articles 
of clothing, used at the hotel, were at the 
laundry. The last train had gone, however, 
before the dance was over, and he was forced 
to remain in town. Imagine the effect pro- 
duced when this fellow sleepily arrived 
in Shackleton's room next morning for his 
usual tea and toast clothed in a lace- 
trimmed nightdress ! Tea-cups, &c., flew in all 
directions, and an undignified rush ensued 
round the corridors after the unfortunate 
chap. Such a sensational exhibition naturally 
astonished, and yet apparently amused, the 
housemaids. Before turning in, this officer 
had looked through the wardrobe and chest- 
of-drawers on the off chance of a sleeping- 
suit being overlooked, and, strangely enough, 
this garment was discovered. It had been 
left in a drawer by one of the maids. 

Shackleton was practically well on our 
arrival in New Zealand. The night before 
he left for England a farewell dinner was 
given, and is a pleasant recollection. 

The ship was laid up for the time being, 
and a general overhaul commenced. At all 
times during the day interested little groups 
127 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

lined the wharf to view the ship that had ac- 
tually been a voyage to the Polar regions, and 
about which so much had been said in the local 
papers. Remarks of a more or less flattering na- 
ture were often overheard, but on one occasion 
at any rate there was a diversion. A dilapidated 
old man was standing on the wharf and sucking 
at a very worn stumpy clay pipe. After listen- 
ing to the conversation of the crowd for some 
time, he at length broke his silence by re- 
marking : ^ 'Eroes you call 'em ? ' he said. 

* 'Eroes ? ' (I regret to record that at this point 
he contemptuously expectorated on the wharf.) 

* 'Eroes ? Why, the last time the beggars was 
'ere they got my girl that dilly that she give 
up the bloke she was keeping company with ! ' 

Evans was full of original ideas, and the 
following incident is characteristic. Some 
ladies on board to tea one afternoon noticed 
with interest the ' barrel ' at the mast-head- 
One girl said that she wouldn't mind going up 
to it, whereupon Evans took her at her word 
and offered to find another girl who could 
go up to the crow's-nest and down in quicker 
time. The contest was accordingly arranged, 
and on a bright moonlight night soon after- 
128 



A LADIES' RACE 

wards this feat was actually performed. A 
small party comprising the competitors, with 
their respective chaperons, assembled. The 
girls, attired in regulation gymnastic costume, 
left the deck at a given signal, and, each on her 
own side, climbed the rigging with wonderful 
activity. They reached the crow's-nest, got 
inside, and down again on the opposite side of 
the mast. It was done in a very short time, 
and there was little to choose between them. 
An impromptu supper brought a rather original 
evening to a happy conclusion. 

As we were to spend the winter at Lyttel- 
ton, Evans applied to join one of the vessels 
on the station to keep up to date in his naval 
work. He had recently been promoted to 
lieutenant, and was appointed to H.M.S. 
Phcebe, then in New Zealand waters. 

The Admiralty cabled to the commanding 
officer of the station to despatch a man-of-war 
to Lyttelton to assist the Morning in pre- 
paring for her second southern voyage, and 
fortunately the Phoebe was detailed for this. 
Evans, who had only been a few weeks away, 
was in the unique position of representing the 
two ships. He boarded the Morning in charge 
129 K 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

of a party of bluejackets, to overhaul rigging, 
etc., and eventually found himself tallying 
stores J against me in the hold ! The work 
was thoroughly done, and I, being in charge 
of the victualling department, particularly 
appreciated this help. 

We attended innumerable social functions, 
and were always most hospitably treated, 
and even free passes on the railways were 
furnished by the New Zealand Government. 

An incident I often think of occurred one 
evening when Evans and I were chatting in 
the hotel billiard-room. He had been return- 
ing calls that afternoon, and amused me very 
much by describing his experiences with a 
pony and trap he had hired for the occasion. 
Like most sailors, he knew little of horse- 
manship, and his efforts to go * hard-a-port ' 
or * hard-a-starboard ' did not come off as 
readily as he had expected. Leaving one 
house, he had to drive down a long carriage 
sweep bounded by grassy banks. His friends 
stood in the porch to see him away, and, much 
to his consternation and their amusement, the 
pony bolted up one of the banks, and, as he 
declared, * deliberately tried to climb a tree ! ' 
130 



A * STRONG MAN' FLOORED 

This being a race meeting week in Christchurch, 
there were many country visitors in the 
billiard-room. Our conversation was rudely 
interrupted by a burly man who, coming up 
behind Evans, put his arms round him and 
squeezed him with unwelcome familiarity. I 
believe the man knew who we were, but I 
had not seen him before. Evans, of course, 
couldn't see him at all then, but strongly re- 
senting this, he suddenly wheeled about, and 
in a moment the man measured his length on 
the floor. It was cleverly done, and caused a 
scene. Evans fortunately controlled his tem- 
per sufficiently to avoid striking a blow; in 
fact, he calmly grabbed the man by the waist- 
coat and lifted him to his feet again. He 
then quietly told him not to be so familiar in 
future. Totally crestfallen, the man slunk out 
of the room. The company then cheered. They 
explained that the man fancied himself as a 
strong man and amateur pugilist, and always 
* talked big ' of his prowess in that direction. 
They were therefore pleased to see his conceit 
subdued, and especially by one not much more 
than half his size. 

Amongst our varied social amusements 

131 K2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

was hockey, which we often played during the 
winter against a ladies' hockey team. One 
of the club's members, Miss Russell, who was 
also the team's goal-keeper, lived close to the 
playing field. Her people very kindly ex- 
tended a standing invitation to Evans and me 
to lunch with them on match days. As time 
went on they became so hospitable and gener- 
ous that we regarded this place as * home ' 
and popped in at any time. This home life 
was naturally much appreciated. 

Having some relations in Dunedin, I paid 
them several visits during our stay in New 
Zealand. This brings me to record another 
coincidence in my associations with Evans. 
Oddly enough, within one week of each other, 
he and I became engaged to be married, he to 
Miss Russell in Chrietchurch, and I to a friend 
of my relations in Dunedin. 

In due course all arrangements for the 
Expedition were satisfactorily concluded, the 
only disappointment to us being the Ad- 
miralty's decision to send the Morning to 
Hobart, Tasmania, to sail south with the 
Terra Nova from that port. 

Towards the end of October 1903 the 

132 



AN UNLUCKY VOYAGER 

ship was once more ready for sea. About 
a week before leaving our chief officer, 
England, met with an accident by a dray- 
wheel passing over his foot, which very 
nearly caused him to be left behind. Through 
some extraordinary means England was 
frequently ' in the wars,' and the wonder 
of it was that he was never killed. We were 
not a hard-hearted lot, but somehow his mis- 
fortunes always seemed to have a humorous 
side. One day, with about a minute to 
catch a train, he rushed over the ship's rail 
for the shore. Unfortunately he missed his 
footing and fell into the water between 
the ship and the wharf. He had his evening 
dress in a bag with him at the time ! He 
put three hired bicycles out of action during 
our stay in Christchurch, through collision 
with some vehicle or lamp-post ! But his 
most astonishing accident occurred at the 
hotel. The piping under the roof-coping be- 
came blocked with leaves, and, being a most 
obliging man, he promptly volunteered to 
clear it. He shinned up the drain-pipe, 
and, when only a foot or two from the roof, 
the slender piping, not intended for such 

133 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

usage, naturally gave way. Down came 
England with a terrible crash on to a stained- 
glass skylight over the main passage of the 
hotel ! With a leg sticking through each 
side of the framework, and the hall-way 
littered with broken glass, it was indeed a 
pathetic picture. He had on a new suit 
of clothes which was torn in places, but he 
himself wonderfully escaped injury. 

Leaving Lyttelton was now like leaving 
home. We had made life-long friends, and 
the parting was hard. Another thrilling 
send-oif was accorded us as we steamed 
down the harbour. Several long months 
must now be passed before we should again 
be with our good friends, and as the lot 
of those who remain is the harder, they must 
have put in many anxious hours of waiting 
and watching. 

The passage from Lyttelton to Hobart 
was moderately fine and devoid of unusual 
incident. Early in November we steamed 
up the Derwent River and were charmed 
with the beauty of the approaches to Hobart, 
with Mount Wellington towering above the 
picturesque town. On arrival, we found 

134 




England's dowm all ' 



AFTER SIXTY YEARS 

that the Terra Nova had preceded us by 
a few days. Being unavoidably late in 
leaving England, the lost time was made up 
by men-of-war towing her. This was per- 
formed by three men-of-war respectively, 
from Portland to Gibraltar, Gibraltar to 
Suez, and from Suez to Socotra. Experiencing 
fine weather, she then proceeded, unaided, 
across the Indian Ocean, and reached Hobart 
in record time. As far as I remember, this 
unique voyage occupied less time, actually, 
than the regular mail service from England 
to Australia ! 

The Terra Nova brought a large shipment 
of stores for both Discovery and Morning, 
and a considerable time was spent in sorting 
out and transhipping. 

History was repeating itself. Sixty-three 
years before, to the month, two Antarctic 
vessels were at Hobart. These were the 
famous Erebus and Terror, under the com- 
mand of Captain Sir James Clark Ross, R.N. 
He sailed on November 12, 1840, for the 
South Polar regions, and discovered that 
portion of the Antarctic continent which 
was the field of the present Expedition. 

135 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

We were very interested to meet an old 
identity in the Government service who 
remembered the Erebus and Terror at 
Hobart. 

To commemorate the anniversary of 
Captain Ross's departure from Hobart, the 
Mayor and several leading citizens entertained 
the officers of the Morning and Terra 'Nova to 
a cruise and picnic up the beautiful Derwent 
River. 

It may be interesting to mention here 
that, on our return to England the following 
year, we had the honour of meeting the sole 
survivor of the Erebus and Terror Expedition. 
This was the late Sir Joseph Hooker, F.R.S., 
the eminent botanist. In Ross's Expedition 
there was no such thing as photography. 
As an example, however, of how the mind 
is impressed by the awe-inspiring fascination 
of the Antarctic, any photograph shown of 
mountain, cape, or island was readily named 
by Sir Joseph. 

The people of Hobart were extremely 

good to us, and spared no pains to make 

our visit a welcome one. On the King's 

birthday we attended a levee at Government 

136 



AN ORIGINAL DANCER 

House, and the Governor, Sir Arthur 
Havelock, presided at an official reception 
tendered to us. Although not exactly the 
season, several dances were arranged in 
our honour. 

Owing to his accident in Christchurch, 
England reluctantly missed several of these 
functions. A dance given by some special 
friends of his was, however, too much for 
him to resist. Strangely enough, he was 
the only representative from our ship. Some 
of us were working on board that night. 
The idea of England's going to a dance with 
a game leg and a crutch was too much for 
us, and our curiosity was so much aroused 
that we went along to see how on earth 
he was getting on. Stealthily groping our 
way through the garden, we could see the 
revelries through a large open door, without 
being seen ourselves. The Lancers was in 
progress, and to our intense amusement 
we caught sight of England, ' going strong,* 
hopping round and round on one leg, with 
a supporting stick in his hand ! Our laughter 
was so hysterical that we were discovered, 
and, much to England's consternation, we 

137 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

appeared on the scene. For many months 
afterwards his leg, although better, suffered 
a good deal of pulling. 

The Terra Nova's crew was comprised 
chiefly of Arctic whalers, rough and hardy 
men. For some reason they were not very 
friendly with our crew, though the antipathy 
wore off later on in the common hardships 
of the South. 

I have to record yet another pugilistic 
encounter in my associations with Evans. 
We were working late on board one night, 
and had just turned in. The other officers 
were on shore. In a little while we heard 
a man on the wharf using some very bad 
language, and the gist of his foul remarks 
was that the Morning and her crew were not 

worth a ! We put up with it for a 

few minutes, when Evans suggested that 
he ought to be suppressed. We felt certain 
that he was one of the Terra Novaks men, 
and rightly guessed him to be a very powerful 
man known as * The Life-Guardsman.' He 
had been a soldier once. We went on deck 
as we were, in pyjamas, and saw the man 
standing on the wharf alone, close to the 

138 



A SCUFFLE WITH A SAILOR 

ship's rail. We told him to go back to 
his own ship, whereupon he swore dreadfully 
and defied anyone to move him. As we 
approached he drew out a knife attached 
to a lanyard round his neck. This was too 
much to overlook, and we sprang at him 
together. The man had, of course, been 
drinking. In spite of his strength, he couldn't 
hope to get away with two sober and energetic 
athletes. He was soon flat on his back, 
and got a severe thrashing. Our watchman, 
alarmed by the scuffling, jumped on to the 
wharf with a lantern and illuminated the 
scene. When the worst struggles had sub- 
sided Evans took the man by the shoulders 
and I by the legs, and we dragged him along 
the wharf to the Terra Nova. Swinging 
him then, in a one, two, three fashion, we 
hurled him over the rail, and he dropped 
with a thud on the deck of his ship. The 
unavoidable disturbance awakened the Terra 
Nova's captain, who also appeared in pyjamas. 
We apologised for dealing so severely with 
one of his crew, but the captain, being used 
to whalers, promptly ordered him to be 
locked up for the night. I don't think ' The 

139 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

Life-Guardsman ' ever knew who, or what, 
struck him ! 

H.M.S. Royal Arthur, then flagship on 
the Australian Station, arrived at Hobart 
just before our departure, and supplied both 
ships with a large quantity of gun-cotton. 
This was in accordance with Captain Scott's 
request, to facilitate the freeing of the Dis- 
covery. By the first week in December the 
ships were fully loaded and ready for sea. 

After a * send-oif,' almost as enthusiastic 
as from New Zealand, the ships left Hobart 
on December 5, 1903. We anchored for 
the night, and sailed finally at dawn next 
day. As the ships steamed out, the break- 
ing day over the peaceful harbour and sur- 
rounding beautiful hillsides made one of the 
finest pictures I have ever seen. 



140 



CHAPTER XII 

Southward — Terra Nova and Morning in company — 
A narrow shave — The ice pack again — Second 
Antarctic Christmas — Scott Island sighted — ' Dead 
reckoning ' — Admiralty Range — Deceptive dis- 
tances — Fascination of the Antarctic — A quaint 
group — Sea-leopard hunt — View of South Victoria 
Land — Franklin Island — Difference in pack dis- 
tribution — McMurdo Sound — Sighting Discovery — 
Extensive sheet of field ice — Hopeless prospects. 

Voyages to the Antarctic through the stormy 
Southern Ocean can never be called pleasant, 
but the second voyage to the Far South was 
at any rate less lonely, owing to the comfort 
of the Terra Nova's company. We steered 
away to the S.E. from Tasmania, and kept 
within a few miles of each other throughout 
the voyage, exchanging noon positions daily. 

The Terra Nova was a better steamer, and 

could always overhaul us, but under sail alone 

the Morning had the advantage. Only once 

during the thirty days' journey to McMurdo 

141 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' 

Sound did the ships part company, and that 
was for a few hours one night during a heavy 
gale. 

The Terra Nova, much to our secret dis- 
pleasure, used to describe a circle round the 
Morning each twenty-four hours, clearly de- 
monstrating her superior speed. At dawn 
she was on our quarter, by noon abreast of us 
to signal her position, and at dusk ahead some- 
where, on one or other bow. 

One afternoon, thinking, I suppose, that 
they could always ' make rings ' round the 
little Morning, the Terra Nova's people en- 
deavoured to run their ship close across our 
bow. This nearly resulted in a serious mis- 
hap. A fresh breeze was blowing, and both 
ships were under sail alone. The Terra Nova 
being the weather ship was the giving-way 
vessel, but she suddenly headed across our 
bows. It is imprudent to do this at any time, 
and especially in this circumstance, when both 
ships were under sail and the Morning was 
known to be the faster sailer. She bore down 
on us so closely that we had to make a decisive 
alteration in our course to avoid a collision. 
The more we kept away the more, for some 
142 



A CLOSE SHAVE 

extraordinary reason, did she head us off, 
until we had reached that point when we were 
almost ' caught by the lee.' She skimmed 
across our bows by the barest margin, or, more 
correctly, by no margin at all, because our 
bowsprit grazed her port quarter-boat. A very 
little closer and our bowsprit might have 
been carried away, which would have caused 
more disastrous results. Carcasses of mutton 
hung on the span between the Terra Novaks 
boats' davits, and the humorous chief officer 
of that vessel, standing on the poop, seemingly 
unconcerned about anything else, shouted to 
us to ' mind the mutton.' Fortunately there 
was no accident, but it was a close shave. 

On December 23 the first ice was sighted, 
and on Christmas Day the pack was entered. 
The pack was, therefore, met considerably 
further north than experienced the previous 
year, and this accordingly set us speculating. 
Either the season was earlier, and consequently 
more advanced, or the winter had been more 
severe, resulting in a wider pack area. 

Christmas Day was spent in the customary 
fashion, and our good friends in New Zealand 
had supplied the ship's company with many 

H3 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

welcome delicacies. Before leaving New Zea- 
land Evans's fiancee gave me a number of 
letters to hand over to Mm on certain dates, 
and the first was a Christmas greeting. At 
intervals throughout the whole voyage I 
had letters for him, and always placed them 
for him to find unexpectedly. My little joke 
was never to hand one to him personally, 
and, although he was pretty certain that 
I was in charge of them, he could never 
really tell, because I always assumed igno- 
rance. On one occasion I was rather exer- 
cised in my mind how to get a letter 
delivered to him on a certain date. He was 
away sledging, and at that time the distance 
was so great to the Discovery that a journey 
to a half-way camp and back occupied two 
days. I managed my little duty by giving 
the letter to a sailor in his sledge party, and 
the following morning during breakfast at the 
camp he gave it to Evans. It was a quaint 
idea, but it had given Evans's fiancee pleasure 
to work up the little scheme, and I was glad 
to be able to carry it out satisfactorily. 

On Christmas night Captain McKay of the 
Terra Nova and his chief ofiicer dined on the 
144 



TO BED BY DAYLIGHT 

Morning. The pack was not very dense, but 
the fog had set in, and we were waiting for 
it to clear. Captain McKay entertained us 
very much with tales of the Arctic and exciting 
whaling experiences. It was the wee sma' 
hours before the meeting broke up, but as it 
was now perpetual day one felt reluctant to 
go to bed in the daylight. Perhaps this may 
be more my own feelings. I was born and 
lived some years in the West Indies, where 
twilight is unknown. The day is practically 
from 6 A.M. to 6 p.m. My parents first took 
me to England when I was eight years old, 
and on arrival we stayed for a few days at Ply- 
mouth. It was about the middle of June, and 
I can remember how puzzled I was to know 
why it was necessary for me to go to bed before 
the sun had set. My elder brother and I used 
to creep out of our beds and gaze longingly and 
sadly at the people walking about on the Hoe 
while the band played, quite ignorant of 
the fact that it was, perhaps, nine o'clock at 
night. My first impression of England has 
been a lasting one, and, despite the childish 
disappointment of spending daylight hours in 
bed, I have always loved going to Plymouth. 
145 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

After working two days in the pack 
Scott Island was sighted, about eighteen 
miles to the eastward. We were quite 
satisfied to view it from a good offing, as 
we had not forgotten our narrow escape 
from disaster there a year before. In the 
previous season the pack was met further 
south even than Scott Island. This year 
dense pack extended well north of it. 
Although heavy pack was occasionally forced 
through, it was apparent that the present 
season's ice was not as dense as the last. 
Much more fog and falling snow were ex- 
perienced in the pack, and for five days the 
sun was obscured. The ship's position during 
this time was determined by ' dead reckon- 
ing,' as it is called, and a difficult thing 
to gauge owing to the erratic courses and 
distances made. The sun at last broke 
through on December 30 and cleared away 
all fog. By observation we found, to our 
satisfaction, that the ship's position was only 
fifteen miles out from our reckoning, not at 
all bad work for five days' approximation. 

On New Year's Day (1904) the pack 
was cleared, and that evening the Admiralty 
146 



THE CALL OF THE SOUTH 

Range was observed, distant about one 
hundred and twenty miles. Distances are 
deceptive in the Antarctic. In clear weather 
the rarefied atmosphere, assisted by the 
earth's flattened surface and the great 
altitudes of many of the mountain ranges, 
enables one to see peaks at astonishing 
distances. 

It was fascinating to see these wonderful 
mountains again. We had only seen them 
on our search cruise along the coast the 
year before, and yet there was no difficulty 
in picking out and naming each peak. There 
is undoubtedly a wonderful attraction in 
these regions, whatever it may be. Men 
go to the remote corners of the earth, suffer 
untold privations, and face terrible risks ; 
yet, knowing what is awaiting them, they 
return repeatedly. It may be to satisfy 
the desire to overcome obstacles which 
asserts itself, or a fascination may lie in 
endeavouring to unravel hidden mysteries. 
I am satisfied in my own mind, after two 
cruises in the Antarctic, that a charm certainly 
exists, which, perhaps, can only be described 
as ' the call of the South.' Alpinists have 

147 L 2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING * 

this fascination. The call to the mountains 
is as irresistible to them. 

So little drift ice was passed after clearing 
the pack that it was quite easy to proceed 
for long stretches under sail alone. Of course 
we were well off shore and making direct 
for McMurdo Sound, assuming that the 
Discovery must still be there. 

One day we came upon a large, rather 
rotten floe on which was a unique Ant- 
arctic group. It comprised three sea-leopards, 
ten crab-eaters, four or five giant petrels, 
numerous penguins, skua gulls, snow and 
brown-backed petrels. Possibly the scarcity 
of ice caused so many animals to gather 
on the one floe. The ship ranged alongside 
the floe, and naturally a general scattering 
ensued. The sea-leopards, being very fine 
specimens, were the chief object of our 
attention. Several of us blazed away with 
rifles, and, strangely enough, only one died 
on the floe. This was Evans's mark, and 
he and Morrison went away in the boat to 
secure the prize. The floe, being in a rotting 
condition, was difficult to get on to, and 
a swell lapping against it did not improve 
148 



PURSUED BY A WHALE 

matters. In due course a rope was slung 
round the animal, and being of such an 
enormous size and weight, it had to be towed 
to the ship. The boat was then ridiculously 
* by the stern.' Evans and Morrison struggled 
with the oars, and the boat's bow, being in 
the air, presented a most comical picture. 
But the most exciting part of the leopard 
hunt was the sudden appearance of a huge 
rorqual whale, which followed the boat, 
evidently interested in the dark object being 
towed in the water ! I don't know whether 
rorquals attack seals or not, but the presence 
of a great whale under the stern of the boat 
was not at all appreciated by the oarsmen, 
who were expecting their end momentarily ! 

Clouds hung low over Coulman Island 
as we passed it, but the lower portion of 
the island was clear enough to show that 
there was no pack ice banked up against 
it. This was ample proof of the difference 
in the ice distribution this season. 

The next day was beautifully clear, and 

the mountainous aspect of South Victoria 

Land was striking. To the south of Wood 

Bay the extinct volcano. Mount Melbourne, 

149 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

stood out clearly, and the land was visible 
to the northward nearly as far as Cape 
Adare. 

Early on January 4 Franklin Island was 
sighted, and by noon the ships stopped half 
a mile off the Penguin Beach. The contrast 
between the two seasons was very marked. 
Strenuous efforts with heavy pack, and a 
providential escape from the island, attended 
the last visit, but on this occasion no ice was 
in sight. The day was perfect, not a cloud in 
the sky, and the temperature rising to 40° was 
comparatively warm. A party landed and 
collected penguins' eggs and rock specimens. 
So clear was it that Mounts Erebus and 
Terror and Beaufort Island were visible to 
the southward. 

As conditions appeared so favourable, we 
shaped a course from Franklin Island direct 
to McMurdo Sound. It was intended to call 
at Cape Crozier first for news, but there was 
no reason now why we should. We could 
return there if by any extraordinary chance 
the Discovery had left the winter harbour. 

On approaching Beaufort Island loose 
pack was met. The floes were very heavy and 
150 



CHANGED ICE CONDITIONS 

hummocked, but the ships worked through 
and into the Sound without much difficulty. 
On January 5, therefore, McMurdo Sound 
was entered, but progress was retarded by 
occasional belts of heavy pack. Soon the old 
familiar landmarks. Castle Rock and Observa- 
tion Hill, were seen. The first sign of civilisa- 
tion was a flag on a staff on one of the islets 
south of Cape Royds. 

Soon after noon the Discovery's masts were 
seen over Hut Point. It was hard to imagine 
that nearly twelve months had elapsed since 
we were last there. 

But there was one rather upsetting con- 
dition since our last visit. The Discovery 
was then imprisoned by field ice extending 
about five miles to the north. To our dismay 
we were now brought up against the field at a 
distance of about eighteen miles from Hut 
Point. The field was not rotten-looking either, 
and was eighteen inches thick at the outer 
edge. What, then, was its thickness further 
in ? Our disappointment was intense, and 
hopes fell to zero. The good old Discovery 
was evidently to be a fixture in the Antarctic 
for all time. Our arrival in the sound three 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

weeks earlier in the season was the only slight 
consolation, but the prospects were apparently- 
hopeless all the same. With much eagerness 
and anxiety, therefore, we awaited the first 
arrivals from the Discovery. 



152 



CHAPTER XIII 

Captain Scott and Dr. Wilson — Astonishment at two 
ships — Doubtful chances of freeing Discovery — 
Evans and I at Scott's camp — An appetising 
' hoosh ' — Charm of an apple — Dangerous moving 
pack — Preparing to abandon Discovery — Sledging 
valuables to relief ships — Anxious days — Blasting 
operations — Snow bUndness — Sailing orders issued — 
Depressing thoughts — Gale in Ross Sea — Extensive 
break-up of field — Visit to Discovery — Influence 
of swell at Discovery — Strenuous blasting — Sudden 
break-up of ice — Exciting rescues — Stirring hours 
— A struggle for priority — Dramatic arrival in 
winter harbour. 

Being eighteen miles distant from Hut Point, 
it was difficult at first to know just what to do. 
Sledges were prepared and mails and parcels 
sorted out ready for a journey across to the 
Discovery. A sharp look-out was kept con- 
tinuously on Hut Point for an approaching 
party, but there were no signs of movement 
in that direction. 

About 4 P.M. two men were seen approach- 
ing the Morning. They might have been from 

153 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

the Terra Nova, but on close scrutiny through 
our best telescope we could tell by their general 
attire that they were Discovery men. But 
how they had travelled eighteen miles in this 
short time was puzzling to us. In a little 
while they drew near to the ship. I lowered 
a ladder from the bow to the ice, and they 
scrambled on board. It was not until they 
reached the rail that I could properly recog- 
nise our old and admired friends Captain 
Scott and Dr. Wilson. The joy at seeing 
them again was great, and for the moment, 
through some emotion or other, words of 
greeting refused to come. But Captain Scott, 
with a telescope under his arm, was ever the 
typical naval officer, in spite of his ragged 
and weather-beaten appearance. Shaking 
hands warmly, he asked : ' Is Captain Colbeck 
on board ? ' He might really have been calling 
on the captain of another ship in a squadron. 
Dr. Wilson was more weather-beaten. As 
soon as they got down on the deck the 
whole crew mustered and gave three ringing 
cheers. The visitors then shook hands all 
round in thanks for the stirring welcome. 
Captain Scott went aft to the chart-house 




CAPTAIN SCOTT AMI CAPTAIN COLBECK 



A VISIT FROM SCOTT AND WILSON 

with our captain, and Wilson had a very- 
interested audience in the ward-room. 

They were camping only four and a half 
miles away, at Cape Royds, watching the ice 
edge to see what breaking-away was taking 
place. Turning out that morning, they sighted 
the two ships half-way down the sound, and 
at first they could not believe their eyes. Why 
two ships, they wondered ? They expected 
the Morning to return some time that month, 
but what was the other ship for ? At first 
they thought it must be an optical illusion ; 
then perhaps it might be a stray whaler ; or, 
more likely still, the German Expedition ship 
Gauss, which was in the Antarctic then, and 
possibly had met the Morning and accom- 
panied her. But the correct meaning of the 
Terra Nova's presence never for a moment 
entered their minds. 

Ever thoughtful of others, they immedi- 
ately set off for the ' half-way ' camp, ten 
miles south, close to the Delbridge Islets, 
and instructed the party there to take 
their sledges to the Morning, so as to get 
the mails away to the Discovery that day. 
Tramping back another ten miles, they 

155 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

arrived at the Morning, as mentioned, 
about 4 P.M. 

Being in charge of the mails, I was soon 
diving into the bags for Captain Scott's 
and Dr. Wilson's letters. The mail-room 
was just off the chart-house, and I could not 
help overhearing the conversation between 
the two captains. I was delighted to hear 
that all were well on the Discovery, and that 
some remarkable sledge journeys had been 
made. Our captain asked what the prospects 
were of the Discovery* s being freed that year. 
Captain Scott replied — to use his very words 
— *Not a cat's chance.' This was very dis- 
quieting news to hear ; but, as he explained, 
he had been camping on the shore close by 
for the last four days, and not a yard of ice 
had broken away in that time. He estimated 
the field to extend for eighteen miles from 
where we were to Hut Point. The Discovery^ s 
chances of getting out looked very remote, 
far more even than last season, when only 
five or six miles detained her. Our report 
of the open water in the Ross Sea, however, 
cast a small ray of hope on the otherwise 
gloomy outlook. 

.56 



THE 'DISCOVERY' TO BE ABANDONED 

When Captain Scott received the de- 
spatches from the Admiralty he was naturally 
much upset. The instructions were that if 
it were impossible to free the Discovery she 
must be abandoned, and her crew, with all 
records, instruments, specimens, etc., were 
to be brought back by the two relief ships. 
The Discovery had been a home to them 
for over three years, and it need hardly 
be said that not one man was willing to 
abandon her. Matters had looked so hope- 
less before our arrival that parties had been, 
and were still, out securing seals and penguins 
for another winter's food. But these orders 
altered their plans. 

The Discovery was, I learned, encased 
in ice fourteen feet thick, as compared with 
ten feet when we left her last year. All 
sledge parties were back. For a fortnight 
the entire ship's company, including scientists, 
were at the ' half-way ' camp, engaged in 
sawing a way through the ice. This work 
was kept going continuously in watches 
night and day, but as the results were so 
trifling sawing operations were abandoned. 
The ice cut through was seven feet thick. 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

As Captain Scott and Dr. Wilson stayed 
on board that night, Evans and I were 
permitted to go over to their tent for a day 
or two. We packed some provisions, in- 
cluding a few excellent Tasmanian apples. 
Captain Scott was amused at this, and told 
us that we could give a great treat to one 
at least of his men, who was due to arrive 
with provisions next day at his camp. On 
his recent sledge journey towards the Magnetic 
Pole over the western mountains Captain 
Scott was accompanied by Petty Officer 
Evans (now, alas, also dead) and Stoker 
Lashly. On their return they were weather- 
bound for several days in their tent by a 
severe blizzard up the mountains, and, as 
food was scarce, the outlook was bad. Captain 
Scott asked his companions one day what 
they would fancy most at that moment if 
their wish could be gratified, and Lashly 
promptly replied : ' A good old English apple, 
sir ! ' P.O. Evans's request was also for 
some trivial thing, and Captain Scott fancied 
a sixpenny jar of Devonshire cream ! The 
simple tastes of men in such sore straits is 
marvellous. Therefore, when Captain Scott 
158 




CAPTAIN SCOTT's TENT, CAPE ROYDS 



W^J- ' ^.' 




AKKIVAI. OK MAIL FROM DISCOVERY* 



[Seep. 16s. 



THE TALE OF AN APPLE 

saw the apples he told us this story, which 
we bore in mind. 

Evans and I set out about i a.m. and 
reached the camp at Cape Royds about 
4 A.M. Hundreds of penguins surrounded 
the little green tent and kept up an incessant 
cawing. This was disconcerting until one 
became used to it. We had a warm drink 
and turned in. After two sledging seasons 
the sleeping-bags were not exactly beds 
of roses, and the reindeer hair which lined 
them inside was falling out. Every article 
in the tent, indeed, seemed associated with 
reindeer hair, and a very annoying dis- 
comfort was to awaken occasionally with a 
mouthful of the nasty stuff ! 

Well on in the forenoon, while we were 
still in our bags, we heard voices a long way 
off. Surmising this to be the party with 
stores for the camp, we lay low, like Brer 
Rabbit, and awaited their arrival. Crunch, 
crunch came the footsteps along the snowy 
surface, closer and closer, and, on reaching 
the top of the slope, the party hailed. As 
we made no reply, they opened the flap 
of the tent, and were greatly astonished 

159 



. THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

to see the two new occupants. P.O. Evans 
and Stoker Lashly were two of this party of 
four. We turned out, rolled up the bags, and 
the six of us managed to crowd into the little 
tent. We sat round the primus stove, which 
Lashly soon had under way. A few strips 
of bacon, mixed up with stale oatmeal and 
seasoned with a generous amount of onion 
powder, soon sizzled in the cooker. The 
aroma was particularly pleasing, and we 
all dug into the ' hoosh ' with much relish, 
despite the unavoidable fourth ingredient 
of reindeer hair ! The snow in the outer 
cooker soon thawed and boiled, and tea 
followed. When the ' wreck ' was cleared 
away, and everything put ship-shape, Evans 
groped into his sleeping-bag and produced 
a large apple. Words absolutely failed 
Lashly ! It was quite pathetic. His eyes 
grew larger and larger as he gazed from 
the apple to Evans, and from Evans to 
the apple. I expect he thought it was an 
illusion of some sort. Fortunately we had 
an apple for each man, so there was no 
disappointment. Lashly fondled his apple 
lovingly for a long time before eating it, 
1 60 



PERVERSE CURRENTS 

but when he did eat it, he ate it thoroughly, 
nothing being left — skin, core, pips, all went. 
Lashly considered this quite a red-letter 
day in his life. 

The party now left for the Mornings and 
that evening Dr. Wilson returned, and made 
us an excellent meal of fried seal liver. Evans 
and I rambled all over the cape during our 
stay, and collected granite stones and 
penguins' eggs. The ' 'Evanly Twins ' 
returned to the Morning next day, having 
had a very enjoyable spell at Cape Royds. 
We took two baby penguins back for our 
doctor. 

During the first few days the field ice 
remained stationary. The only ice move- 
ment was the heavy pack, through which 
we had passed at the head of the sound. 
A current setting south during this time 
was indicated by the movement of the heavier 
floes and small bergs. Despite the prevailing 
south-east winds, they frequently set into 
the sound at a considerable rate. It was 
uncanny to see these great floating masses 
* working to windward ' without any difficulty. 
As a result of this both Terra Nova and 

l6l M 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

Morning received some nasty squeezes against 
the field edge. Occasionally we had to get 
under weigh to avoid the heavier pieces. 
One night a continuous pack set into the 
sound. After rounding Cape Bird, it set 
directly to the ice edge, then along the edge 
for some miles, and eventually disappeared, 
setting to the north-west on the other side 
of the sound. There was no protection for 
the ships, and we spent a most unpleasant 
time with this dangerous stream of ice rubbing 
along the ship's side. Being against a solid 
body on the other side, there was no give 
at all. The ships, therefore, had to stand 
it as best they could, and at times the severe 
pressure caused the stout oak beams to 
buckle. We were much relieved when this 
uncanny motion ceased. By measuring the 
thickness of the field ice at intervals of a 
few days, it was proved that it was appreci- 
ably thawing. Cracks appeared from time 
to time, and large strips of ice broke away 
occasionally. This meant much trying work 
for the ships in continually steaming round 
and re-anchoring to the new edge. Very 
severe blizzards made matters worse on the 
162 



BLASTING OPERATIONS 

ships, but effectively kept the sound free of 
dangerous pack. 

As the ice was going out so slowly Captain 
Scott soon decided to sledge all specimens, 
instruments, etc., to the relief ships. The 
Discovery men sledged the stuff from their 
ship to the half-way camp, and the loads 
were brought the rest of the way by the 
relief ships' parties. The distance during 
the earlier stages necessitated a two days' 
journey. Evans was in charge of the sledge 
parties from our ships, and I had the less 
interesting work of loading, and discharging 
the sledges on their return. 

After the first week blasting was com- 
menced. The explosions blew out large areas 
with apparently little result. From the great 
concussion, however, cracks generally ap- 
peared, and an ocean swell was required to 
completely sever the cracked portions. In 
the previous season the head of the sound 
was so densely blocked with ice that no swell 
was felt during our stay. This year, however, 
so little pack was met with outside that our 
hopes ran high that a swell would occasionally 
find its way into the sound. 

163 M2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

During the whole of January the ice was 
cracked by blasting, and slight swells coming 
in at times gradually broke away ten miles of 
the field. By January 31 we were, therefore, 
eight miles from the Discovery, and on that 
day we received a note from Captain Scott 
saying that for the first time in over two years 
a swell was felt on the ship. Much to their 
delight, the ship was working in her icy bed 
and rising a foot now and then. This was 
good news indeed, but eight miles was still a 
long way, and with the very limited season it 
was a large area to break away. 

We were by this time south of the glacier 
snout off the Erebus shore, the glacier being 
ten miles from Hut Point. The Morning ran 
alongside the glacier one day, and took on 
board the coal left there the previous year. 
The Discovery had only taken a few tons from 
the stock. 

As the ice broke away from the sea edge, 
so the half-way camp had to be shifted south 
to equalise the distance between Discovery 
and relief ships. The sledge journeys be- 
came proportionately quicker, though bad 
weather caused repeated delays. 
164 



STILL SIX MILES 

On February 3 we were six miles from Hut 
Point. Captain Scott was naturally very 
anxious, and thought the ice was going out too 
slowly. The season was advancing rapidly, 
and although the temperatures were good they 
might fall at any time and start freezing the 
sea again. 

The Discovery was being gradually dis- 
mantled. All valuables were being sledged 
over to our ships. Her men were very low- 
spirited at the prospects of having to leave 
their good old ship, and were hoping against 
hope that she would be freed at the last 
minute. We received most pathetic letters 
from them, per dog-team mail service, recently 
inaugurated. We kept them posted in our 
doings at the outer edge, reporting every 
hundred yards that broke away. 

On February 5 blasting operations were 
carried out on an extensive scale. Captain 
Scott started them going himself. The ice 
was now from five to six feet thick, and very 
solid indeed to dig holes through. Holes were 
dug in a direct line towards Hut Point, at 
intervals of sixty to eighty yards. All kinds 
of implements were improvised for this work. 

i6s 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

Owing to the cold the picks and crowbars 
became brittle and frequently broke. How- 
ever, it was astonishing what ingenuity pre- 
vailed, and bars were made out of any odd 
pieces of iron and steel and pointed in some 
serviceable way. The hole-digging parties 
suffered much from snow blindness in the 
incessant glare. A hole usually took from 
three to four hours to dig. At times this work 
was carried on in reliefs for a day or two at a 
stretch. 

Captain Scott was with us until February 9, 
when he returned to the Discovery, He then 
started blasting round his own ship, and she 
appeared free, with the exception of the pro- 
peller aperture. The propeller was in a 
solid block ten or twelve feet thick, and 
it was risky to blast too closely in case of 
damaging that vital part of the ship. 

A few anxious days now passed. Very 
little ice broke away, and the temperatures 
were falling. The hole-party worked solidly, 
and soon had holes ready for over one 
mile in. 

On February 11 Captain Scott issued our sail- 
ing orders. The Morning was to sail for New 
166 



THE DARKEST HOUR 

Zealand on 27th inst., taking the scientists. 
The Terra Nova, being the more powerful 
steamer, was to remain until the second 
week in March. If the Discovery were not 
freed by then she would be abandoned, and 
the remainder of her party would return in 
the Terra Nova. These orders were felt alike 
by all to be almost a death-warrant. If 
Nature would only come to our rescue now ! 
We could do nothing without her assistance. 
Oddly enough, on this very afternoon a change 
occurred. Long wisps of cirrus clouds hung 
over the top of Mount Erebus. We assumed 
that a gale was blowing on the other side in 
the Ross Sea, and sure enough, in a few hours, 
a long grateful swell came down the sound. 
The blasting was continued now with alacrity, 
and large floes broke away with every ex- 
plosion. It was a thrilling sight. About 
6 P.M. I went over with a note from our 
captain to Captain Scott, informing him of 
the good news, and requesting him to send 
all available hands to assist. A ' lake ' of 
open water extended off Hut Point, caused 
no doubt by thaw, over a known two-fathom 
shoal off the point. I had consequently 
167 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

to climb over the point and down the other 
side to the winter harbour. 

Being the herald of such good tidings, 
I was greeted with cheers, and Captain Scott 
immediately despatched Royds with a party. 
They worked all night. At midnight I went 
up to Hut Point, and could hardly believe 
my eyes. The ships were not three miles 
off ! I returned to the ship next day, and 
found that the swell had almost stopped. 
The hole-party, however, worked away with 
redoubled energy, in anticipation of the 
next swell, which surely would be the 
grand finale ! The ice broke up so rapidly 
the night before that the half-way camp 
went out to sea on a floe ! The Terra Nova 
steamed after it and rescued it with some 
difficulty. 

Captain Scott came out again, and was 
highly satisfied with the fine break-up. 
Naturally, we were all rather excited by 
this time, but still wondered if our efforts 
would be successful. Whilst a swell pre- 
vailed, hopes were high, but as soon as it 
subsided things assumed a different aspect. 
Two miles of ice were a mere nothing to 
i68 




AN OCCASIONAI, INCIDENT- ADRIFT ON THE SEA-ICE 



SUSPENSE 

eighteen ; but two miles is, nevertheless, 
a terribly long way in a falling season. Only 
a quarter of a mile broke away during the 
next two days. If the temperatures were 
to fall suddenly our chance was lost. This 
was quite possible. At this time during 
the previous season minus temperatures 
were of daily occurrence, and the sea had 
started freezing over the sound. The sus- 
pense was horrible, and without Nature's 
assistance we were helpless. 

Sunday, February 14, was boisterous. 
A strong, biting, easterly wind blew, accom- 
panied by heavy squalls with driving snow- 
drift. It was unpleasant working on the 
ice, but time was limited now, and discom- 
forts must be faced. Parties worked all 
day digging holes, and several successful 
blasts were made. The large floes soon 
broke away completely and drifted to the 
north-west. 

As the afternoon wore on the weather 
moderated, and the ice was noticeably thinner. 
At 5.30 P.M. a wonderful thing happened. 
The entire ice field suddenly cracked in 
all directions as far as we could see. It was 
169 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

eerie in its suddenness. The great work of 
the moment was to rescue the men and gear. 
They were hailed to return on board at 
once. This was attended with much diffi- 
culty, owing to the floes breaking up into 
such small pieces and drifting away rapidly. 
The men were hauled on board just in time, 
but a lot of gun-cotton and tools were lost. 
It was rather pathetic to see the last few 
holes, laboured at in the blizzard, drifting 
out to sea in the floes ! The ice rapidly 
decreased in thickness from four feet to 
two. At 6 P.M. the wind fell light and the 
sun shone brightly. Both ships now worked 
with much vigour, charging between the 
floes to force a way through. Back we went, 
astern for some distance, and then would 
come up with a full-speed rush, crashing 
desperately into the rotting floes and pushing 
them apart. And so it went on for some 
hours — astern and ahead — with grim deter- 
mination, each charge gaining on the last. 
The excitement was intense. It was now 
certain that we could reach the winter harbour, 
and it resolved itself into a sporting struggle 
for priority. The Terra Nova was the more 
170 



THE LAST RACE 

powerful, but by strategy we kept them 
on the alert. Somehow we got as far ahead 
at each charge. The Discovery' s people had 
assembled on Hut Point — now not half a 
mile away ! — and witnessed this great and 
final race for our goal. The Terra Nova 
taught us a useful wrinkle. We noticed 
that she rolled heavily owing to her crew 
running from side to side at given signals. 
We quickly realised the advantage of this 
in working the ship, corkscrew fashion, 
through the ice. We therefore adopted this 
plan ourselves, and very shortly both ships 
were rolling violently and charging away 
at the same time. We shouted ourselves 
hoarse with excitement as we rushed from 
side to side of the ship. I can safely state 
that this is the most thrilling and sensational 
experience in my life. At lo p.m. the open 
water off Hut Point was but one hundred 
yards off ! We had been at a great tension 
for some hours now, but we were not tired. 
Rest could be had another time. This 
struggle must be fought through, now or 
never. 

At 10.30 P.M. the final crack was made, 
171 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

and the lerra Nova had the good luck to 
be charging ahead. The little Morning stuck 
to it doggedly, but her chance was missed 
by a few seconds. The Terra Nova pushed 
in at full speed, and as the floes parted 
she gradually gathered way and steamed 
victoriously into the open water off the point. 
The Morning, steaming in the wake, arrived 
immediately afterwards. 

As the ships passed Hut Point a grand 
rousing British cheer broke from the gallant 
band on the point, and as we responded, 
with a cheer that shook our very frames 
with an indescribable thrill, a Union Jack 
fluttered out bravely from the staff on Hut 
Point. 



172 



CHAPTER XIV 

Preparations for freeing Discovery — Morning adrift — 
Terrific explosions — Discovery released — Thrilling 
scene — A severe blizzard — Discovery driven ashore 
— Heavy weather — ^Trying experiences — Ships along- 
side glacier snout — Transhipping coal and stores — 
' Follow me ' — Start of homeward voyage. 

The dramatic entry of the relief ships into 
the winter harbour was deeply impressive. 
For two years the Discovery had been held 
in this secluded corner, and even to within a 
day or two the odds were against her ever 
being free to sail the seas again. The more 
we reflected upon our wonderful good luck, 
the more we realised how dependent we 
were at every turn on Nature's assistance. 
Gun-cotton, no doubt, helped materially ; 
but Nature was the potent factor. 

At Captain Scott's first lecture in the 
Royal Albert Hall, London, the picture 
thrown on the screen, of the three ships, 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

secured to each other in the winter harbour, 
created a thrilling acclamation, and our 
hearts thumped with pardonable pride, as 
we mentally lived over again those arduous 
and anxious days, spent in achieving this 
historic work. 

But we are still in the Antarctic, and 
many varied experiences must be passed 
before we are privileged to attend that 
memorable function at the Royal Albert 
Hall. As soon as the ships were fast to 
the solid ice of the winter harbour, the 
cheering was renewed. The Discovery men 
rushed down from the point, and much 
hand-shaking and many congratulations were 
exchanged. As the total muster of men 
from the ships numbered one hundred, the 
scene was most animated. A bumper 
gathering was held on the Discovery, which 
could hardly be otherwise than one of de- 
lightful camaraderie. 

A few heavy floes broke away from the 
harbour, but the Discovery was still encased 
in her solid bed. The fine weather only 
lasted for a few hours. A strong southerly 
.wind arose, and the Mornings levering out 

174 



THE 'MORNING' ADRIFT 

her ice anchor, was unfortunately driven 
out of the harbour. I was on watch, and, 
fearing that the ship would drift on to the 
shoal oif Hut Point, I immediately rang 
down for the engines. A great deal of puffing 
and snorting took place in the engine-room, 
and a corresponding hissing of steam ex- 
hausted through the steam-pipe, but with 
no practical result. As we were drifting 
dangerously close to the point, I rushed 
below, and anxiously sought the stoker- 
engineer in charge. As I slid down the 
little ladder, he cheerfully greeted me with, 
* It'll be all right in a few minutes, sir ; 
the fact is, she's a bit stubborn to-night ! ' 
Fortunately we scraped past the danger, and 
in the few minutes, which seemed like hours, 
the engines struggled out a few revolutions. 
The strong wind and drifting ice embarrassed 
the ship so much, that three hours passed 
before she was securely fast in the harbour 
again. 

Many hands from the three ships worked 
all day and through the night, sledging 
loads of ice, for thawing, and filling the 
Discovery's boilers. Others got the Discovery 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

ready for sea. Much had to be done, naturally, 
to a ship laid up for two years. One party 
dug a large hole some yards ahead of the 
Discovery's bow, in preparation for a blast. 
The ice, being ten feet thick, made this a 
difficult undertaking. 

During the afternoon, a heavy gust of 
wind blew the unfortunate Morning away 
again, and as the engines were still * stubborn,' 
she collided with the Terra Nova. The 
Terra Nova's bowsprit shot through our 
port main rigging, and the side of our bridge 
was smashed. It was exceedingly difficult 
to secure the ship firmly to the ice. The 
Terra Nova was in a better berth, and had 
a wire fast to the Discovery. We were very 
happy, though, in spite of these occasional 
troubles, and many visits were exchanged 
between the ships during the stay in Winter 
Harbour. 

Early next morning Captain Scott set 
off an alarming explosion of four charges 
of gun-cotton, simultaneously, in the hole 
ahead of the Discovery. The report was 
terrifying, and as the ships were so much 
shaken, fears were entertained for the Dis- 
176 



THE FINAL BLAST 

covery. As far as we could see, however, 
she appeared intact, and as the explosion 
caused a great rent in the solid bay ice, the 
result was satisfactory. 

The Discovery was now ready for sea. 
All gear, in the shape of sledges, stores from 
the hut, &c., was shipped ; sails were bent, 
and running rigging put in working order. 
The final blast was to be made in a hole 
in a tide-crack well on her port quarter. 
The charge was placed, and the circuit wire 
led to the battery on the stern of the ship. 
The large gangway was drawn on board, 
and the ship's company mustered on the 
after deck. 

Just before noon the charge was exploded 
by Captain Scott himself. The concussion 
was severe, and the ships were much shaken. 
In a few minutes, the Discovery^s stern, 
which had been weighed down by the solid 
ice surrounding the propeller, suddenly rose 
to even keel, and immediately afterwards 
the whole surface of the bay ice cracked 
— like streaks of forked lightning — in all 
directions. The solid, irregular-shaped floes 
then slowly drifted out of the harbour, and, 
177 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

thrilled with a supreme joy, we witnessed 
at last the release of the good ship Discovery 
from her icy prison. 

Freed from all ice, she slowly swung round 
with the wind to her anchors, and a stirring 
cheer rang out from her loyal consorts. 
Ensigns were dipped, and whistles hooted, 
and in our joyous abandon we knew that 
we looked upon a scene which would ever 
be memorable in the annals of the Antarctic. 

The bay was soon clear of ice, and the 
Terra Nova made fast alongside the Discovery , 
preparatory to coaling her. The Morning 
cruised off the harbour. Captain Scott 
signalled us to anchor near them, but the 
Morning's windlass was so old-fashioned, 
and took so long to heave up the anchors, 
that our captain thought it safer, in the 
event of a sudden blizzard, to remain under 
way. 

That evening the three captains were 
to dine together on the Discovery^ this being 
their first meeting on that ship. I took 
our captain over in a boat about 6 p.m. 
It was getting thick with falling snow, but 
the wind was light. We decided to steam 

178 



A STRUGGLE WITH A STORM 

up to the ice face, now to the southward of 
the winter harbour, and return for the captain 
at midnight. However, our anticipations did 
not come off. 

By lo P.M. it was very thick, and the 
wind moaned ominously in increasing heavy 
gusts. This wind, oddly enough, came from 
the westward, quite an unusual quarter, 
and forced the ship through the rotten slushy 
ice towards Cape Armitage — the southern 
point of the winter harbour. The ship rapidly 
gathered way, and no efforts on the part of 
the feeble little engine could pull her up. 

As we were now making directly for 
Cape Armitage, we set some sail, in the hope 
of weathering it to the northward, and 
getting away up the sound. The slushy ice, 
bearing on our side, upset this manoeuvre, 
and the only course open to us now was 
to take a risk, and run to the southward 
of the cape. It was very thick, with hard 
driving snow, but so closely did we round 
the cape, that its bold outline was seen 
hazily through the drift. Our main topsail 
was rent in several places, and was nearly 
blown out of its bolt-ropes. All canvas 

179 N2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

was taken in, and as bad luck would have 
it, the wind suddenly shifted south, and 
increased to a furious blizzard. 

We were in a very awkward predicament, 
as the cape was now immediately to leeward, 
or right astern. The engines had to be relied 
on solely. The boilers had given much 
trouble lately owing to defective tubes, and 
we hoped and prayed that they would hold 
out until the gale abated. The squalls were 
violent and shrieked in their fury, each one 
driving the ship astern, closer and ever closer 
to the rocky cape behind us. The gale 
raged all night, and at times the ship's stern 
almost touched the rocks. Ice broke away 
ahead all the while, which assisted to retard 
headway. 

Providentially, the gale abated as suddenly 
as it arose, and at 6 a.m. we rounded the 
cape, and steamed to the winter harbour. I 
then returned in the boat for our captain. 
The Discovery rode out the gale at anchor, but 
the Terra Nova, after carrying away several 
wires and bits of rail, cast off about lo p.m. 
and weathered the gale at the ice-face, a 
few miles away from us. 
1 80 



LEAVING WINTER HARBOUR 

The three-captain dinner-party was a 
failure. Much anxiety for our welfare was 
felt on the Discovery during the night, and 
our captain was greatly relieved when I 
reported that all was well, although we had 
spent a very trying night. 

Captain Scott then decided that the 
three ships should proceed to the glacier 
snout, ten miles north, to tranship the neces- 
sary coal and provisions. This, being more 
like a wharf, was better than lying at anchor 
or cruising about. Three nights of more 
or less continuous work and anxieties were 
beginning to tell on us, and we longed to 
get away from this stormy locality. The 
Discovery had to be coaled and provisioned, 
and the sooner this was done the better 
for all concerned. 

Soon after noon the Discovery hove up her 
anchors and got under way for the first 
time since her imprisonment. The weather 
appeared treacherous, and just at this time 
an ominous lull prevailed. 

We were lying a few miles away from 
Winter Harbour, but the Terra Nova was 
lost in the misty south ; indeed, she had not 
i8i 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

been seen since leaving the Discovery the 
night before. 

The Discovery had only just put her * nose ' 
out of the harbour when a sudden squall broke 
from the southward. The ship, being very- 
light, presented a high side to the wind, which, 
striking her broadside on, drove her bodily to 
leeward. Unfortunately she had not gathered 
enough headway to haul up to the windward, 
and was rapidly driven on to the shoal ground 
off Hut Point. We witnessed this calamity 
with dismay. She took the ground, heeled 
over alarmingly, and remained fast, whilst 
the merciless icy seas dashed over her. In 
a few minutes the dense drift blotted out 
the entire surroundings. We were naturally 
much concerned, and wondered if, after all 
our labours, it was the decree of Providence 
to hold the Discovery in the Antarctic for all 
time. 

But our helplessness to render assistance 
was the most galling feature. The blizzard 
increased to such a fury that the Morning 
was literally blown away across the sound, 
and, labouring heavily in a short breaking 
sea, she was frequently smothered in sheets 
182 



THE 'DISCOVERY' AGROUND 

of icy spray. We could do nothing for the 
Discovery^ and the storm was so violent that 
we soon realised that the utmost skill was 
required for the safety of our own vessel. We 
hoped that the ^erra Nova would, somehow, 
find out the Discovery"* s misfortune, and, at any 
rate, stand by her in case of a disaster. How- 
ever, as she was not in the vicinity at the time, 
it was improbable that she could do this. 

It was incredible to think that neither re- 
lief ship could be of avail in this predicament. 
The affair was a nightmare to us. No one, 
sitting in the comfort of an armchair before a 
cheerful fire at home, reading about — as we 
feared — the loss of the Discovery^ would have 
any sympathy with the crews of the relief 
ships for not going to the aid of the stranded 
vessel. We should probably have been 
branded with neglect or incompetency. But 
an Antarctic storm must be experienced to 
realise how utterly impossible it was to do 
this, especially in ships of limited power. 

The blizzard raged fiercely all night. Eyes 
were bloodshot and sore, and faces smarted 
with the stinging spray and cutting icy 
particles that drove before^the wind. Under 

183 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

such circumstances sleep came but fitfully, 
and we wondered how much longer we could 
stand this severe strain. 

By midnight the ice-hummocked fore-shore 
on the western side of the sound was sighted, 
and the ship was immediately put about. 
We had only a vague idea where we were, but 
it was certain that we were well to the north 
end of the sound. 

The peculiarity of Antarctic weather is 
the suddenness of its changes. Early the 
next morning the wind abated rapidly, the 
drift ceased, and the overhanging pall of a 
few hours before vanished. We were abreast 
of Beaufort Island, and had consequently 
been blown about forty miles away. We 
steered in the direction of the glacier snout 
on the eastern shore. Some hours passed 
before the familiar landmarks were distin- 
guished, and it was late in the afternoon when 
we sighted, to our intense relief and joy, six 
masts together at the glacier. We cheered with 
delight, knowing now that, whatever may have 
happened during the past awful night, the two 
ships were safe. 

It is strange how quickly anxieties and 
184 



SNATCHED FROM DESTRUCTION 

hardships are turned aside. We were weary, 
and possibly haggard, but we were nevertheless 
perfectly happy. The weather was improving, 
and were not the two ships only a few miles 
distant, apparently all right ? 

In the evening we arrived at the glacier, 
and according to custom now, we cheered the 
ships vigorously. The Terra Nova was along- 
side the Discovery discharging coal and stores. 
The scene on the ships was very animated, and 
every available man was busily employed, in- 
cluding the scientists. The learned and re- 
spected bacteriologist and the biologist, attired 
in the most mundane rig-out, with sou'westers 
on, were seriously dragging bags of coal along 
the deck, and filling the bunkers. We soon 
joined in the common toil. 

We then learned of the Discovery^ s mishap. 
She bumped heavily on the shoal for several 
hours, and broke away part of her keel. At 
one time, after every endeavour to get her off 
the rocks had proved unavailing, it was con- 
sidered a hopeless case, and her gallant but 
distressed crew awaited her destruction. 
Owing to some remarkable change in tide or 
current, the stern swung into deeper water. 

185 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

The engines were soon away again, and by 
rolling the ship continuously, she gradually 
gathered sternway, and came off the danger- 
ous shoal. She passed the rest of the night in 
the howling gale at the ice face. With the 
clearing weather next morning the Terra Nova 
was sighted close by, and they proceeded in 
company to the glacier. 

By midnight all available coal and stores 
were transhipped from the Terra Nova, and 
the Discovery then hauled alongside the 
Morning. We had only a small amount of 
coal in our bunkers, but as the Discovery 
had less, and needed as much as possible 
to enable her to carry out her cruising pro- 
gramme before finally returning to New 
Zealand, we gave her really more than we could 
spare. The coal was worked out as expedi- 
tiously as our tired limbs would permit. 

This was now the fifth arduous night 
in succession, and the strain was telling. 
Evans, the doctor, and I worked at the 
coal whips, hauling up the bags by hand. 
We competed with three seamen, in spells 
of half an hour. In spite of our exhausted 
condition, we worked cheerily, and held the 
i86 



' FOLLOW ME ' 

record by pulling up eighty-seven bags in 
one half-hour spell, to the men's eighty-five. 

At 6 A.M. the work was finished, and the 
Discovery shifted along the glacier for watering. 
Thoroughly played out, we then enjoyed a 
much-needed rest, and slept for six grateful 
hours on end. We could well have slumbered 
longer, but another gale set in. A short 
nasty sea made, causing the ship to bump 
heavily against the glacier. As the rudder 
and propeller were receiving dangerous jars 
against the projecting ice spurs, all hands 
were called, and after an unavoidably risky 
manoeuvre, we backed away from the glacier. 
The Terra Nova hauled off earlier, but the 
Discovery was still ' watering.' 

At last, at 5 p.m., all work was concluded, 
and the Discovery cast off from the glacier. 
With an escort on each side, she got under 
way, and hoisted the signal : ' Follow me.' 
With squared yards and bellying sails, the 
ships ran bravely before the gale to the 
north ; and with memories of joys, hard- 
ships, and anxieties, we repeatedly looked 
back, fascinated, at the receding landmarks, 
now viewed, for all we knew, for the last time. 

187 



CHAPTER XV 

A beautiful Antarctic scene — Ships in company — 
Impressive coast-line — Morning parts company — 
Terra Nova escorts Discovery — Boisterous Southern 
Ocean — Engines break down — ^An anxious month — 
Reverses making Auckland Island — ^Arrival Port 
Ross — A peaceful contrast — Discovery and Terra 
Nova at rendezvous — ^Pleasant days — Ballasting ship 
— News of outer world— Departure from Auckland 
Island — ^A fine slant — Return of National Antarctic 
Expedition. 

The gale gradually decreased as the ships 
sped north. By midnight McMurdo Sound 
was left behind, and all drift had disappeared. 
The night was beautiful. As one walked 
aft on the little poop-deck the wonderful 
scene to the southward was magnificent, 
striking enough indeed to throw an artist 
into an ecstasy. 

To the left towered Mount Erebus, whose 
icy slopes were alternated in dazzling sun- 
touched ridges and shadows of the deepest 
purple. The ice-capped Beaufort Island lay 
i88 



A BEAUTIFUL ANTARCTIC SCENE 

at the foot of the mountain. To the right 
ranged the lofty pink-tinted peaks of the 
western mountains along the mainland, inter- 
veined by massive glaciers. The mountains 
gradually deepened in shade as they appeared 
in succession to the south, and in the miraged 
distance the further peaks stood out boldly 
against the fiery glare of the dipping sun. 
The southern horizon was ablaze, in shafts 
of gold and crimson, which tinted the face 
of the innumerable icy slopes. In picturesque 
contrast were the dark shades of purple 
and grey on their northern sides. The 
occasional bergs and drift ice floated list- 
lessly, and stood out strikingly in the indigo- 
coloured sea. 

But it is presumption to attempt to pen- 
picture this last impression of McMurdo 
Sound, for it was indescribably beautiful. 
However, my feeble effort may tend to show 
that, although we had suffered many hard- 
ships and anxieties during the last week, the 
fascination of the place still remained, and, 
with a feeling akin to sadness, I reluctantly 
turned my head away from its awful 
charm. 

189 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

The three ships in company steered to 
the north along the western shore, which 
comprises a continuous chain of ranges, very 
similar to the mountains of McMurdo Sound. 
Some of the glaciers were striking and 
extended well out to sea. One in particular 
jutted out for several miles and could well 
be termed a barrier. The ships had to 
steer to the eastward for some distance to 
round its tabular-shaped extremity. 

Still carrying the southerly wind. Mount 
Melbourne was passed the following night. 
The seaward side of this wonderfully sym- 
metrical cone terminates in Cape Washington, 
the southern point of Wood Bay. 

The Discovery required as escort along 
the coast either one of the two vessels. We 
should have appreciated cruising with her 
very much, but it was quite evident that 
with our weak-powered engines we should 
only have delayed her in her work. As she 
was going into Wood Bay to complete her 
magnetic work, and the favourable breeze 
still held, our captain signalled for per- 
mission to proceed to the prearranged 
rendezvous — Port Ross, Auckland Islands. 
190 



PARTING COMPANY 

The satisfactory reply soon came, viz. : 
* Proceed on your voyage.' 

We parted company, therefore, off Wood 
Bay, and the Terra Nova was retained as 
escort. Yards were squared and, standing 
to the north-east, the Morning bowled merrily 
on her way. 

It soon set in gloomy, with frequent mists 
of driving snow, and a very keen watch was 
necessary to avoid the dangerous stray bergs. 
In five days' time no more ice was seen, and 
we became deep-sea sailors again. The days 
shortened rapidly, and, after the strain of two 
months' incessant daylight and trying glare, 
night proper was thoroughly appreciated, and 
the first stars seen were welcomed with a cheer. 

The Southern Ocean was particularly 
boisterous during the northward voyage. 
Rarely is fine weather experienced there, but 
the month of March is perhaps the stormiest. 
However, I think that our experience of 
continuous gales from north-west and west 
for a period of twenty-four days on end, 
without cessation, just about constitutes a 
record. It was extremely tantalising, and 
as the Auckland Islands lay to the north- 
191 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

west, or to windward, great patience and 
dogged determination had to be exercised. 
It was a trying time for all. The engines 
would have assisted materially in keeping 
the ship from making excessive leeway, but 
they had unfortunately given out, and were 
under repair for some weeks. 

But perhaps the most disturbing feature 
was the lightness of the vessel. There was 
practically no coal in the ship, stores were 
diminished, and the only actual weight was 
the engine. Hitherto the ship had been 
well ballasted, but we could not afford to 
take any liberties now. The seas were 
mountainous, and the ship lurched danger- 
ously. How we longed for a fine day with 
a smooth sea ! It never came, so we had 
to make the best of a rough-and-tumble 
existence. It was a hard month, and it 
told on us. For the average person it would 
be impossible to imagine the discomforts 
attached to such conditions in a little tub 
of a vessel of 290 tons. We were cooped 
up the whole time. Exercise came only 
by the frequent trips aloft to furl or loose 
sail, for the decks were but a dreary con- 
192 



BAFFLED OFF THE AUCKLANDS 

tinuation of the turbulent ocean. During 
one heavy gale another boat was washed 
away and the bridge damaged. 

When we did eventually get within sight- 
ing distance of the island it set in thick, 
and a strong gale blew us away before it 
cleared. The day afterwards we beat back 
again, and during a temporary clear in the 
evening a light was seen for a few minutes. 
This we surmised to be from the Discovery 
or Terra Nova. 

On the following morning the gale abated, 
and blue sky greeted us for the first time. 
The engines were now sufficiently repaired 
to enable us to proceed slowly. All sails 
were clewed up, and we steamed at the 
depressing rate of one knot towards the 
supposed direction of Auckland Island. 

The land was at last sighted, but we 
were too late to make the harbour before 
nightfall. Arriving off the entrance of Port 
Ross at 8 P.M., we dodged about a few miles 
off the shore, intending to enter at daylight. 
To our intense disappointment the breeze 
freshened during the night, and blew us 
so far away again that at daylight no land 
193 o 



• THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' 

was to be seen. This reverse was an exas- 
perating addition to our many misfortunes* 
However, a last supreme effort was made. 
In desperation, the chief engineer risked 
a few more revolutions out of his delicate 
charge, and the baffled, weather-beaten 
Morning now struggled bravely at two knots. 
By great good luck there was a ' set ' in to 
the shore, and the wind and sea decreasing 
as the land was approached, we reached the 
entrance that afternoon. This was Sunday, 
March 20. McMurdo Sound had been left 
behind on February 20 — truly a weary month 
of wretched discomfort, anxiety and hard- 
ship. 

Oh, the joy of it, as the little ship steamed 
between Enderby and Ewing Islands, and 
into this haven of rest, happily named Sarah's 
Bosom ! As soon as we rounded into the 
harbour the masts of a vessel were seen over 
a point in the upper reach, so we anchored 
in Erebus Cove, about five miles from the 
entrance. 

The sudden contrast between the present 
peace and the stormy stress of the past 
months was great. Here at last the ship lay 
194 



REUNION 

quietly. The placid water sparkled in the 
sunlight, and the dense luxuriant vegetation, 
growing to the very water's edge, continued 
in reflection in imaginary depths. The land- 
locked harbour, dotted with thickly wooded 
islets, assumed more the appearance of a 
beautiful lake. But it was the greenery that 
was so particularly pleasing. After the strain 
of the eternal Antarctic glare, our eyes simply 
feasted on this, and the peaceful environment 
amply compensated for our recent discomforts. 

A boat was soon lowered, and a party 
pulled round to the inner harbour. The Terra 
Nova was anchored there indeed, and further 
in — happy day ! — was the Discovery also. 
So here we all were once again, in joyous 
company. 

The Terra Nova and Discovery parted in a 
blizzard soon after we left them, yet, in spite 
of the separation, the three ships arrived at 
the rendezvous within a few days of each other. 

Evans and I landed on Pig Point close by 
and took a series of observations to verify 
our chronometer rates. We then visited the 
provision depot for the shipwrecked at Erebus 
Cove. There are many similar depots main- 
195 02 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

tained by the New Zealand Government at 
the outlying dangerous islands round New 
Zealand. The hut is small, but a haven indeed 
for castaways. In one part are stores and 
clothing and a fireplace ; in another some 
rude bunks. On the walls are cut the names 
of many men who have been cast away there, 
and there are several memorials to crews who 
have lost their lives, either from drowning or 
starvation. Near the hut there is a peaceful 
little cemetery, where rough wooden crosses 
have been placed over the graves. Several 
are marked * Unknown,' one being an infant 
aged five months. It is a sad spot. Before 
leaving the island we added some stores and 
tobacco to the stock in the hut. 

A party from the Discovery visited us, and 
we had an interesting evening relating our 
recent trying experiences. The three ships 
had had a bafiling time with the elements, 
but it was evident that the Morning had fared 
the worst. 

Next evening the Morning officers dined 

on the Discovery. A fair wind enabled us to 

sail over. The ward-room was artistically 

decorated with huge tree ferns and the table 

196 



BALLASTING 

tastefully arranged. To give a little tone, 
the menu was typed in French. It was the 
happiest dinner party imaginable, but the 
return 'home' against a strong head wind 
rather took away from the enjoyment. In 
the intense darkness we pulled mechanically 
for nearly two hours. 

Owing to our vessel's unballasted condition, 
we took in ninety tons of large round stones, 
with which the foreshore was strewn. This 
occupied some days in the boats. We usually 
started at 6 a.m., and the first boat to go in 
generally disturbed a stray sea-lion or two. 
They barked viciously at our intrusion, and, 
in apparent disgust, waddled away into the 
dense scrub. 

The New Zealand Government steamer 
Hinemoa visited Port Ross during our stay, 
and we learned the news of the outer world. 
We heard then of the Russo-Japanese war. 
The newspapers were particularly acceptable 
and eagerly perused. 

' To commemorate the anniversary of our 

arrival at Lyttelton from the Antarctic, viz. 

March 25, 1903, we had an original dinner of 

the products of the island. These comprised 

197 -h 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

mussels, fricasseed cormorant, sea-lion steak, 
and mutton-bird. Fresh water there was, too, 
from the clear springs of the place, but a little 
champagne was also introduced to make the 
event official. 

A day or two before we left Evans and I 
spent an afternoon ashore washing clothes in 
the clear fresh stream running into Erebus 
Cove. Washing clothes had become an accus- 
tomed necessity, but we had never enjoyed 
such an unlimited supply of water. We sat on 
logs thrown across the creek, dangling our sea- 
booted legs in the stream, and with pipes 
alight, we started off merrily. But how akin 
is pleasure to pain! In a few minutes we 
were severely attacked by the most persistent 
sandflies, and faces, necks, and bared arms 
suffered unmercifully. As we could not pos- 
sibly refrain from rubbing the smarting stings, 
our faces, indeed our very heads, were soon 
smothered in soapsuds, which produced a 
ridiculous effect. We braved out the attack, 
but did not forget that afternoon in a 
hurry. 

Early on the afternoon of Tuesday, 
March 29, the ships steamed out of Port Ross. 
198 



RETURN TO LYTTELTON 

A fine strong S.W. wind blew, and, with all 
sail set, we bowled along at eight to nine knots 
towards New Zealand, keeping within a few 
miles of one another. 

Stewart Island was sighted on the follow- 
ing forenoon, and at midnight the lights of 
Dunedin could be seen. The wind decreased 
gradually, and the weather remained very 
fine. It was calm next night as we drew up 
to Banks Peninsula, and the little ships stood 
out darkly on the silvery moonlit sea. 

At the first streak of a beautiful dawn 
— April I, 1904 — the ships arrived off the 
entrance to Lyttelton Harbour. As the pilot 
tug steamed towards the little fleet ringing 
cheers rent the still morning air. We passed 
through the Heads in file, Terra Nova, Dis- 
covery, Morning, and slowly steamed up the 
harbour. It was Good Friday, and the news 
travelled quickly. 

Before the ships were half-way in innumer- 
able craft of every description were cruising 
round us in figure-of-eight manoeuvres. Flags 
were flying, whistles tooted, and cheer upon 
cheer rang out from those who had risen so 
early to welcome us home. 
199 



. THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

Lyttelton was gay with excitement. Flags 
flew from public buildings, from private 
houses, and from every ship in the port. The 
tug, which had quickly returned from the 
Heads, now approached, crowded with our 
good and loyal friends. Evans excitedly 
pointed out my fiancee, and I his. A band 
played ' Home, Sweet Home.' Oh ! it was a 
thrilling time. 

As the ships drew up to their respective 
berths a continuous cheering broke from the 
packed hundreds on the wharves, handker- 
chiefs fluttered distractingly, shrilly blew the 
whistles, and loudly boomed the guns. 

A triumphant entry indeed, and a glori- 
ous reception. Thus the National Antarctic 
Expedition had returned. 



200 



CHAPTER XVI 

A great welcome — Evans's wedding — Departure for 
England — Around Cape Horn — The Falkland 
Islands — Last run of voyage — Depressing head 
winds — Change off Cape Finisterre — Running 
before a gale — ^The dear Homeland — Morning, 
steamer or sailer ? — Plymouth Sound — ^The end 
of the cruise. 

If it were not for contrast life would be ex- 
ceedingly dull, and in our adventurous expe- 
dition we certainly experienced its extremes. 
The hospitable welcome and generous enter- 
tainment extended to us from all quarters 
formed indeed a delightful change from the 
wretched discomfort and anxieties of the past 
months. Enough cannot be said of the great 
kindness shown to every one of us by the good 
people of New Zealand. 

By way of compensation for our recent 
trials, the captain granted the entire crew one 
week's leave. This thoughtfulness was much 
appreciated and strengthened the loyalty of 

201 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' 

our hard-working men. The ship was there- 
fore * closed ' and handed over to a ship-keeper. 

A week or two after our return a social 
event took place of particular interest to the 
Expedition and its numerous friends, namely, 
the marriage of Evans to Miss Hilda Russell. 
It was a very happy occasion, and, naturally, 
I was my old chum's best man. 

The little church was prettily decorated, 
and the Morning sailors were in attendance 
as a sort of guard of honour. Cap ribbons 
marked Discovery, Morning, and Terra Nova 
streamed from the bride's and bridesmaids' 
bouquets. The bridegroom and groomsmen 
wore uniform. A large number of guests 
attended the reception afterwards, and con- 
gratulated the happy pair. 

As usual at such functions, there were 
several amusing incidents. There is a custom 
at naval weddings for the bride to make the 
first cut in the cake with her husband's 
sword. This rite was duly performed, but, by 
an oversight, the blade was still coated with 
vaseline. The Morning sailors were each 
given a glass of champagne to drink the health 
of the bride's father. The bosun made a 
202 



LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 

characteristic speech, and down went the 
wine. One man, nudging his neighbour, 
said, — * By gum, Jim, but that's ruddy fine 
ginger ale ! ' 

But how transitory is life. On the ninth 
anniversary of their marriage my dear chum's 
wife was taken from him after a brief ill- 
ness. This great sorrow befell him, sadly 
enough, just as he had attained distinction 
and honour at the conclusion of Captain 
Scott's last fatal expedition. 

After the necessary docking and over- 
hauling, the ships left New Zealand early 
in June for England. For many this was 
a final parting from numerous good and 
kind friends. It was a sad wrench. We 
sailed away across the Southern Ocean, 
and, despite the winter season, experienced 
favourable breezes and moderately fine 
weather. Towards the end of July the 
dreaded Cape Horn was rounded on a 
peaceful starlit night, and in a day or 
two we put in to Port Stanley, Falk- 
land Islands, for coal. The Discovery was 
just leaving when the Morning arrived. 
The ships had parted company the day 
203 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' 

after leaving New Zealand, and it was a 
coincidence that they should again meet at 
the Falkland Islands. 

I do not know what this part of the 
British Empire is like in the summer, but 
in winter it is a dreary spot. The township 
was under snow, and the frequency and 
violence of the gales were depressing. Owing 
to repeated bad weather, we could only 
lie alongside the coal hulk on two occasions 
in the week we were there. Ninety tons 
were taken in, and repairs effected to the 
almost worn-out boilers. The inhabitants 
of this desolate little colony showed us 
some hospitality in the shape of occasional 
modest entertainments. 

However, we were glad to heave up the 
anchor and enter on the last run of our 
voyage. A fine ' slant ' enabled us to reach 
the equator in a few weeks' time. The 
engines were only used occasionally, but, 
much as we nursed them, they unfortunately 
broke down again when most needed to 
push against the north-east trade winds. 
The ' trades ' blew well from the north at 
this season, andjwe experienced them from 
204 



WEARY WINDS AND A PROPHECY 

the equator until well north of the Azores. 
This meant incessant tacking, and the ship 
beat so poorly to windward that we thought 
we should never reach England. We were 
naturally very keen to get along quickly at 
this time, and this reverse was tantalising. 
The weather soon became the chief topic of 
conversation, and each day caused our esti- 
mated arrival date at Plymouth to be put 
ahead further and ever further with dis- 
appointing consistency. 

Meteorology was discussed at each meal, 
and many futile weather forecasts were made. 
The bosun's suggestion one afternoon, al- 
though it likewise did not come off, displayed, 
at any rate, an original terseness. The 
sky was cloudless and the sun just setting. 
He was keeping part of the chief officer's 
watch. The captain, passing along the poop on 
his way to dinner, asked him his opinion of the 
weather. Smugly and deferentially came the 
reply : ' Well, you know the old saying, sir — 

When the sun sets as clear as a bell 
Easterly wind as sure as ! 

Well, you know what I mean, sir.' 

But he was no prophet either. The 
205 



. THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

northerly wind still held persistently. Four 
months had elapsed since we left Lyttel- 
ton, and the voyage was becoming monoton- 
ous. All blacking down, painting, and the 
numerous homeward-bound titivations were 
finished, and the Morning's smart appearance 
threatened to wear off if the journey were much 
more protracted. But a north wind cannot 
last for ever. About the middle of October, 
when abreast of Cape Finisterre, a south- 
west breeze was gladly welcomed. Yards 
were at last squared in off the backstays, 
and as the wind freshened so we gathered 
way. It set in thick with driving rain 
squalls, but we bowled along in fine style, 
keeping a vigilant look-out in doubled watches. 
The wind held steadily in direction, and 
gradually increased to a hard gale. The 
little ship heeled to the strain. After the 
recent baffling winds we were keen to take 
every advantage of the following gale. As 
the result of the good progress made, the 
ship was in the mouth of the English Channel 
on the evening of the third day. Soon after 
midnight the wind suddenly shifted in a 
heavy squall to north-west, the misty rain 
206 



UNDER STEAM OR SAIL ? 

ceased, and in the crisp, clear, starlit 
night, the Scilly light was sighted to the 
northward. Evans sent below for me, and 
we gazed with joy at this first glimpse of the 
dear Homeland after an absence of two and 
a quarter years. 

An odd thing happened that night. After 
much worry and toil, our skilful engineer 
had patched up the shaky old engine. This 
was started, amid cheers, for the final flutter 
down * the straight,' and, accelerated by the 
full spread of canvas in the strong breeze, the 
ship was going her utmost speed. Being in 
the track of shipping, a masthead light was 
placed in addition to the side-lights to indicate 
that we were a steam vessel. The ship drove 
so fast before the breeze, however, that 
the propeller could only be sportingly termed 
as an ' also ran.' It performed many more 
revolutions than the feeble engine could 
possibly make unaided, and it seemed that 
the way of the ship was turning the engine, 
and not the engine causing the way ! Perhaps 
an occult method of ship's propulsion may 
evolve from this observation at some future 
date. But this is beside the incident. 

207 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

A steamer bore down on us, and, according 
to the Rule of the Road, it was our duty 
to keep out of the way. Seeing that to 
do this effectively we should be ' caught by 
the lee,' the line of least resistance was 
adopted, viz. the masthead light was doused, 
and the ship proceeded as a sailing-vessel ! 
The Board of Trade might not appreciate 
this, but in the circumstances it was the 
safest plan for all concerned. 

Next day we signalled our number on 
passing the Lizard Lighthouse, and, the 
sea becoming smoother, we sailed peacefully 
over the last few miles along the beautiful 
shores of Cornwall. A cruiser homeward 
bound from China, flying the pay-off pennant, 
steamed closely past us, and her blue-jackets 
manned the rigging and gave us three rousing 
cheers. 

Late in the afternoon we steamed into 
Plymouth Sound. Two men-of-war cheered 
us vigorously as we entered, and their bands 
played inspiriting airs. 

As night closed in the anchor was dropped, 
and signalised at last the termination of 
the Mornings adventurous cruise. England 
208 



HOME 

and home ! Our mission was over. The 
end seemed to come with a strange suddenness. 
As one leaned over the little ship's rail in 
the peaceful night and gazed at the glare of 
the lighted town, with the dancing reflection 
of innumerable lights in the darkening water, 
feelings of joy and sorrow were intermingled. 
There was a feeling of pride, too, in the 
reflection that we had done our best in the 
Expedition's cause and, despite discomforts 
and reverses, had done our duty in the 
arduous undertaking. The prospects of being 
once more with our dear ones, and to be 
able so soon to gather round the homely 
fireside and relate our thrilling story, was a 
joyous thought. But sad was the anticipation 
of the breaking up of our staunch little com- 
pany, who for over two years had lived and 
toiled so cheerfully together. A bond of 
affection had been established, and, although 
we must now disperse and go on our respective 
ways, there was some consolation in knowing 
that the memory of our happy comradeship 
could never be erased. 



209 



CHAPTER XVII 

Morning laid up at Devonport — Our diminutive floating 
home — ^Dividing the ' spoils ' — Crew paid off — 
Sailors' affection for their ship — ^The last of the Morn- 
ing — ^Homeward-bound crew — Our unconscious 
humorist — ^The Great City — ^Home, sweet home. 

On the following day, the Morning was the 
centre of much interest. Visits were paid 
by the Admiral commanding the district, 
and by numerous naval officers and civilians. 
We learned that the Discovery and Terra 
Nova had arrived some time before, and 
had been paid off at Sheerness. The Admiral 
therefore issued instructions for the Morning 
to follow suit. Owing to the wretched state 
of our engines and boilers, the captain pointed 
out that this would be a difficult undertaking. 
' But,' remarked the Admiral, ' you have your 
sails.' The captain explained that there 
were degrees of sailing vessels, and as the 
Morning sailed so much more sideways 

2IO 



UNFIT FOR THE CHANNEL 

than ahead, he did not consider it prudent 
to attempt the passage under sail alone. 
Sailing in the open ocean was one thing, but 
in the narrow and crowded waters of the 
English Channel it was quite another matter, 
and the risk involved was too great. A hint 
thrown out for a cruiser to tow the Morning 
round was not taken up. 

A party of engineers and artificers invaded 
the little ship next day, and after a thorough 
examination below, they were satisfied that 
our chief engineer's report was only too 
true. The boilers and engines were too 
far gone to justify incurring the expense 
of repairs. We were therefore towed over 
to Devonport to await instructions from the 
Admiralty, and moored amongst a formid- 
able fleet of battleships and cruisers. 
Admittedly, the Morning was a small vessel, 
but the contrast with the great ships sur- 
rounding her was so striking that it was 
hard to realise that we had actually existed 
for over two years in such a diminutive- 
looking craft. 

Evans was the happiest man in our 
company. His wife had arrived in England 

211 *• 2 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

some weeks before, and was in Plymouth 
to greet him. It was a strange coincidence 
that the house they stayed at on the Terrace 
overlooking the Hoe was the one I lived 
in when I was eight years old. 

The week we remained by the ship en- 
abled us to bring all records and back work 
up to date. The ' spoils,' in the shape of 
cutlery, silver, books, &c., were gradually 
divided amongst the captain and officers, 
and the piano was unanimously voted to 
me. I sent it home in three parts, and re- 
built it later on. Although it was practically 
a wreck, I was proud to own an instrument 
that was associated with so many happy 
recollections; and certainly its history made 
of itself an interesting story. 

At length word came from the Admiralty 
that the Morning was to be sold to a Dundee 
whaling firm. Two members of the Ant- 
arctic Committee from the Admiralty arrived 
at Plymouth, and, after paying off the crew, 
they took her over. That afternoon saw 
a busy and chaotic scene throughout the 
ship. We were packing up. It was a be- 
wildering experience, and no one seemed 

212 



THE LAST OF THE ' MORNING ' 

to have enough bags and trunks to accommo- 
date his personal belongings. The situation 
was much relieved, however, by the numerous 
bluejackets engaged discharging stores, &c., 
coming in for a generous supply of cast-off 
garments. Just before dusk, a dockyard 
tender came alongside, and was soon filled 
with a mountainous heap of luggage. We then 
looked round our little floating home for the 
last time. It was hard to tear oneself away ! 
The entire crew embarked on the tender, 
and as she bore us away, we turned and gave 
three farewell cheers for the deserted vessel. 

It was one of those sad occasions when 
that unaccountable lump would persistently 
stick in one's throat. We tried to be cheery, 
and even masked our feelings with indifference, 
but at heart we were very sad. The ship 
had been a home of innumerable happy 
memories and associations. She had served 
us faithfully, and had become endeared 
to us. What recollections crowded them- 
selves into our minds as we looked back 
at the receding picture ! The sun had set, 
and the grey October gloom was settling 
down fast. Overshadowed by the grim bulk 
213 



THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' 

of Britain's pride, the brave little ship, 
with masts outstanding against the western 
sky, became fainter and ever fainter, until 
the enfolding night completely blotted her 
out from our lingering gaze. That was the 
last of the Morning, and we never saw her 
again. A few years afterwards she was 
lost in the Arctic, and her adventurous 
career was ended. 

On the following morning there was an 
animated scene at the railway station, and, as 
the express steamed out for London, ringing 
cheers rang out from the homeward-bound 
crew. England, Morrison, and I remained 
two days longer to explain and hand over 
various documents and accounts. 

This being satisfactorily concluded, we 
booked passage per express to London. Eng- 
land had so much gear to collect and pack 
that he did not think he could be ready to 
accompany us. The litter of articles in his 
room at the hotel certainly indicated this. 
Reluctantly we left him, surrounded by his 
innumerable belongings, to follow on, perhaps 
next day. 

Morrison and I were seated in our ' smoker,' 
214 



A DESPERATE RUSH 

and just as the starting whistle was about to 
blow, we were conscious of some commotion , 
on the station platform. Out of curiosity we 
looked out of the carriage windows and were 
exceedingly astonished to see England with 
three porters wildly heaving boxes and bags 
into the luggage van. The train started, and, 
with a sprint equal to any professional hun- 
dred yards' pace, he hurled himself breathless 
into our carriage, weighed down and almost 
overpowered by a medley of bursting bags, 
skis, ski-stick, a penguin skin or two, and a 
rifle. Under his arm he gripped a home-made 
cabinet box in which his valuables were kept, 
and a cumbersome brass clock was suspended 
by a lanyard from his wrist. Altogether the 
effect produced was excruciatingly funny, and 
it took him nearly all the way to London to 
recover from his desperate rush. 

Night had fallen when we reached the 
great city. It was fascinating driving through 
the brilliantly lighted, bustling thoroughfares 
once again. After our two years' absence, a 
period so crammed with unique experiences, 
the impression it made was not unlike the 
awakening from a wonderful dream. 
215 



. THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING » 

At the station we parted. Morrison set 
off for Glasgow, England for Sheffield, and 
I for Blackheath. The captain was at Hull, 
the doctor at Edinburgh, and Evans and his 
wife in London. The temporary separation 
could hardly have been more complete. 

It is unnecessary to attempt to draw a 
picture of the sweetness of home after our 
wanderings. A veil may, therefore, be drawn 
over a family party grouped round a cheerful 
fire, happily listening, far into the October 
night, to the story of the Morning's voyages 
as related in the foregoing pages. 



2|6 



CHAPTER XVIII 

Expedition functions — Captain Scott's lecture at Royal 
Albert Hall — Graceful tribute to Captain Colbeck 
— Reception of Morning's crew at Hull — Royal 
Corinthian Yacht Club's dinner — Captain Colbeck's 
wedding — The sad farewell. 

Interesting and enjoyable functions in 
connection with the Expedition were held 
during November and December. The officers 
from the three ships took up temporary- 
quarters in London, and this resulted in many 
happy reunions. 

Owing to the Morning^ s protracted voyage 
home, the authorities thoughtfully delayed 
the social proceedings until her officers could 
participate in them also. 

Our first memorable meeting was the 
welcome-home dinner given by the Royal 
Geographical and Royal Societies at the South 
Kensington Hotel. There were numbers of 
eminent scientists present, and members of 

217 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

the Geographical Societies from many parts 
of the Continent. Sir Clements Markham 
took the chair, and paid a glowing tribute to 
Captain Scott on the success of the Expedition. 
A feature of the meal was the last dish on the 
menu. This was a wonderfully devised fac- 
simile of the Discovery made of ice-cream. 
It was carried round on a large tray by two 
waiters, and as the ship was gradually cut 
away, the masts tottered and fell among the 
wrecked remains. 

Following the dinner was Captain Scott's 
maiden lecture at the Royal Albert Hall. The 
huge building was packed with a brilliant 
audience, and Captain Scott received a great 
ovation. A screen was hung across the huge 
organ at the back of the lecturer, on which the 
beautiful pictures were thrown from a lantern in 
the gallery opposite. For one not used to this 
sort of thing it was a trying ordeal, and Captain 
Scott was at first a little nervous. However, 
he soon warmed to the subject, and gave a 
splendid account of the three years' doings 
of the National Antarctic Expedition. By 
means of an electric button he communicated 
with the lantern operator when to change the 
218 



A LECTURING MISHAP 

slides. At one part of the lecture he became 
enthusiastic on a description of penguins, and 
signalled for a penguin picture. Through 
some mistake, this did not appear, and as he 
proceeded — ' Here you will notice these quaint 
birds in the act of — ' He turned to the 
screen and was surprised to see a party of men 
harnessed to sledges. The audience laughed 
good-humouredly, but poor Captain Scott 
became very worried. To try and counteract 
the mistake, he immediately started to describe 
sledging work, but the operator, seeing his 
error, unfortunately switched on a group of 
penguins. Renewed applause. Captain Scott 
turned round to us, despair in his face, and 
remarked : ' The whole show is being messed 
up ! ' We cheerfully encouraged him, and 
assured him that he was doing excellently. 
He soon got over his embarrassment, and, for- 
tunately, no more slips occurred. It was a 
great night for him, and he received not only 
the honour of obtaining the Royal Geographi- 
cal Society's Gold Medal, but the Philadelphia 
Royal Geographical Society's Gold Medal was 
also presented to him by the American 
Ambassador. 

219 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

A feature of particular delight to us was 
the presentation by Sir Clements Markham 
of a silver loving-cup to Captain Colbeck. It 
represented a globe on which were engraved 
the tracks of the Morning's voyages, the whole 
being supported by three inverted seals. It 
was a very graceful tribute to the relief ship's 
assistance in the enterprise. 

As our commander and nearly all of the 
Mornings crew hailed from Yorkshire, the 
citizens of Hull arranged a reception in 
our honour at the Town Hall. The building 
was well filled, and many complimentary 
speeches were made. In the evening a dinner 
was given to the crew at the Sailors' Home, 
followed by a dance. The sailors had invited 
many of their friends, and these included 
several fishermen's wives. But a gloom hung 
over the gaiety. The day before, the Dogger 
Bank outrage had occurred, and I remember 
how concerned those poor anxious women 
were for their husbands' safety. 

Perhaps the happiest function we attended 
was the annual dinner of the Royal Corinthian 
Yacht Club. This took place early in 
December at the Hotel Cecil. The Morning 

220 



THE ROYAL CORINTHIAN 

was borne on the books of this club as a yacht, 
and similarly, the Discovery belonged nomi- 
nally to the Royal Harwich Yacht Club. It 
was therefore appropriate that, at the annual 
dinner, the officers of the club's unique yacht 
should be included. 

It was a magnificent banquet, with an 
attendance of possibly two hundred men. 
Prominent members of the Club were told off 
to look after us, and there was no hitch in this 
direction. We could not have been more 
hospitably treated. 

The principal toast of the evening, after 
' The King,' was ' The Captain and Officers 
of the Morning.'* This was received with 
tremendous applause. The Commodore, in 
the chair, proposed the toast in the most 
complimentary and flattering expressions, and 
we fully appreciated the many nice things 
said. We felt that we had genuinely earned 
a certain amount of praise, and a little personal 
pride was, under the circumstances, quite ex- 
cusable. But the ovation that accompanied 
the Commodore's toast was as nothing com- 
pared to the deafening uproar that greeted 
our fine commander, Captain Colbeck, as he 

221 



THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' 

rose to respond. It was a wonderful recep- 
tion, and we felt prouder than ever. It was 
with difficulty that he could commence, so 
persistent was the cheering. At last he was 
given a chance, and made a happy speech, 
skilfully worked up to a striking conclusion. 
He stated that he was proud to have com- 
manded the largest yacht of the Club, and to 
have navigated her not only farther south 
than any other yacht, but farther south also 
than any other ship in the world. As the 
Morning, he continued, had sailed under the 
Royal Corinthian Yacht Club's ensign and 
burgee, and had flown them in the South 
Polar Regions, he thought that it was only 
fitting that these now historic flags should 
be returned and presented to the Club. As he 
led up to this last sentence, the actual flags 
referred to were slowly hoisted on two flag- 
poles lashed crosswise behind the Commodore's 
chair. The effect of this was electrifying, 
and the applause was deafening. Men rose 
to their feet, some stood on their chairs, to be 
better heard, perhaps. The accompanying 
waving of arms was distracting, glasses clinked, 
programmes were hurled into the air. Who 

222 



A WEDDING PARTY 

said that Englishmen were cold and reserved ? 
They were absolutely carried away in their 
excited enthusiasm. The hoarse cheering 
gradually evolved itself into the usual musical 
honours, and culminated in three of the most 
rousing cheers I have ever heard. It was the 
greatest reception we could possibly have had, 
and my blood tingles still when I think of that 
memorable night. 

About the middle of December we met 
for the last time. This was at our captain's 
wedding in Manchester. We foregathered at 
the same hotel on the eve of the marriage, 
and made merry until late into the night. 
But mixed feelings predominated. We knew 
that this was the end of our companionship. 

The ceremony was, as usual, a combina- 
tion of gravity and gaiety. While the organ 
was playing appropriate wedding music, and 
the bridegroom and best man were standing 
gravely awaiting the bride, the suspense was 
broken by the original Morrison. Our party 
were in a pew together, and he suddenly 
leaned over, and, nodding towards the captain, 
he remarked in a stage whisper : * I'll bet 
he'd sooner be in a south-cast gale ! ' The 
223 



THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING* 

reception held at the hotel was gay, and after 
the customary speeches were over we charged 
our glasses once more. In a quiet corner of 
the room the captain and officers of the 
Morning then impressively bade each other 
farewell, and in silence drank for the last 
time together. 



THE END. 



AT THE BALLANTYMB PRESS 

PXIRTBD BT SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE AND CO. LTB. 

COLCHBSTER. LONDON AND ETON 



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